Started removing the transmission on the white '76 today and got stymied by a stripped cone screw. The front one was fine...but the screw at the rear of the car looked bad before I even started.

My search has yielded several options:
1. Use an easy out
2. Find the next size up allen head or torx bit and hammer it in. I tried that...didn't work
3. Use JB Weld and "weld in" an allen head or torx bit
4. MIG weld something on the screw (not an option..I don't have a welder)

Based on the latest and greatest minds, what's the best option these days?

cheap home depot extractor will do the trick. or harbor freight. heat it up. a butane torch for 3 min (one song on radio) or till it sizzles when ya spit on it.

So..just heat up the entire housing?

Knock the bushing out of the way first. Plastic and heat dont go well together

yep, all around the screw. as it's cooling maybe shoot a little pb blaster on the screw threads or around the screw.

Drill it out get a new cone screw.

The bushing is looking pretty rough....

if you bugger up that piece - i have one for you free east coaster : )

Thanks, Jim. I hope it doesn't come to that!

If I screw it up I'll let you know....

Until you have stripped this screw, you aren't really a 914 mech. The extractor works just fine, but be careful with the torch on oily/greasy parts. Good idea to have a fire extinguisher handy. Generally a good idea around the shop anyway.

did this with extract not easy out and worked fine with no heat

+1 for heat and an extractor to remove stripped cone screws. This process worked flawlessly when new shift rod bushings were installed in Yellow last year. The PO used Loctite to install the cone screws, and the rest is history.

i stripped one before. i used a drill bit, just a little bigger, drilled it, then hammered in an allen wrench.

use the extractor no heat required

I don't agree. Many times Loctite has been used. Heat will break it down and is necessary. Heat is your friend here

Going out at lunch to Lowes (No HD here). Picking up a bolt extractor set and a MAP kit

Definitely heat it! If you have a high power soldering iron that may be enough to help.

1. Clean off all dirt and grease
2. Spray liberally with PB blaster or Kroil, let soak for as long as possible, re-apply, tap with hammer to help oil penetrate
3. Apply heat

HEAT! Figure it this way: If it needed heat and you did not heat it, then you strip the extractor and it sucks worse. If you heat it and it didnt need it, no biggie.

And you are going to want to replace the plastic bushing anyway, so no biggie if it melts. Cheap and very easy to replace.
Zach

I figured "while I was in there" I would replace all the bushings anyway. Best source? I see pelican has a package for all the bushings from the shifter back.

I've taper ground an allen wrench the next size up and hammered it in and had good luck

Did the shift linkage re-bush with parts from Pelican a couple of years ago. I think their kit includes new cone screws. Several threads on this site for setting linkage at shifter.

I would try heat + easy-out to remove screw.

MAP is MUCH hotter than butane propane cheapo.

Hammered in a Torx Wrench the next size up and it gripped enough to break it free.

Well....No luck. Bolt extractor merely reamed out screw...probably getting close to hitting threads.

Can I pull the assembly this stuff attaches to? looks like two bolts hold it in. Am I missing something? If I do that can I pull the rod out the back? maybe if I could get better access I could get it out or take it to a machine shop for removal.

Yes, you can remove the side shift console. It will dump most of the trans fluid when you do, so it might be a good idea to drain it out first. And get a new O-ring for the console while you're at it. Make sure the transmission is in neutral before you start.

--DD

Thanks, Dave. I think that's my next plan of attack!