I finally got the engine and tranny installed into my 6 conversion. I decided to install the shift rod today and ran into a problem. After securing everything with the shifter and moving it in and out of gear I later noticed a leak. I was so focused on other bits that I didnt see the leak until I went back under the car a few hours later. The tranny ran without issue many years ago...(15 plus years). I did not decide to open up the tranny prior to installing it into my conversion. Probably a mistake in hindsight. I remember changing the oil in about 1000 miles before the car got parked. Anyways...here is a picture of what happened today. I am hoping this can be addressed without lowering the package out of the car now that I finally got in there. Could it be a bad driveshaft seal? If so can it be changed where it sits...Could it have generated this leak as a result of changing gears a few times today after its sat for all these years? I installed the engine and tranny about a week ago and the leak only became visible today...so I'm thinking this isn't a coincidence. Dr Evil...are you out there?

With the axles out it is a very good time to do it. The haynes manual shows how to do it. It could be that when you last cleaned the transmission, water got between the seal and drive hub, rusted and when you turned the hubs it tore the seal?? Input OK??

Good news/bad news...

1st read throgh Dr. Evils notes, I think he addresses this.

If not, when was the Tranny fluid changed?

Did you transition from one gear oil type to another?

If you changed up to Swepco then you have probably got the typical high viscosity to lower viscosity issue associated. In many cases, no pun intended, your case will begin weeping at all the seals. Especially if the previous gear oil sat for 15 years and thickened. Run it while it's warm for a while and allow the oil to heat up. Then replace/change it out with some less expensive/same viscosity oil. Stay with Dino or Synthetic, but don't mix them up. Warm it up again and let the new oil circulate. Dry the case surface with some pure sawdust or pure clay cat litter so you can see the drainage better. Sit overnight, check after warming up again. Sometimes the diff seals will get some pliability back. If she's still leaking, pull the tranny after you drain her and order all the diff seals, diff bearings, cone seals, etc... this is the downside...

Once you establish that the older seals are dried and deformed and leak, it's much better to replace all the seals with the tranny out and not chance a $1000 rebuild by letting things run adequitly. Just breath deep, get some new seals and fresh swepco or a similar grade oil to fill it up next time.

You just saved yourself $1000 and spent less than $200 if everything goes back right and breaks in appropriately.

Good Luck

Thanks for the responses so far. Let me clarify...I haven't changed the oil since it was last changed over 15 years ago. The car sat all this time and the tranny was out of it sitting on the garage floor.

Run clean oil through her and dissassemble her for maintenance.

$100 in seals and orings.

Do it to it...

Or bring it to me and I'll use Dr.'s Evil's bible and restore her.

I can arrange a tranny swap with your's if preferred. Stainless hardware on the return trip on the new one. Any change in the basic gearing would need to be swapped over as I stock no LS Diffs or race paired gearing.

Let me know,

Dave

Thats an easy one

Replace the seals with the box in place. Since the axles are not in the way, you have an easy go of it. The CV flanges are only held on by a single 19mm bolt that is not supposed to be tq to high. Place a drift in one of the bolt holes so that it rests on a rib and stops the flange from turning. Remove the 19mm bolt. Pull the flange out. Use a hooked seal puller to pull the seal out. Lube new seal with vasoline or the like on the out side. Pound it in flush with the ridge on the seal bore. Install flanges in reverse. Enjoy

I likely have some of these seals out of kits if you need them.

A word of caution, you may need to replace the front seal as well which will require the tranz to be dropped, but changing it is not that hard. You dont need a rebuild unless the box is shifting poorly (which you may discover once all is installed ).

That is good news. I will order and replace the seals...They're pretty in expensive on Pelican. (I'm sure the seals you have will come in handy when you're doing a rebuild on site with someone). The front seal follows a similiar procedure for r/r? Thanks so much for chiming in

Click to view attachmentDr Evil, Just want to be sure I am installing the CV flange seal correctly. When you say the seal rides flush with the ridge on the seal bore...does that look like the seal in this pic?

