UPDATED 2/25/05

My $500.00 1975 2.0

I will be posting pics of my progress as I clean up this engine and put it in my '71 that currently has the stock 1.7L. Engine was running when it came out of the '75 about 3 years ago. About 10,000 miles on rebuild before it came out of the car, according to PO. No plans at this point to tear it completely down or do anything special (or costly). Just clean it up and replace/repair whatever is necessary.

I welcome in comments/suggestions/opions that anyone wants to throw my way.

Hopefully by next summer my I'll be driving my new toy.

Time to get greasy!

Sean

Looks very complete! And the MPS looks brand new (or at the very least "less dirty" ) I'd scrap and replace all hoses and vacuum lines, including the intake runner boots, just to be on the safe side.

Be careful, it's very easy to say "Well hell, I've got it this far apart...I might as well...", and the next thing you (your wallet) know(s) you're doing a complete rebuild.

I am going to have to try really hard to keep myself from doing that.

Pull all the tin and clean all the crap off the cyilnders and oil cooler.
Take the alternator off and have it tested before the engine is in the car.

Progress from tonight, this thing has been sitting a while that's for sure.

Not Sure what to think about this?

One more-
Can anybody tell me why someone would do this?

Is it an old style starter disable for an alarm system?

dr

Look's like the round fuel pump relay went out and was relaced with a more common relay.

Yep, That's it. Mine went dead on me, had to wire in a jumper to get the fuel pump running. I'm planning on doing a proper fix during the winter down time, but for now, flip the switch and drive!!
:finger2:

Good luck with the 2.0.
I'll be interested in watching your results...

Didn't get much done this weekend but here it is...

Everything has come apart easy so far.

These will be nice once I get them cleaned up.
Anybody have a good way to get these clean.

castrol super cleaner...the purple stuff...can't remember the exact name

Rhodes,

if you can find a set of 73/74 heat exchangers and back date, you will pick up 5hp....

(I know its a "while your there, kinda thing"

brant

What do you mean by "back date"

Will the 73/74 fit without any mods?

What causes it to have more hp?

Thanks I appreciate the input.

If you can't find the set he is talking about, use the entire system off your 1.7. It will flow better than the smog setup. The '75-"76 set up was a two cylinder into one pipe and is restrictive, especially when combined with the cat converter.

It appears that the air injection holes in the heads are already plugged off, so the PO must have removed the smog pump and associated tubing already.

You will like the 2.0

Oven cleaner worked great on my heat exchangers (WEAR GLOVES!...duh). Let it set on there per instructions, and scrub them with a scotchbrite pad. A wire brush will work also, but you have to be very careful not to flip the oven cleaner on you while you're scrubbing.

And "while you've got it apart this far" take a large bastard file and "square" the tops of the exhaust inlets. It'll make for a better seal when re-installed.

Sean,

(sorry for not paying attention and using your name correctly before)

The 75/76 style is pretty restrictive..

I meant by back dating that yes, you can bolt up the complete early style system.... You can find SSI's or even stock 2.0 stuff will work well.

I think you will need the all the bits...
- a pair of Heat exchangers
- I think the early style muffler (or bursch or any
aftermarket for an early style 2.0)
- an early style 2.0 muffler bracket (or you can make your
own)
- the muffler gaskets for the early style system.

brant

If I can use the system off of my 1.7L I will do that for now. Will it bolt on like it is?

I was definitely going to go with a different muffler set up but if I can use the 1.7 then I will do that.

Yes the injection holes were plugged, smog pump was taken off at some point.

Another question - the oil filter is touching were the heat exchanger bolts to the exhaust coming out of the passanger side head. Is this normal? Maybe the filter is larger than it should be. Doesn't look like anything is tweaked.

yup, it'll bolt on directly.

All of it will bolt right up no problems, but you must use the exhaust hanger from the 1.7.

The bolts shouldn't touch and will cause a transfer of heat to the filter - get the correct filter for it.

