I'm in the last stages of installing an 73 FI 2.0 engine into my 73 that had a carb engine in it. I've got 3 wires coming out of the FI wiring harness near the coil, but don't know for sure where to put them.

A black/red wire and smaller black wire are "bundled" together with a sleeve. From the Haynes wiring diagram it looks like the black/red goes to coil #15. I can't seem to find the black wire on the diagram.

There is also a green wire that comes out of the harness by itself (not bundled like the two above). The only green wire on the diagram goes between the coil & the distro so it's obviously the condensor wire, not the one I've got.

Can anyone tell me where these wires go? Also, can you confirm that #1 coil is also the one marked + ? I can't see the number markings at the moment and I can never remember which number goes to which +/- sign.

Thanks!

Black is + terminal 1 and the Black/purple is the tach wire which is - or #15
Green wire is hooked to the distributor and #15 with the tach wire Geoff

Thanks Geoff!

I'm off to see if I can actually get this running today!

Thinner black wire is probably black/purple and is the tach signal wire. Hooks where Geoff said.

Is the green wire green/red? Check carefully for the remnants of a red stripe. If so, it is the oil pressure switch wire. I remember that being in the same harness as the coil wiring.

I believe that the AAR wire (white) is also in that harness.

--DD

if the engine harness is pre 73, a solid green wire can also be the power for the heater fan. i have that on my car, the main harness is 73 (with heater blower wire in it, near the relay board) and a earlier engine harness, with a green heater wire coming out of the harness in the location ernie mentioned. just a thought ...

Andy

All the above is true...look carfully at the green wire...bet its green/red for the oil pressure switch.

BTW, these wires are in the ignition harness, not the FI harness. The FI harness has only white wires.

Apparently I wasn't yet seeing well this morning. The Green/Red wire is already attached to the oil pressure switch. The Green wire that I have is actually Green/Black instead of solid green.

The small Black wire also has a stripe. At first glance it looked White, but on closer examination it is Purple/Lavendar.

The Black/Red wire definitely looks like a Red stripe to me.

My AAR wire is Red, just FYI. Good luck getting everything sorted out.

Just in case I only added to the confusion with my last reply...

My Green/Red wire is attached to the OP sensor. I have another Green/Black wire that seems to have no home.

Ernie, you have the one year only 1972 Engine harness. It has the green black wire included in the harness for the oil TEMP sender. It just dead ends out of the harness and then there is another, separate single green/black wire that would run from the wire terminal on the harness to the OPTIONAL oil temp sender (for a gauge)...that was optional for 1972 cars only.

The 70-71 914/4 cars did not have provisions for an oil temp guage, and the 73-76 cars had the oil temp circuit wiring in the main body harness.

Wow! I didn't like the looks of the harness that was on the engine (too many butt connectors on wires), so I stole one off one of the engine that came out of my 72. I've got the Oil temp sender for the guage (located in the plate on the bottom of the engine) and it is connected into the main harness via the connector below the battery.

My current symptom is that I've got no spark. Is there any chance that this is because of the ignition harness that I'm using? I figured I probably did something to burn up the Pertronix.

I was gonna put a new harness on my Christmas list anyway!

Try switching in a set of points and condensor to see if you burnt it up.
Geoff

I'm in the middle of putting back the points & cond right now - spread out on the kitchen table.

If you reversed the two coil wires...they would fry...instantly.

It's ALIVE!!! - Well sort of anyway.

With points & condensor back in it I've got spark and the engine started. It idles for about 30 seconds and then dies. It won't rev above idle.

This is pretty much the same behavior I saw when I converted a 1.7 from carb to FI, but didn't change the fuel pump. I'm guessing at this point that I have a fuel pressure problem because I also couldn't get a reading on the gauge when I tried to check the fuel pressure earlier today. I've not run this pump before (bought it from a Rennlister, but haven't used it til now) so perhaps the pump isn't putting out enough pressure.

Fuel pressure is supposed to be set at about 29 lbs. Anyone know what a pump is supposed to put out. I'm thinking of hooking the gauge straight up to the pump instead of the fuel rail.

Enough for tonight. I can sleep better having gotten this far!

If anyone has any other thoughts on what may cause this behavior, I'd like to hear them.

The stock pump should be capable of putting out close to 50 PSI if you block all the flow.

Make sure your fuel pressure regulator is hooked up correctly. The idea behind it is that it acts like a blockage in the fuel line. So the hoses in between the pump and the regulator see a rising pressure until it gets to the "set" pressure, where the regulator opens up and lets some of the pressure bleed off.

Hook it up backwards, and the pressure either stays too low, or goes through the roof. I forget which...

--DD

Well, I'm sure that it's the fuel pump. I finally tested by connecting directly to the pump and I'm only getting 4-5 psi instead of 50. Anybody got a good used pump? I've posted a WTB ad.

Oops - forgot to say that I've checked all the plumbing and it matches a known good 73 as well as the picture in the Haynes manual.