Um, you've had moisture infiltration as well. That leaking seal or the speado seals can be the culprits.

Dr. Evil is holding a clinic in Virginia in a few that would be real good experience if you can wait.

No, it's not considered a carry-on item with the airlines.

The good Dr. also has a way to ship it to the event as well. PM him separately for details if interested.

Ok..I replaced the pic posted with a new one that actually shows my tranny and seal. Does it show the seal installed correctly? Just want to make sure I have it resting in there the right way.

The seal looks like it may be a bit farther in than I recommended, but if it is not interfering with anything, and not far past the little shoulder at the edge of the bore, run it and have fun

Ok split the engine and tranny to inspect/replace the driveshaft seal. The seal is green in color and is still pliable. It has been in place since the mid eighties...at least...The replacement seals of today appear to be sligthly larger front facing material. The ID is the same. I guess its best to just go ahead and replace even though the original appears to be in good shape? the first photo shows the original seal in place. The second shows the new seal slipped over the shaft. You can see the difference between the two.

Old style has a shoulder around the outer dia. It is OLD. Replace it.

Will do Dr! Thx

dont forget to polish the rotating surface that the seal touches. a schotch brite pad works well. polish in a radial motion. when things sit for a long time, these seal surfaces get gunk or oxidation that prevents proper seal. seal installation depth will change where it rubs on the mating part.

since the trans is out i would change all seals. diff cover o ring...

Thanks for the heads up Sean!

Man...the driveshaft seal is in one helluva precarious location to remove. As I mentioned before the seal is still very pliable. I am concerned that I'm gonna F-up the surface tryin to get this bad boy out. What tools and method do you use to remove? Sorry for being such a pain in the -ss about this. The CV flange seals were easy to work with...this one is a prick.

Seal puller, available at most places.

I just read this one seems to get better Click to view attachmentreviews on Harbour Freight.

I was successful removing and reintstalling the CV flange seals...However, the driveshaft seal is kicking my ass. The seal pictured below must be the original as it has a flap shoulder on the top. The replacement seal is black and is in the second picture below. The third pic shows the original seal after I was able to start stripping it out. The fourth shows the what it looks like after doing all I could to remove it with various tools ie. hook picks and flat screwdrivers (seal puller double ear type I bought at Harbour Freight) is too large to use for the driveshaft seal..it did work on the CV flange seals. The rubber material came out in pieces..some small some larger. The original seal has a metal interior circumference that has rubber seal material on either side of the metal. The new seal doesnt appear to have a metal interior...it's just all rubber. I need advice on how to get what is left out. There must be a special Porsche tool to do this....?? Otherwise the only other way seems to be a tear down of the tranny...boy I hope it doesn't require that. I am also concerned about where any of the rubber pieces of the original seal may have fallen behind into the case.

The double hook puller does work, you just have to be brave. Jam that SOB into the hole, along the shaft, grab that metal and lever it out. I can tell by the pristine, unbent lip of the metal that you didnt put enough ass behind it The lip should be all distorted if you have truly failed. Be careful, the crappy HF handle may break. I kept the end and welded it to a piece of steel.

As for the rubber falling inside issue, you can always take the side cover off and clean it out. I can send you a new giant O-ring for the cover if you need.

OK!! I got the little bastard out!! I outsmarted my opponent...applied some leverage, used the HF tools (hook pick and double ear seal puller) a regular screw driver, vise grips and took your advice about jamming the SOB down in there and after working it for a few minutes....pop...it's out. Thanks so much for the help Dr.!! I will take you up on the housing seal if you dont mind. Let me know where to send some dough your way. I will send you a PM with my shipping address

Thats one way to do it Not what I meant, but effective none the less

PM me as I am shipping stuff out soon and can get it in my next load.

Finally got everything back together yesterday! Thanks for the help and parts Dr. Evil. Now just need a buddy to come over and help me reinstall the motor/trans and the 6 conversion project will be back underway.

Thanks for the great post! I am changing the driveshaft seal soon and didn't realize what a bear it could be. Will find that puller and polish the shaft (that sounds bad).

Stephen