Trying to pull the flywheel and noticed that the bolts seemed to have been ground down. Would someone do this so the flywheel could be surfaced beyond minimum specs. and the clutch would still clear. Also, what are the bolts made of? Looks like brass.

ayup, that's exactly what it is ...

Andy

The 4 spring discs hit the bolt heads after machining the flywheel down to a certain point. This is one of the reasons why we dont sell 4 spring discs anymore.


B

Great. Now the problem is getting them out. There is only about 1/4 inch to grab on to. Probably end up grinding them off.

I'm betting you will end up replacing that flywheel/disc/pp.


B

Cold steel chisel and BFH to get them turning.

I'm gonna try that first and see what happens. And I will be replacing everything.

I was looking at Pelican for replacement flywheel bolts and the picture shows them as round hex bolts. Mine are regular bolts. Is it a bad pic. or a replacement?

HOOORAY!! Got the bolts out and flywhell off. Problem is now that I think I have too much play in the crank. Can anyone tell me how much you should be able to slide the crank in and out. It looks to be moving about 1/8th of an inch. Too much?

End play is what you are asking about - 0.003 - 0.005" (0.07 - 0.13 mm) according to Tom Wison's Book.

Gotta torque the flywheel back on , WITH the shims, in order to check the end play. The Cap'n

Is end play adjusted with flywheel shims alone or are there internal adjustments (bearings, etc.)?

Just the shims. Of course, if the bearing is moving in the case, it's a whole different thing. Pretty uncommon in T4 motors, though ............. The Cap'n

I really appreciate the info. on this stuff. Being my first time at this I get nervous when delving into unfamiliar territory. You guys are great.

Cap'n - don't you torque the flywheel without shims and measure endplay with a dial indicator to determine the thickness of shims to add?