i'm sure this has been covered already.

I'll be trying it today and then dialing the carbs after.
easier to do on the ground instead of in the car... I know that much.

KT

Make sure you look for and adjust the two extra cylinders

been documented here - i think it's a Lawrence thread - might be Classic by now ...

get yourself one of those feeler gauges that looks like a question mark -> ?

make sure you know what your 3 TDC marks look like on the fan pulley.

best to drain the oil first...

1-6-2-4-3-5

What?!

Cut me a break... This is hard.

KT

If you are using a feeler gauge, there is a certain "feel" when you slide the feeler through the gap. Of course, pull the covers off by cracking each nut loose from the inside out, then take them all the way off. Helps to reduce warpage.

You should be able to slide the feeler gauge around with a little resistance. If this is your first sixer adjustment, go through it twice. While the engine is out, don't forget to mark the three spot on the crank pulley on the flywheel as well.

It may take a few tries to really get it right, but a good valve adjust will have a "tickle, tickle, tickle" sound to it, not a "tac,tac,tac".

Have fun!

My pulley has the marks already. Yay!

KT

of course it does..

now, take advantage of the opportunity to mark Z1 with a bright color, and the other two with a different bright color. (like - DayGlo orange and green)

that way the next time you're trying this with the engine in the car and you're wedging your head in past the battery and using a flashlight and mirror to verify TDC, you'll have a chance of doing it...

and of course Z1 is TDC #1 -and- #4, so you still get to pull the dizzy cap to verify your start place ...

Good one...I'll do that

KT

Don't forget the flywheel, mark that as well. You don't have to wedge you head between anything to see marks on the flywheel once the engine is installed. Stock 914-6 flywheels have the marks that the pulley does.

i don't remember the TDC marks besides Z1... been too long...

Ya know, it has been a while since I have seen a stock 914-6 flywheel myself. But I can remember adjusting the valves by one as well as setting the timing by one. Doesn't mean they came with them I guess? Either way, it rocks to add the marks because the little hole in the top back of the engine is easy to look at. Like a complete dummy, I marked mine with a sharpe and forgot to scribe the marks. I will be surprised of the marks are still there when it comes to the next valve adjustment. Derrr.

I'd say the feeler has to offer resistance, if it slides easily you are too loose.
The feeler gauge is .004", the spec calls for just slightly tighter than that so the feel should be best described as "stiff".
I use a dial indicator myself, I get a more accurate setting and I absolutely hate the factory feeler gauge. The blade is too damn long IMO.

Now that all the blather is done, you wanna know the REAL way to do it?
Once you've mastered this simple technique, you'll wonder why anybody does it any other way .............

- Remove the valve covers.
- Leave the spark plugs in (this is to prevent carbon flakes from falling into the exhaust valve seats).
- Turn the engine over by hand (or with a starter button if it's in the car) until one valve is fully open. Makes sense to pick one on the end and establish a system.
- Adjust the valve exactly opposite that open valve. If #1 intake valve is fully open, adjust #4 intake valve.
- Proceed to adjust them all, turning the engine until another is rocked open.

This works for T4 motors as well, and T1s, 356s, Brit iron, Volvos, Japanese engines, whatever .................... It works during engine assembly even before the distributor is installed. You don't have to worry about where TDC is, or which cylinder you're on. No climbing up and down, something that's important to us olepharts, and it's foolproof. Well, maybe not completely foolproof, those fools have a way of finding new tricks!

Takes me less than 10 minutes to do a 914 motor (in the car) if I have to adjust every valve, and usually less than 5 minutes. In fact, it often takes more time to clean and re-gasket the valve covers than it does to set the valves! If you need clarification, just ask!

The Cap'n

Advise from the Krust, even easier. Just look at all these choices!

Ive been doing it in the manner crusty describes for years.. once your comfortable and realize what is happening with the cams and valves, this streamlines the adjustment quites a bit.

thats how i do my 914/4.....

Yes, I've always made adjustments as long as the valve is sitting fully closed. closed is closed.

KT

for those who may be inexperienced at discovering the 'feel' - here's what you do... get a micrometer and set it at whatever you want to set you valves at. 0,10mm for a /6 (0,003937"). or 0.006" or whatever. then, stick in the feeler gauge you're trying for. that's what it should feel like.

Eurometrix used to sell a feeler gauge fixture for this purpose, but i asked many professional mechanics and none of them liked it - especially in a 914.6 where there really isn;t a lot of room, especially with the HE's in place...

i'm glad Mr Larson posted 'his' method - i was going to allude to it, and some day i'll grow more comfortable using it, but i'm glad your got it exactly fro the horse's mouth.

this is the 'question mark' feeler gauge i use; i have a couple of spare blades for when the original eventually breaks...

I did it...Yippee

Took about 2 hours. I took off valve covers, cleaned 'em, cleaned off the heads. Adjusted 'em all, and painted my headers.

Open sez me...


KT

nice... first time ive ever seen the inside of a 911 head

Actually, you still haven't. The 911 heads are separate (as in there are 6 of them), and what you see in the photo is a cam/rocker box that bolts onto the heads.

It takes longer when the engine's in the car. If you have the "turbo" exhaust valve cover, grind down some of the webbing so you can remove the cover with the engine installed. Otherwise, it tends to hit the trailing arm before it slips off the studs. I had a friend that swore up and down that it was impossible to do the valves with the engine in the car...

i knew about the 6 heads.... i should have clarified im such a /4 guy

Good job Trekkor! You have your first out of the way. Now they will become easier and faster with time.

I can't wait to see some pics of the conversion. When do you plan to pull the door stop, I mean 4cyl out?

Motor comes out right after Nov 14th.

I should have all conversion parts in hand by then.

KT

Should we move this to the Classics?

I ran the SIX for about ten minutes this afternoon.
sounds a little different to me. Not in a bad way.

Smoother.

i still need to sync the carbs. I'm scared.

Not really. No hurry, I guess.