QUOTE(Tom_T @ Apr 2 2012, 11:25 AM)
When I did a rolling resto on my 73 2L in April/May 1980, the body shop used a similar aluminized-poly body filler to patch some rust areas on the area below the sails - instead of the lead method or welded steel patch that I'd requested & paid for.
Those rust areas started bubbling back within a couple of years!
While their compounds may have improved in the past 32 years, IMHO it's still better to do the welded sheet metal patch method (nobody does Leading anymore due to toxicity, etc. - although Porsche Classics in Germany still does leaded seam seals on their in-house resto's.).
As far as use for body filler to smooth areas, maybe ScottyB, McMarak, Rick 918S, etc. who are the bodywork guru's can speak to that usage direct to metal.
I'd still be concerned that the filler on metal then primed over it, might be prone to holding moisture
under your primer/sealer rust protection coat. That aluminum filler has to have some polymer (plastic) matrix material to hold the aluminum particles & stick it to the sheet metal, and those polymers can absorb & hold some water content.
And in Hawthorne - being close to the beach - you
do have moist salt-rich sea air coming in daily!
Tom,
I had the same problem with a $5,000 paint job.
Maybe it takes $10,000
I have cut out all the rust. Even with no rust, Prep must be 90% of it.
It's hard to tell from photos of other peoples work.
In my photo I did the patch of the wart hole then the flare.
On this fender, after tapping out filler, I checked just how deep the deepest spot was and got only about .003 in. That's out of the photo but I may get the same if I do another sweep.
On a back fender that I will do more work to, I found it to be .015 deep. I am not happy with that.
I am finding it easier to tap it out with the filler than with out.
This is a very fine filler so the question would be limited to maybe .005 ~ .010 in.
Edit: I guess your point is, any direct to metal body filler regardless of thickness may promote rust.