Here is what I lose:
Tach, fuel level, oil temp gauge, volt meter. Then the red alt. Light is on, but car runssmoother, it was not right before that.


This is a 75 2.0. D-jet new coil not long
ago, I have a hotspark module, no issues with it seems to be fine.. Had been running really good.
All lights stay on except I think the brake light, that could be the culprit? . I will recheck that. What else is on this circuit?
I thought tomorrow I would disconnet the fuel level sender, maybe that is the cause?

Check to see if your AAR wire is shorting to ground.

My 5th from the right keeps blowing but I have a 75 with a 3.0L-6 and everything else seems to be working?

My short was in the rear trunk tail lights - brake if I recall correctly.
Hope it helps

It will get figured out but so far it is eluding me!

if the bulbs were all out and switched back in wrong this will happen... ask me how I know

thanks, Jeff I will check that out. had not thought of it - i have not put in the ignition harness i got from you almost 2 months ago,. that might be the deal.



I actually had these short out 2 years ago, had to re-splice and had not been a problem, i looked there, found one of the spades came loose , put it back together, but its still tripping, but i will look closer at the brake lines.

also thought maybe the fuel gauge might be the issue or a wire grounding out behind the gauges, i need to take a look there too, i will have time tonight. i thought about doing this trial an error, disconnect the aar. see if that stops it, then the fuel gauge, . i wish the book showed EVERYTHING that runs on one circuit. crazy how on the fuse panal it shows like 3 things and there are 10, LOL

Say-again, please. "Car runs better when fuse is blown," i.e., when the short circuit is no longer grounded?

i seems like that, but it could be because it was warming up and it tends to be a little rough upon cold start up. i was suspecting my CHT, even though it was a new one put in this winter, or could be the AAR, as it seemed that maybe that new AAR i put in this last winter may not be opening up all the way, so that could do it, plus a short on that would keep that from happneing, causing both issues, fuse and bad start up.

hm. , ----

The aar fuse will interupt the fuel pump, so I doubt thats the problem. Don't know if its on that circuit (too lazy to look it uo right now) but check the wires for the reverse lights at the trans. If they fall on the exhaust or axle it will cause an intermittant short.

my reverse lights do not work- never have since ive had the car, so i am assuming the switch is bad, but i have not tried to figure it out, - might be time to do that i guess

The bullet type connectors on the wires at the switch are notorious for falling out. Sometimes the switch can be repaired with a minor adjustment.

Ok, just checked. The reverse lights are on that circuit along with the tail lights and turn signals.

FYI That is supposed to be the way it works, but this year I've seen three instances where the AAR wire grounded without blowing the regulator board fuse. Mine was one of those instances, and it fried my ignition harness including the back up light, tach, oil pressure and FP circuits.

Curt nailed it when he repeated all the quotes: The portion of the WH that affects #9 fuse seems to have some issues on this car. Dr. Phil's, if I were you, I'd install that ignition harness you got from Jeff, check out your back-up light, and run a little continuity testing on the usual suspects ID'd in this thread. I bet you'll solve the fuse problem between one of those.

thanks for the advice, - since i was going to be pulling the engine and transmission in a week or so anyway- going to the tranny clinic next month and having some jackpoint rust repair done at the same time, i'm just going to pull this thing, - i'm having all the tin powdercoated too, so while it is all out and apart, i will put the new harness on- then i will have new FI and injection harnesses, i will put in all new ground straps, etc. and check that reverse switch., from there i will have to wait till it all goes back together and gets put back in the car, - i also have a new fuse panel upgrade coming from egmann- so i was going to do this as well.

tonight i will check the AAR and couple other things . i just need to drive it to the shop so i can start pulling it this week.

i will keep you posted, and again thanks for the advice!!!!
-

Keep us updated please?

Fuse #9 has nothing to do with the AAR.
AAR is fused off of the rear fuse on the relay panel AND at 25 amps is fused too high. I use an 8 amp for mine as I don't have the heater blower hooked up and no rear window defrost. The wire for the AAR is only good for about 20 amps before becoming so hot it melts surrounding wires, so if you fuse that one at 25 and and your AAR shorts out partially, it can fry the AAR wire and surrounding wires. If you do have the heater blower hooked up, using a 16 amp fuse will be good, but carry a back-up. An alternative is to put an inline fuse at the junction where the AAR wire hooks up to your harness wire and fuse it a 5 amps. Be a crying shame to fry that brand new ignition harness!
Tom

Tom, can you rule it out? True, AAR circuit is not fused at the front, but some of the other components suppled by the ignition harness are. The wires supplying AAR and those components are adjacent, and if they start melting.... Since #9 is 7.5A (I think?) it could (not saying it's likely) blow first in the event of a more massive failure within the harness sheath.

