I am welding in the inner suspension ear and I am trying to figure out what dimensions have to be exact and which can be accommodated in the regular suspension adjustment. I will of course try to get it perfect but I am looking for any gotchas that I have not thought about yet.

I know I should have jigged it up before I got started but that was years ago and that ship has sailed. If you have any thoughts on how to build a jig and do it now I'm all ears but I have not been able to figure out a truly reliable method yet.

Thanks,
John

If you have access to another straight car you can build a jig off of that one. I haven't messed with the rear but I built a jig for the front to straighten mine out.

Don't know if this will help: http://www.914world.com/specs/underdims.php

This will get you there.

Thanks to everyone! Jeff that diagram needs to be in the "914 Info Section" it is exactly what I need.

Thanks,
John

OK I have the piece in place but my dimensions are slightly off but as far as I can tell symmetrical. I have 33.75 between the outside face of the suspension ears(jef has 33.5). When I measure from the front edge of the hole in the suspension ear to the center of the fire wall I get 27.25 (Jeff has 28.25). I may not have the correct place that you indicate Jeff but I could not find a hole that seemed completely centered.

Thanks,
John

The key is that you are square on both sides...so it matches.
Your car may very well be different from many other cars in this area....just make your square to the centerline of the car.

Both sides should match..
Find the center of the firewall, mark a level (plumb) line to show center...then measure from there.

rich

The hole punched in the firewall is above the shelf and below the window ledge.

A few guys here have used the drawing and had no issue with aligning the wheels after replacing the inner console. The aftermarket console does require fitting to get it in the correct position. Just recheck as you go.

Measurements WILL vary from car to car. Rich is correct always square from the centerline.

If you find a need to triangulate front to rear this will help you also for the outer console. I have found huge differnces front to rear from car to car... enough to lose sleep.

Jeff, how much different can you be front to back? I'm off about 3/16.
The spread between the consoles is dead on at 33.5.

How much front to back adjustment do we have? Can the 3/16 be adjusted out.

If the spread between the consoles is 33.5 check the height on each side. They should be close. You can do a simple plumb measure from the ground up to the bolt hole.

Assuming motor is out measure from the hole at the center upper firewall just below the window ledge. If this measures equal and the ground measurement is off you probably have a minor twist in the tub.

3/16 is not a big deal since the tolerances are loose on these cars. Personally I would be satisfied with only 3/16.


I have seen a half dozen 74-75 tubs that the wheelbase is off by half an inch or more from one side compared to the other. None of these were ever hit. One was so far off it was visually noticeable by looking at how the rear wheel sat in the wheel opening.

3 holes to choose from

Jeff, as usual your a wealth of info. Hey how's some of Toppers parts coming along on your build?
Thanks

Don't want to Hi Jack this thread but funny you ask

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...p;#entry2104981

I'll take some more measurements today. I couldn't figure out what holes you were talking about. Don't really know why ............. I've measured it about 20 times.

The car is on the rotisserie, so a floor measurement won't do much go.

As for the twist. I think when I put in the new engine compartment long one end is off just a smidgen. Everything was perfect when we measured and tweaked the old suspension console for about 4 hours. Thinking I had everything exactly in place with clamps. I used self tapping screws in every other hole to hold it down before I started welding. That must have tucked the firewall side of the console just a tad tighter on the top corner and I didn't go back an remeasure. I was getting too excited about getting to weld again. DAMMIT ..............

Worse part is I can now see it with my naked eye when I put the all-thread thru the two consoles to measure the spread. It lines up about 2 inches from my frame jig. That really pisses me off

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...7546&st=325

I was so pissed yesterday that I didn't even touch the car. I worked on the other one.
I know the car will drive perfectly based on all the cars you've seen over the years. You'll be able to align it. But the right side tire will be 3/16 of inch closer to the firewall, right ?

I didn't have any type of jig for the inner suspension console either. Using the third hole down in Jeffs picture, I cut a piece of steel brake line to 28 1/4" to get the fore-aft alignment.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

MacGyver ( Super In Law, Grandpa Jack) built me a giant divider type gadget to measure more precisely. Worked great. But still off 3/16" or 4mm.
I wonder how far off the other 3 cars I have are based on Jeff's lifetime of observations? Project for another day.

My white car is dead on 20 11/16 straight out from the firewall on both ears. Because we changed it out 10 years ago.

Here's the measuring device.

Click to view attachment

Here's the measurement of the factory spec (914World Info).

Center of Shifter Hole

Click to view attachment

Middle of rod thru suspension console.

Click to view attachment

Use of measurement gadget.

Click to view attachment

Here's the rod thru the suspesion console.

Right side.
Click to view attachment

Left side.
Click to view attachment

This shows the 3/16 to narrow at the top.
Click to view attachment

Then I measured the rod to the wall.
Both left and right (top and bottom)
Click to view attachment

Then for shits and giggles I measured the angle of ear on both sides.
Click to view attachment
The gap shows the angle it should be to match the other side.

Here's my data points.

Factory shift rod to 1/2" bolt thru ear : 33 5/16 dead on spec.

Jeff's thru the ears outside measurement : 33 1/2 dead on spec.

Jeff's Center Hole :
R - 28 7/8 This is the side that is too tight to the firewall
L - 28 11/16
Jeff's Top Hole :
R - 33 3/16
L - 33
Same difference in both locations

From the bar to firewall.
R - 20 3/8
L - 20 9/16

Then I measured the distance from the drain hole on the ear to the bottom of the frame jig. Just like Jeff thought. The right side was shorter than the left.
R - 4 5/16.
L - 4 5/8.