after installing my engine, everything works fine, Started it and it started right up. I did't start it for about 3 days working on other things like cv's and replaced the gasket on valve cover. I decided to start it today and set the timing, and it starts and cuts right off, in about 15 seconds. I kept cranking, the more i crank the more it looks like it will not start. check tdc on and dizzy, It looks right. check all plugs.


The only thing i remember playing with was the air mixture screw on the trottle. as it ewas runnoing a few days ago to adjust rpm.

after a few adjustments here and there, it starts on the first crank then cuts off, when i keep tryng it feels like it wants to start but not enough fire.

I check fuel, i have plenty. I removed the delivery fuel line on the rail, there is plenty coming out. fuel pump runs as it should ,when key is turned on and at cranking. I don't know what else,

Check your fuel pressure. If its too high it will run for a bit before it kicks out. My car did the same thing i opened up the pressure regulator and it ran like a champ after.

Do you have any instruction on how to adjust the fuel pressure if that is the case?

Yeah there should be a bolt sticking out of the regulator, just back it out slightly until it relieves the pressure enough for the motor to run. If you happen to have a fuel pressure gauge the car runs anywhere from 28-32psi if im remembering correctly

Make sure your fuel pump relay is working correctly and check that the socket is clean.

I put a test light on the fuel pump positive wire and it is shown to be working. the lights comes on when i turn the key, then goes off, then comes back on steady as I crank. that makes me believe that the relay is working correctly.. Correct me if i am wrong!

I will be getting a fuel pressure gauge today.

Get the FI working. I think once you switch to carbs you will be disappointed (assuming the engine was not rebuilt for carbs).

The screw on the throttle body only affects the idle RPM, not the mixture.

--DD

I just tested the fuel pressure and it is at 32 . is that 2 pounds too much?

would 2 extra makes that much difference?

If you have points, did you adjust them? It's not hard to set the gap wrong.
And are you sure the time is set correctly? On my car, the red timing mark was not 27 degrees from TDC as the Haynes manual states, (IIRC) but was really the TDC mark. You can verify your TDS by removing the #1 spark plug and feeling for compression.

The points were set as well as the timing, and thee fine was running after. I didn't make any changes. 

You are correct, the timing is set at the mark which is not 27 degrees.  Again the motor started with these settings and idled for over 10 minutes . 

As far as I understand it is fine to set the timing like that, then use a timing light to set it at 27 deg with a timing light at 3500 rpm. Is that correct?

Now I'm confused Paul. Are you saying the timing is set at TDC and not at 27btdc?

Curt,
Yes , it is  at tdc when cylinder one is at the mark on the dizzy. Should It be 27 btdc? 

Yes, your firing 27 degrees late. no wonder it runs like crap. Remove both distributor vacuum lines and plug them. open throttle to around 3200 rpms (with timing light attached). You will see a web on the fan that is about 3/4"" thick. the notch on the housing should be between that large web and the narrow fin just to the passenger side of it. Hope that makes sense. if not I'll shoot a pic for you.

It's not running at all right now , just starts sometimes and cuts right off, need to get it running before setting the  btdc .  

you could always just rotate the dizzy counter clock-wise a little till she starts and stay running just to verify. This would advance the timing to get her running....but finding the mark that Curt was talking about should be easy enough. once found, I usually take a little nail polish and mark the back of the impeller to make the job easier.....

If you know where TDC is, Pelican Part's website has a technical article that you can print and cut out a template to measure where 27 degrees is.

Ray beat me to it and he is correct.

Ok I will manually set it at 27btdc and see what happened . I already marked it using the pelican template and was waiting to set it with the light. What about the 32 lbs fuel  pressure, should I leave that alone, or set it to the specs? 

How are you manually setting it to 27 , and can you tell me where the nut on the end of the vacuum can is in relation to the wire bale on the oil filler?

Well well well, I went over, re secured and replaced all vacuum lines, I adjusted the fuel pressure to 29 that still did not do it.

Then I remove spark plugs # 3 and 4, noticed that they were all wet with fuel, cranked and tested for spark as Curt instructed me and there was no spark.

I opened the dist, and did a visual inspection on the points by putting the car in 5th gear, have my son spin the wheel. I noticed that the points was touching on both the raised and the flat part of the lobe as it spins, I loosened it, and adjusted to .016.


and this where I say F$&^^%$ carbs. I adjusted my timing with the light to 27 bdtc and I am running smooth.

I must tell you, as Curt was on the phone with me he says " let's get this car running" at that point I just knew that we were gonna have a running motor by the end of the day.

Thanks to all of you for your efforts and dedications to make this site a great community.


Here I come Hershey

Outstanding! Persistence always wears down resistance. You just needed a push in the right direction and took it from there. Bravo Paul.

Great!
Curt, you da man!!

Tom

Nice work. Now I hope the same for broomhandle (another member having some similar struggles).

This is why we switch to electronic points as the little arm on the points wears and results in the points being closed all the time. Poor if running at all results.
toss em and get a new set and use lube.

This happens to me a lot. I complete an unfamiliar or challenging procedure on the car, and it doesn't work. Then I go back to find the totally familiar step that I forgot or overlooked, adjust, and it works! Thanks for the reminder, I need it.

Way to go, Paul.

Glad you got it up and running! (Also glad I finally got a diagnosis right!)

I've been guilty of forgeting to tighten the screw tight after setting the dwell and finally getting it right on the fourth try. I want it perfect. It just runs better.

C. After our earlier discussion on gapping points, I went back in and found mine had dropped to 44. Bumped it up to 47 and it runs better.