I'm sitting here with a factory manual in front of me and can't find /4 flywheel wear limits listed anywhere.
Help please.
Full Version: /4 Flywheel Wear Limits.
I would think its dependant upon the clutch...
You need that depression for the clutch...so you cant turn it too many times or the disk would rub all the time.
rich
You need that depression for the clutch...so you cant turn it too many times or the disk would rub all the time.
rich
plus you end up hitting the flywheel bolt heads also...forgot about that.
QUOTE(Series9 @ Jun 26 2012, 10:27 AM) 
I'm sitting here with a factory manual in front of me and can't find /4 flywheel wear limits listed anywhere.
Help please.
Deleted, wrong information.
Siince the /6 and /4 are the same clutch, the following diagram should give you the limits even though it is a /6 - 901 Flywheel. Apparently, it has worked for others over the years.
Deleted, worng information.
QUOTE(SLITS @ Jun 26 2012, 11:12 AM)
Siince the /6 and /4 are the same clutch, the following diagram should give you the limits even though it is a /6 - 901 Flywheel. Apparently, it has worked for others over the years.
The "C" dimension wear limit of 11mm does not work for a 4 cyl flywheel . I just measured my brand new (OE German) 4cyl flywheel and came up with a"C" dimension of 9mm uncut. This is 2mm shallower than a -6 flywheels' wear limit of 11mm. When you cut the 4 flywheel that 9mm dimension gets even shallower. I have been told that you can cut the wear surface even with the top of the 3 vent holes on the inside of the wear surface. Don't forget to maintain that "A"dimension differential of 22.5 mm.
I tried long and hard to find this info but never did. But it is something less than 9mm as that's the measure when new. I ended up biting the bullet and buying a new flywheel to play it safe. Nice to know that the new one will most likely outlast the life of the car.
If you use yours, make sure that the top of the bolts don't sit above the surface. You don't want them making contact with the clutch disk. I think that's the main concern since you could adjust the clutch for a change of 1mm.
If you use yours, make sure that the top of the bolts don't sit above the surface. You don't want them making contact with the clutch disk. I think that's the main concern since you could adjust the clutch for a change of 1mm.
That's the diagram I was provided and have used it twice. You "can" take it thinner, and if the bolts aren't flush you can grind them down or replace with suitable grade of allen head or similar.
Warning: if you shave the heads, be prepared to thin the sidewalls of a socket for the next removal or grind down an appropriate angled open end wrench. Keep in mind that torqeing going in is different and you need a helluva lot more PB Blaster coming back out.
Oh, not recommended for the track or heavy hilly roads
Warning: if you shave the heads, be prepared to thin the sidewalls of a socket for the next removal or grind down an appropriate angled open end wrench. Keep in mind that torqeing going in is different and you need a helluva lot more PB Blaster coming back out.
Oh, not recommended for the track or heavy hilly roads
This is a "lo-fi" version of our main content. To view the full version with more information, formatting and images, please click here.