Well I'm out. It seems like you've already checked everything else I would check. My only other advice is double and triple check everything. Hopefully you will figure it out soon.

Already Double and Triple checked...

It doesn't make sense.

IIRC you can circumvent the dual relay by grounding III at the 4 wire connector on the rear of the relay board. The schematic at shows the grounding will enable the fuel pump relay ( unused on the L-Jet ) to power the FP. The middle two relay would have to be in place ( Power and FP)

A fuel pressure gauge is a huge assist when trying to figure out whether the dual relay/fuel pump are working.

See: http://www.pelicanparts.com/914/parts/Elec...lectric_73E.jpg

Need a L jet manual?
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0Bzy-cXUDftd...en_US&pli=1

Mike....I had this identical problem with my 75 1.8 L jet. I kept overlooking the head temp sensor because it was "NEW" finally after expiring all other means, I checked it with an OHM meter it's resistance was so high it was as good as open. I unplugged it and connected a jumper wire to the wire going to the ECU (not the one going to the temp sensor) then attached the other jumper wire end to battery neg. (essentially the same as telling the ECU the engine was warm) Got in the car and started it right up. Later I replaced the "new" temp sensor with a good new one you can also check your by connecting your meter to the sensor lead and ground you should have less than 3000 ohms when cold.

Fuel rail pressure for L-Jet should be 38 - 40 psi

Check the resistance on the ECU plug between pin 13 and pin 17. This is the temp sensor.

680F (2k – 3k) Ω
140F (7.5k – 12k) Ω
1760F (250 – 400) Ω

There is Ljet tech data out on the web, and I can't find it anymore. It explained how the ECU on the car would re-act to component failures. In example, a shorted aux air valve, or open aux air valve. It was a total list of every component on a L-jet system in a state of being shorted or open. Has anyone ever seen this?

I would check
1. Does the injector get a pulse?
if yes, check your fuel lines, maybe you reconnected something wrong.
If no, check the ECU connections, especially the ones from the dizzy points and from the AFM

Mike,
Reading over your thread again, it sure sounds to me if the injectors are not getting the signal from the ECU that is needed to fire the injectors. Looking at the prints supplied in your thread, that would be a varying length negative pulse. The injectors have positive to the thru the resistor pack continiously and when ground is supplied, the "fire".You said by grounding the terminals in the ECU one at a time you do get injector action. I wonder if something in your signal to the ECU to fire the injectors is not right. Can you try fooling the ECU by grounding the input to it from the points. Maybe disconnect the petronix terminal at the coil and use a jumper as a temp set of points to see if the ECU will fire the injectors. If it doesn't, then I am at a loss here with L-Jet, but if it does, then you have a direction to look.
Tom

My suggestion.


There is a white wire in the L-Jet injection harness that is supposed to connect to the negative side of the coil. If you just replaced the points with a pertronix, I would look and make sure that wire is on the negative side of the coil. If it is not, then the injectors never receive a pulse telling them when to fire.

Sorry you are having this much problem with L-Jet, it sounds to me like you need to identify if the brain is providing an injector pulse as almost everything else is accounted for.

It is rare that these analog brains die, but it can happen.

When I put my L-jet back on (after a long time with dellortos) my only issues were fuel line leaks and a couple of bad (original) injectors.
Since then, it has proven to be a VERY reliable FI.

DON'T GIVE UP!!!

All wires are where they should be. All wires have confirmed continuity through the harness. Pertronix has been run in this car for 5 years. This is a newer pertronix module that had been run prior to rebuild. I fried the original Pertronix modue by connecting the ignition wire harness 1 pin off! Car was functioning after that mishap with current pertronix module prior to rebuild.

I can tell you are really frustrated! Been there many times before working on electrical/electronis systems. Many times I have chased my tail due to a brand new part, with testing data, being installed and then overlooked as the possible problem, only much later finding out that it was wired up wrong from the factory and the test results were invalid.
Try unhooking the petronix wire to the coil and use a jumper wire to imitate points. I believe you will need to ground the jumper several times per injector firing cycle as the ECU has a divider network in it. If this will not get your injectors to fire and all wires are hooked up right, and all other components in the system have been tested, that would point to a bad ECU.
Tom

Is it showing Tom? I'm actually taking it rather well. If I was truly frustrated I woul be driving it already.....with Carbs! Lol!

Any progress ?

Didn't get to it today...surprise visit from family today. Possibly next Monday

Don't give up. You will get it... And in the process you are becoming another L-jet guru!

I hear that! Everything I've done on this car has made me a better person. Seriously, there were a few things I was scared to do before I got into 914's. One was CV joints. I was scared to take them apart...now I can assemble one with my eyes closed!
I WILL BEAT THIS!

Get one of these : Noid Light

Plug it into your injector connector and crank the car. If it flashes, it is probably fuel pressure or the injectors. If it doesn't, then you have a wiring problem.

Bump

Did you ever find the issue and get it running?

Sorry to leave everyone in suspense. It is running!

Here was what happened. Since I wasn't getting fuel out of the injectors, but did have fuel pressure, I decided to start from the tank and work my way to the engine. I had installed all new 30r9 hose throughout the car. I did find a slight kink in the supply line under the tank, but not enough to cause a no start. After I remedied that I disconnected and reconnected every hose in the supply chain. When I got to the fuel rail I found that the inner Teflon (I think) lining of the 30r9 hose had folded over inside the hose when installed. This would allow the rail to pressurize, but onl after prolonged cranking of the engine, but would not maintain the pressure due to the resistance of the blockage.

One that was repaired, I got in, crossed my fingers and turned her over. She fired on the 3rd short attempt!

I jumped out and held the throttle body to maintain 2500 rpm and got my break in cycle done. Hooked up all the rest of the bits, axles, heaters stuff, last weekend. Changed the oil and filter and drove her to work yesterday!

I love it! It's a 1911 with KB pistons and European Motorworks cylinders. L-jet FI w/ stock cam. 1.8L heads were reworked to 2L specs and intakes were ported. 1.7 rockers were modified for swivel foot adjusters. Rotating mass was balanced as well. She pulls smooh throughout the entire rpm range. I still need to tweak the AFM richen up the mixture. Just a tad lean.

Thanks for all the support here! Thanks to tim_nd for the PM's here and the bird site when we were attacked here. This site rocks!

On another note. If this site has EVER helped you out of a jam, please see the World fundraiser thread! Thanks Andy!!!

So glad to hear this Mike.
I have found many times that when we are working on our cars we inadvertently do something that will cause a problem later. Unfortunately, because we just "fixed" that, we tend to overlook that as a possible problem. Way to stick to it and find the problem!!
And dlee6204, thanks for the great L-Jet prints and schematics. I now know a tiny bit about L-Jet.
Tom

Have a Double relay question. Trouble shot no current to thermo time sensor. The diode between connection 86 & 86a looks to be shot. Did not attempt to open up relay. Does anyone know the value of that diode is? And would a feasible fix be to splice one in external to the relay?or am I stuck getting a whole new relay. It's all working otherwise. Thank you.

Hey Jay. you'll get a better response if you start a new thread about your dilemma. This one is pretty old and may be looked over.