It would be easy to upgrade later, after the motor was in the car and running...

The 1.7 exhause also gives up 5hp or so to the early 2.0 stuff.....

It sounds like the 1.7 is better than the late 2.0 (I honestly don't know).... but down the road you may want to upgrade the the early 2.0 and get those 5free hp)

brant

Don't forget the two tin pieces that attach to the motor case and the heat exchangers. The two pieces that you can see when you look under your car and up at your engine.

Funny you should mention the tin, while dismantling there was only one peice of tin underneath on the drivers side going from the engine to the heat exchanges.
Should there be one on the passenger side as well?

Yes there should be one on each side. The later style ones ('75-'76) do not work if you are planning on back-dating your exhaust system. Also, the tail-shifter tin for the drivers side is different than the side-shifters tin.

Starting to look a little better.

What can I do about those cylinders?

Little bit of surface rust.

I don't think that I am going to break the engine down is there anything that I can spray on them like it sits now?

Thanks for checking out my post!
Time for one of these

I'll probably get "smacked down" by the other members for this , but as bad as the rust looks aesthetically, it probably helps the cooling some. Seems to me that the rust would increase the surface area, and generate a small amout of turbulance in the airflow across the cylinders. I'd hit them a little with a wire brush to knock the big stuff off, and leave it at that. You could try Naval Jelly on them, but I'm not sure what adverse effects, if any, it'll have on the aluminum heads and block. Then there's Oxisolv and the like which is probably a little less harsh:

http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemTyp...GORY&itemID=380

"While you've got it this far apart", you might as well pull the oil cooler, give it a thorough cleaning, and replace the seals. Much easier to replace them now, than to find out after you've got the engine installed that they've developed a leak.

Thanks for the advice Kevin. I was just thinking about that last night. Debating whether I was going to pull the oil cooler or not. You just pushed me in the rigth direction.

Sean, I hate to drag you down into my little "while you've got it this far apart" hell , but here's another "simple" suggestion, replace the push rod tube seals. Extremely easy to do while the engine is sitting all exposed like yours is right now. Pop the valve covers, remove the two rocker shaft retainer nuts (do it one side at a time so there's no issues on how everything goes in there), pull out the push rods noting from which valve they came from, give the tubes a twist and pull them out through the head. The Vitron push rod tube seals are said to be the best, and are cheap insurance against getting oil all over your nice clean HE's again. There was an excellent thread here recently about what, if any, sealants/adhesives to use, and where to use them. If I can find it, I'll repost a copy of it here, or you could email Jake Raby at 'aircooled.net'. Back to the valves. After you've reinstalled your tubes with the new seals, reinsert the push rods back into their original position/location and reinstall the rocker assy. loosely. Give each rod a wiggle to ensure that they've seated back into the center of the lifter/tappet, retorque the retainer nuts to spec. (10 ft. lbs according to Haynes) and re-adjust the valve clearances. Repeat for the other side, and install fresh valve cover gaskets. It sounds like a lot, but it shouldn't take more than 30-45 mins.

If that sounds like too much , at the VERY least adjust your valves now, you'll be glad you did!

Did someone already mention the main seal? Might as well replace that to right? It never ends! Come on man, just tear the whole thing appart! If you are anything like most of us, you will have your engine done by the time your children have children.

Crap! How could I forget the main seal! Which means you'll have to remove the flywheel and clutch assy. to replace it. Might as well resurface the flywheel and check/replace any/all worn clutch components, replace the input shaft seal on the tranny. And "while you've got it this far apart"...

you know, you coulf get some nikkies and 103s!

Muuuuuhahhaaa! Just pick up the wrench Sean, a few small turns and you will be in disassembly Hell!

Oh yeah, while your in there, don't forget to strengthen the case, buy a new crank/rods etc. Hey, might as well since you've gone this far right?

