So, I'm hearing a whining sound from the passenger front wheel. When I tap the breaks, the sound goes away (for a little while). A month ago, I had it on the lift and noticed the wheel was wobbly. so I tightened the bearing. all was well for a while, then, I was driving to the shop to put on some new tires the other day, and she is pulling to right. I try to take the wheel off, and the lug nuts are too hot to touch. It seems as though the caliper is sticking. The hub turns, but not as freely as the other side. And the rotor is a little warped. on the way home (on my awesome new tires), it is really whining bad.

BTW. its a 911 break and suspension setup in the front.

My questions are:
is it a caliper for sure? I'm thinking caliper rebuild kit from Pelican. Can I have the rotor turned?

Any guidance would be great. Thanks.

Hmm, that was my first guess when I heard the sound, but then I thought breaks when I realized hitting the breaks made the sound go away.

It seems bearings are easier than a caliper rebuild, so I guess that's a good thing.

is there a way to confirm this? Or should I just go ahead and order up some bearings? Pelican Parts?

Sounds like a bearing to me, too.

The wheel being "wobbly" is indication enough. That has bearing written all over it.

the bearings and grease seal are relatively cheap. and since you have to pull the caliper off to pull the hub you'll know whats wrong for sure when you change the bearings. . and a rebuild kit for the caliper is just as cheap. . .not rocket science, just take the puck out and clean and reseal. . hopefully the puck bore isn't pitted. .

The bad wheel bearing is allowing your rotor to rub against your brake pads causing the heat and noise. When you apply the brakes they center the rotor for a while and everything goes away until it gets off center again.

Replace the bearings and seals ASAP because once they get to this stage, they go fast.

Brake vs. Break BTW. Fix the bearings before they BREAK.

The wheel bearing seem to be fine, nice and smooth. The caliper was really bad. I ordered bearings, but I think I'll send 'em back. I rebuild the calipers, and everything seems fine now.

Eric, thank you so much. Brakes good. Breaks bad

Been wanting to do that for awhile. BTW, your bearings are toast, whether you realize it or not. And, it will cost you to send them back. We'll be happy to coach you thru changing those bearings if you like.

OK, How can you be so sure? If they were bad, wouldn't it be obvious? They look perfect, and w/o the caliper on, they spin smooth as butter. I almost replaced them anyway, but decided it was a waste of time. Maybe not.

Bad bearings will often feel smooth under no load. Take them apart and look at them to verify they are still good. It's easier now than by the side of the road, at night, in the rain. Good luck.

What am I looking for? I don't see any wear at all. Plus, it's on the road now, and I can detect no issues at all.

The car seems a little twitchier now, but I put much lower profile tires on at the same time I did the brakes, so I'm guessing that's the cause.

Thanks for the help guys.

1. To test the wheel bearing go for a longer drive, preferable on the freeway and try *not* to use your brakes. As little as possible. Then pull over and check the temperature of the center of the front wheels. By hand is fine. If the wheel in question is any hotter in the center than the other side, your bearing is going bad.

2. Find a shop that has experience aligning old Porsche's. Get a 4-wheel alignment. Be prepared to bring your own shims for the rear, they won't have any (and can't do the job correctly without).

The standard sit test is to place your hand on top of the tire and rock the car back and forth as hard as you can. Hear a clunk? When I was inspecting for PCA autocross I found many this way. They were either loose or bad. If left loose for too long, they'll be bad.

If you get a stray "Twitch" meaning; you're going down the road and all of the sudden you get a twitch, you have serious bearing problems.

Plus, if the bearing heats up too much, you can fatigue (snap) the spindle