Just got off the phone with my mechanic who is trying to get the car to pass emissions. He says the MPC Sensor is bad and he is having trouble locating one. I took a quick look at Pelican and their price is $975 or so. Mechanic suggested going to carburation, but I am leaning on keeping the car original if at all possible.

Help! I would appreciate any and all suggestions and ideas.

Thanks!

buy a used one around here that tests good...
(I have a used one, I could sell for a 2.0)

or get yours rebuilt. I think rebuilts are $250, but don't quote me on that....

brant

I'd stick with the FI, personally. Without changing the cam, you won't get much benefit from switching to carbs. About the MPS, what about is is bad? Does it not hold a vaccuum? Are the coils bad? Or is it just out of adjustment? Depending on whats wrong, there are various ways to fix it. I think SLITS may have a few decent used ones. Geoff Bleyseng also recalibrates them, and he may still have a few good ones. I'm sure they'll chime in. If you could give us more info on whats wrong, it'll be easier to help.

If you haven't read Brad Anders web page yet, take a read. It explains how to test the MPS, and how it works.

Brad Anders

And as being discussed in another thread, if your MPS does turn out to be bad, one alternative is to go with a Megasquirt replacement ECU, which will replace the MPS with a solid state sensor. This may be more DIY than you intend to do, and I'll bet more than your mechanic can handle if he's pushing carbs. Just switching to carbs and doing nothing else will kill your gas mileage (15-20mpg is normal).

I have close to 30 years experience with rebuilt MPS units, from various sources and at various prices. I had a good friend who produced the best ones out there, using a Bosch style test bench, and they were such a hassle he quit doing them in the mid '70s. There have NEVER been any replacement parts available, and no one else uses a bench like he had. Don't waste your money ..................... The Cap'n

if you have a visual test in arizona, you won't be able to pass emissions with carbs at all.

I got one from High performance House for 160.00 with mine for the core. It seem to work fine, but I just got it running last week and with a new engin I wont know how well it works for sometime. I've still not had it above 3K and still tuneing the engin.
Joe

First test your mps with a vacuum pump. Pull 15hg on it and see if it holds, shouldn't leak down more than a few lbs in 5 minutes. If it holds its good and your mechanic needs to look elsewhere for the problem. Lots of mechanics don''t know too much about Djet and just play plug and pray with it. Next he might blame the ECU......

Use Brad Anders site to do some testing yourself to narrow the problem down.
Geoff

I seen Pelican rents a Djet tester. Has anyone ever tried that to diagnos a problem?? Just curious.

greg:
Your signature indicates a you have 1.7. You could try the MPS from the 1.7on the 2.0 (I mentioned this in another thread as well)

tod:
I've used the D-Jet tester from PP. What I recall is that it doesn't really test the MPS or FI trigger points, just the FI brain. Unfortunately, it didn't help diagnose my problem of why does dizzy(X) work beautifully, and dizzy(Y) work so poorly? A varied combination of parts between X and Y didn't reveal much either.

Cloudbuster,

I have the same problem with dizzy X working but after the car warms up Dizzy Y does not work...

I finally am of the mind that is because my dizzy Y is not advancing correctly (somehow)
the funny thing is that my dizzy X is rusty and corroded, and my dizzy Y is spotless, shiny, and looks new.......

brant