Stuart,
You are right! The tach and oil sensor wire are in that harness and if the AAR wire has melted previously, causing damage to those wires, that could be causing the #9 fuse to blow. Of course by that point I would have expected some report of smoke and bad smell.
Tom

All these replies and NOT ONE person suggested looking at the wiring diagram? Talk about USELESS information ........................

The Cap'n

Is the Cap'n feeling particularly crusty today?

KC, If I could read a WD I wouldn't need to ask you so many questions.

"Particularly crusty"? If you wouldn't mind taking the time, please point out ONE relevant response, other than mine. One.

The Cap'n

He asked a question. We gave him some "possible" answers. They may not be the right answers, but we won't know that till he finds the problem and fixes it, and they do point him in a direction. I think most of them were "relevant". they addressed the problem at hand. Maybe he doesn't know how to read a schematic. not everyone does, and I think its kinda presumptuous to assume so. You see? thats my opinion, and I think yours stinks too!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Good day!

Sorry to offend, but I try only to opine on things I've experienced. "Relevant" is a tricky word. It usually means "related to," or in legal jargon, something that is "offered to prove the matter asserted." Phillip's already said he's gonna pull his motor and install a new harness before tying to solve his fuse problem, so in this thread there's nothing left to prove; therefore, I admit that nothing I've posted is relevant to Phillip's problem. Feel better?

well i am not much good at following the wiring diagrams, i suppose if i had a better understanding of them it would help greatly. but i figured someone here with more experience would probably know off the top of their heads a couple quick checks ,.
i have a tech tips book and will dig in and see if i can gain some knowledge and understanding of the 914 wiring, but in the time i spend on trying to figure that out, i can trouble shoot several things and rule them out. - but i do believe that in the long run, for the future it is better to gain that understanding and that means digging in and learning something i dont know- wiring diagrams.

and that is how i have learned so much about the d-jet system in the past 2 years, doing just that.
so if you can point me in the right direction regarding the wiring diagrams and how to decifer them that would be much appreciated!!
Thanks.

Having and reading diagrams and flow charts are a definate advatage. They can be found in the FSM, as well as the pelican website, and the aftermatket shop manuals (haynes and the like).

Hell freezing over is a possible cause, too, but it's just as far fetched as some of the answers and discussions here. That fuse covers the stop lights, back up lights, and the oil temp gauge. Says so right in the wiring diagram (Current flow diagram). No AAR, no ignition, no fuel pump relay, no coil, and no no.

Power at the top, ground at the bottom, clearly marked components, colored wires, and a chart over on both ends that tells you what each item is. A short to ground at the B/U light switch, the brake light switch, or at one of the bulbs would be my guess, but what do I know. I sure wouldn't look at the AAR.

The Cap'n

Might be putting my head on Krusty's chopping block, but here goes:

A lot of wires go thru #9 so it is a common problem with a lot of possibilities. Try this: rig up an inline fuse and ammeter across #9 terminals. Turn key to "on" and operate controls one-by-one (turn left, turn right, tap brakes, turn on park lights, etc). If you have a constant short you should be able to isolate the problem circuit. If you have a random short, good luck!

In my case it was a short on the emergency lights switch. A huge pile of wires merge there. The rubber insulators on them are likely in bad shape and an opprotunity for mayhem.

Looks like two relevant post to me, and you just agreed to both. Maybe you should completely read ALL the post?

Sorry to interupt.

I think I may have identified the culprit. I believe it is the fan which is on #9. So when the fan was turned on, new the fuse. Turned it off, fuse fine.

Neither fan is fused by fuse #9, unless the PO changed something. Please look further for why fuse #9 is blowing.
Fresh air fan is in front trunk and fused by fuse #8, hot air fan in engine comp is fused by rear fuse on relay board - I believe it is fuse #13 on wiring diagrams.
Tom

I know that the fresh air fan is supposed to be on #8 but when I turn the fresh air fan to the on position it blows the fuse #9.
Why I don't know why yet.

I just disconected the two wires at my wiper motor that lead to the fresh air fan blower motor and now everything works and my fuse does not blow so the motor for the fan must be the problem!

Mine was on the 5th fuse from the right!

PS: It was the red wire with the black stripe with the red wire with the white stripe piggy backing from the wiper motor!