Soon they will be packed full of DOT-R rubber pieces again!

Here are some pic's of my mock up of the tank, thermostat, and catch can:

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...along with the return T for changing the oil:

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nice yeamag. i did the same thing with the T fitting it makes oil changes a snap. I'm using the same thermostat also. i chose that one because of all the ports for the sensors. cool project....

btw my plug on my T fitting is male, so i drilled a 1/16 hole in it and safety wire that sucker. you should think about doing the same some how. that would be a shame to lose that cap and roast your new engine....

Good idea! Not sure it has any higher probability of coming undone than ant other fitting, but no need to tempt fate.

your right. piece of mind i guess.

And passenger side is finally done.
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looks good yeamag. those an fittings sure get expensive after you buy a couple dozen of them. right?

...and yet more fittings to be ordered.
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that looks awesome bro. im glad summit has the return policy that they do.... its hard to anticipate every single bend and what degree you need. i end up over ordering and then send back what i dont use. cuz you never know if the bend you need is gonna work until you have it in your hand.....

Got a little bit more done. Been thrashing for a few weeks on a TAG and shifter karts, so I'm a bit behind. Had fun in them at Cal Speedway on Saturday though!

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Really just a matter of making it look good and putting the gas tank in. With any luck I'll start it Sunday!

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...and if anybody has any words of wisdom how to prime all of this I'll take it. Right now I'm just planning on putting 3 quarts in the engine and filling the tank 3/4 of the way and cranking for pressure. After that topping the tank up to 1/2-3/4 and cranking for pressure again. One final top off to make sure i'm above 1/2 way and firing the motor.

Before I drive it I'll probably pop a fitting off the oil cooler and fill it... It's huge.

good luck bro. sounds like a good plan. the only thing i can think of is to fill the remote oil filter and pull the spark plugs. but im sure you already new that...

I've actually read more than once that filling the oil filter makes it harder to prime the system, but I neglected to mention that the initial prime will have the oil filter ***off*** until I see oil squirting out. And yup, plugs are out. I have a giant, deep cell battery that I'll be using to turn her over with initially to save my little "red top".

i thought you were using a remote filter.

Nope. I did remove the bypass and weld it shut in the stock oil cooler mount though.

mine took alot of cranking to get the light to go out. an i pre oiled every thing i could. i think its just the nature of the beast for a dry sump. it sure is a tense few minutes while cranking tho. you will be thinking about every single thing that could go wrong in those few minutes of cranking. LOL then a big sigh of relief when the light goes out.

then its the 20 minute cam break in.

then its hammer time. i swear my rings broke in less than 20 miles....

Aaron,
Did you grease the gears in the pump to help it prime more quickly?

No. I've had bad luck with that in the past with the pump not priming. I think the grease somehow blocked something as when it did finally go I got a big glop out of the oil filter boss.

Per your PM I'll let the return "drain" to the point I get some out my drain (which is close to the case) and then use my Motiv to pressurize the system via the tank. I'll do my best to block the vent and the scavenge line. I might even try to let it sit long enough to see if I can get some oil to come out the oil filter boss.

I think the type of grease used is critical to that method succeeding.
If I'm not mistaken, white lithium grease is recommended.
However, I think all I've ever used is Redline assembly lube inside the pump.

Knowing me I used wheel bearing grease and screwed myself! I think it will prime OK with pressurizing the system.

I like your set up a lot, looks really good. are you cutting out anything behind the cooler?? or is the exit of hot air just right back into atmospheric area between bumper and front clip??

Yes. No cutting of the body.

Very cool, i saw you had a CB dry sump pump, are the aftermarket pumps similar for doing a dry sump set up compared to just adding a front mounted cooler?

Some other pumps require more complex plumbing.
I have a pump made by Europerf in New Jersey which is based on the Melling cast iron pump.
It has a second stage added to the front, machined out of aluminum, and a custom long drive shaft.
The CB pump crosses the outlets, making external oil hose routing more convenient.
Other differences relate to the capacity of each stage of the pump, which is expressed as gear length.
My Europerf pump has longer gears than the CB pump.

Just a quick update. Priming the system was no harder than any other pump. I got fairly quickly 20PSI under the starter alone with the plugs out. Now I need to figure out what is wrong with the ignition...

Drove it in to work yesterday and man did that feel good! Car felt great running it up and down the rpms like a jack ass to help seat the rings. No leaks, great temps, still needs a bit of tuning on the carbs (damn CB linkage is my nemesis) and the timing and valves checked for a second time, but no complaints. Cam (86a) really makes the car want to rev. Glad I put in dual springs! At 6K it feels like it's still building power!

Now for the reassembly of the interior, rocker panels, etc... The car should be at The Festival of Speed on Saturday at some point. Not racing yet, just for fun.

-Aaron

First long distance outing was driving to Cal Speedway on Saturday to the Porsche Festival of Speed. Tons and tons of Porsche's and some good racing. Car ran like a top to and from the event. Only issue I had was low oil pressure at idle (right around 7lbs) when hot (180F). I'm hoping that the root cause is that I still have about a 50% of the total volume oil being Brad Penn Break-In Oil (30wt) as I can only drain about 6-7 quarts out of the 11-12 quarts it holds. If it doesn't improve after the second or third change I'll probably pull the pump and change from a gasket and sealant to just the sealant (Loctite 518) to try and decrease the clearance between the cover and the pump gears.

Good news is the oil cooler works like a charm (never saw more than 180F) and head temps are close to perfect (350F-375F on the freeway at 72mph). I'd like to drop 25F on the heads if I can. I'm planning on testing taking 2 degrees of timing out. I may also up my air correction jets from 180 - 200 to bring the mains on a bit sooner.

Had some minor surgery on my throat last Monday, so it's been nothing but percocet, discovery channel, and apple sauce for the past 10 days or so. Today I did manage to install my used Rennshift!

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I massaged the center console to allow it to work with the new shifter. Now as soon as my replacement dizzy cap comes tomorrow I can test it. Sure feels nice though!

It did make a "squeak" that seemed to be coming from the center tunnel. I found this with my cheap scope.

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I think that's left over from when my clutch tube broke out. It's just past the reinforcement (I think) in the center tunnel; very close to the heater flap lever. What you see is the shift rod running from the upper left toward the center of the picture. It's obviously scraping on that broken mount. So, while I have the welder out to fix the crack in my inner longitudinal I'll cut open the tunnel and fix this up too. I guess the Rennshift must put the shift rod at a slightly different angle than the stock shifter does as I never would have noticed this without changing shifters.

Broke exactly where mine did, alo firewall and front. Prolly worth fixin.