UPDATE:

i hope dino forgives me, but i went and tried to continue the adjustment process, and undid all his synchronization. here is the scoop:

plugs: bosch W7CC, or something like that. all looked the same, no real build up, yellowish color on the appendage, black/grey (mostly black) on the base.

plugged the connector hose between the two manifolds. started the car with the linkage loose and the fuel mixture screw out 2.5 turns (per insturctions) RESULT engine idles at 3200, pulls >32 on the synchrometer on the passenger side, <2 on the drivers side. begin turning idle screws and get the to >14 pass. and <14 driver.

still trying to follow the directions and will continue to update in order to solicit helpful advice and therapeutic ridicule.

sorry, dino.

alls I can say is DHO!
Go back to start... and begin the whole process again.

shane, sounds like you are pretty close. recheck all the nuts on the manifolds. back the idle screw off the passenger side. turn the drivers side to get an idle around 1500. use the passenger side ROD to equal the flow. lock all the jam nuts down. is the flow still the same? now turn the idle down with the drivers side for an idle @ 900 to 950 rpm.

kevin

thanks, Kevin. i appreciate the simple approach. i would be so very lost without your synchrometer! after messing about for the next couple days i will post results and solicit more advice. oh, and more abuse.

Can you tell me what kind of synchrometer you are using. I have the 34 ICTs also, and was weary to order one, because the inliet of the 34s is not perfectly round - you know it has that segment where the air jet hole is. I was wondering what synchrometer would fit in the barrel snugly.

On another note, if your llinkage is like mine, I have noticed that hex bar linkage flex alot, and the bushings have alot of play in them. Point being, I don't know if the adjustment can be "perfect", but I have mine decent.

the synchrometer of Kevin's that i am borrowing is the barrel shaped one, not the rubber lid with ball in tube one. and the rubber sleeve fits around the outdside of the carb, so it is pretty cool. the uni-synch or whatever it is called, the rubber lid with the ball in tube would simply sit atop the carb and seal that way.

did you adjust the carbs with the connector tube hooked up, or did you cap it off and adjust the carbs individually? i tried the individual way, and buggered up all of Dino's hard work. we had originally tried with the hose attached.

my apologies to all who are weary of seeing me slog through this process. i do appreciate the helpful hints and tips.

This is one of those things you can only learn by doing... like riding a bike, you can read and ask all you want but until you fall over you won't really know.
So this is a good thing... honest.
Oh yeah, remember when you asked me how long it had been since I drove a 914? it has been a loooooooooooooong time!

well then i am extra glad you got to take mine for a very short spin. i hope you did not act as a vector for whatever it is that is possessing ugmo. i realize that i will only learn about the carbs by doing it. i am, however, impatient for the 40-50 extra horsepower i will get from them...

i know a priest experienced in exorcism, but he is in indiana...

Now hold on... I hope you aren't expecting 40-50 hp gains. Mayber 4-5 is more like it. These are 34 ICTs. Anyway, you asked about the connector between the two carbs. The only connector I have between the two carbs is at the manifolds. That other little one is for vacuum and you just cap that off if you have a non-vacuum distributer like a 009.

yep, capped the little ones off. the big ones at the bottom of the carb attach via a 1/2 inch or so elbow, and equalize between the manifolds. at least that is hat they look like they do. they draw really hard.

so you don't think i'll get 40-50 hp out of these? that was a conservative estimate on my part. i'll still be able to break the tires loose in all gears as i accelerate, right?

34 ICTs are the smallest carbs you can buy for these things. I don't ever remember spinning the tires in anything but first gear - and that was in the rain!

With some very crafty jetting, expect between a 5 to 10 hp gain with those 34's.

If you went with dual Weber 40s or dual-twin 44s (too large for a 1.7 imo) You would experience more horsepower. But even then, the magic is all in the jetting! on a 2.0L 914 engine, the dual-twin 40s or 44s would be pretty nice. The real power in carbs is setting them up properly for their application. If and when you get it dialied in perfectly, you'll be happy. Then it just becomes an issue of keeping them clean and caring for them.

so Shane-san
what is the latest on the Weber front?

The STE Carburetor Flow Meter (BK) fits around the intake perfect. Here's a link to the one I order as they had a good price:

http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=572

that's the one. it does fit around the intake perfectly.

as for your question, dino; i am too busy/occupied trying to find gainful employment to try to adjust carbs . maybe tomorrow...

i can get those syncrometers for 25 bucks all day long. VW place by my house.

heres a pic

CB wants 40 bucks?

Damn dude I wish I would have know about that...I even ate shipping from CA to TX. I called all over Austin and most people didn't even have a clue what I was asking for, typical response was what's a flowmeter?

they have both sizes and the adpter. The bird wants 49.95 so there you go...
If you have dual carbs, you gotta have the tool.

Shane, maybe I can help you out this weekend...

thanks, dino. i'll let you know what our schedule is, bu tit looks like saturday afternoon we have booked, and most of sunday. i'll communicate via email.

can't even imagine trying to balance the carbs without the synchrometer dealie...