You guys ar killin' me LOL. Seriously thank you far all the input/advice. I think that I will definitely do the push-rod tube seals. I have been going back and forth on the clutch assy/flywheel/main bearing, Since I have it out and sitting there on the garage floor I might as well. I mean how stupid would I feel if I got it in the car and the clutch went out, or the main seal started to leak.

Of course there is plenty that I could do... time is not an issue but $ is. Anybody in Oregon need a home loan? One good loan fee and I could go crazy on this thing.

Keep the suggestions coming.

The initial stages of "Dirk Wright's Disease"

Welcome to the club Sean -

Seriously, anything you can fix/replace, within budget of course, at this stage of disassembly will save you a lot of time and aggrevation down the road.


Here's a link to the post I mentioned earlier. 'Silver2.0' (4th reply down) gives his "detail" recipe for a leak free engine. He recommends "Nada" on the tube seals.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...5774&hl=sealant

but, while you've got the engine tin and manifolds off, now is a good time to prime and paint them


P.S. - Your console is finally boxed and ready to send, but like a dumb-ass, I didn't take any pics of where all of the brackets reattach. I'll email you some high quality pics of the correct bracket locations with my "Blurrmaster 5000 Digital Camera" as I install my recovered one.

Not much work tonight, shopping night at the farmers market, gotta get those fresh fruits and veggies, as well as some fresh fish.

I'm getting OT here

I did clean up the tin, mostly in pretty good shape but I think that I will paint it "while it's off" I'll spare you the pics this time.

Still trying to decide if I am going to pull the clutch/flywheel. I am going to talk to the previous owner and try to find out exactly what was done "10,000 miles ago"

Haven't been able to work on the 914 for a while but in honor of today I tried to get something done. Just a little painting and clean-up of the fan housing. It's not powder coating but it does look better than it was. As soon as I get some parts in the mail I can do a little work to the engine.

Until then cheers!

sean, looks sweet,

how did you polish the blower housing?

dr

Sean,

The polished fan shroud looks nice, but you probably need to clear coat it to keep the finish. On the Shop Talk Type 4 Forum one of the guys (Griznant with the pretty T4 912) polished his and said it oxidized quickly and that it neeed clear coat or paint.

Good luck with your new engine!

i'll spend a bit more of your money. think about new front engine mounts. there is no better time to do the renew. a new cork gasket for the oil fill tower. gaskets for the intakes to the heads. check the cable for the air cooling control. it never ends.

kevin

Sean, those front engine mounts, I have had a new set sitting around forever, also you will need intake gaskets for the manifold. I have those sitting around as well. PM me and you can have them for a "song". FYI - you should be getting your other stuff I would think today?

Looking great! I love the fan shroud!

Thanks for all the great replies.

Oh yes the fan shroud, I wasn't really planning to do that but I just wanted to see what a a wire wheel would do. Once I got started I couldn't stop. It turned out really nice. I am trying to figure out what kind of clear coat to put on because yes I'm sure it will oxidize quickly. Too bad you won't be able to see much of it, It would have looked nice in the '74 VW Bus I once had, oh well I will know how cool it looks.

More progress this week, I hope.

Nothing to show for engine work but I was poking around the car a bit and found a little rust. It's mostly the jack point but definitely needs to be dealt with.

Yes it has been a while since I have done anything to this engine, having to much fun getting the other engine running and actually driving the car a bit. Now that I have a taste I want to pull that engine and stick this one in.

So I pulled the heads to see how things looked under there. Not sure how much work I will do, money is a big factor.

Here are some pics.

That's why your car is idling funny cold! The damned heads are off!




Miles

Funny Miles, that would have an effect wouldn't it.

A couple more pics to come but i keep getting a fatal error, damn dial-up

Take Miles advice and send it to his engine builder

matching cylinders

Running a tad rich. What is the numbers on the MPS and the ECU? Test the MPS with a vacuum tester to see if it holds a 15hg for 5 minutes.


Geoff