The 914T has had some squeaks in the front, and a klunk that sounds like its in the rt rear area. I got rid of the squeaks in the front- the double rod end adjustable drop links I made were wearing out- new rod ends, no more squeaking. This only makes the klunk more noticeable.

On the highway, at 70+, expansion joints CAN make it klunk, but don't always. Seems you need just the right speed, and just the right bump, to get the klunk. Its a single klunk, not a squeak or rattle. I've not done any recent work in that area, so nothing loose or not re-connected correctly. Recently, I tried to find ways to make it klunk, to find the speed and bump size to re-produce the klunk at will. Oddly enough, when going from a flat roadway, turning into the Church parking lot at a 45 degree angle, and running up the 1-2' apron off the street into the parking lot, at a low speed, I can get it to make the single klunk every time.

I know what I think it is- what is the wisdom of the collective?

What do you think, and how would I test my car to see if your guess is right?

The first and easiest test is CV's. If, when you quickly slid the drive shaft's from end to end and they clunk then you have a bad CV. Probably inner.

So, youre testing the collective? Don't we have enough to do already? Lol. If you know what it is just fix it.

Not to threadjack but I recently started hearing a clunk when I take off in 1st and sometimes 2nd. No slippage in gears but a delayed klunk, about 1- 2 seconds after engage and take of or shift to second.

Well, then go slide the shafts and listen. It's amazing how much abuse those things will take.

OK, finally got around to checking. I am used to the sound and failure of a CV on a FWD car, a clicking when going around a corner, but am not so familiar with the sound one makes on our '14's. I have replaced axles in the past only when there was a complete failure, or if I had one off for trans work and noticed wear on the trans flange from the CV.

When grabbing the middle of the axle and pushing in and out, both sides make a solid contact/klunk, but only when I pull towards the wheel. Pushing towards the trans there is no sound. I was reasonably sure the noise was on the passenger side, but it could be both. When I recently had the trans out due to a failure of a newly installed pressure plate, I noticed nothing wrong with the inner surface of the trans flanges.

Is this odd to have 2 outside cv's going bad? They are of unknown age or service history, what with the number of axles I have swapped in and out over the last 20 yrs. If both outside CV's are going off, will this cause damage to the wheel bearings?

I'm a little worried here. I have 2 more axles with stubs I could swap in, but ? the condition of the CV's on them. Any links to inspection and re-building a CV so I can go thru these spare axles. AND, I'm supposed to be heading out this afternoon to Road America to hang with a bunch of guys over the vintage racing event going on thur/fri/sat/sun of this wk. Is the car safe for a 6 hr drive each way? Not planning any "lunch time" laps, thats for sure. Its just me in the car, but there will be a couple hundred extra pounds of camping stuff and food and such. I mention this because I recall destroying a CV during a novice school when I was giving an instructional ride along to a guy who was all of 300+ lbs. There was no knocking or klunking to hint the CV was bad at that time. She just went "pop" and died under full throttle.

I'm a little relieved here also, as CV had not occurred to me. I was thinking trailing arm bushing, and was concerned that I may have ovaled some of the mounting holes, so if CV is the winning answer, thats easier to deal with.

What can anyone add to help me out here on go or no go for the car, and any links to inspect/re-build the axles I have on hand. (that obviously would not happen today, I'd just take the TT and get the heck on the road)

Bring your spare axles to my place Saturday or Sunday night. and we can check them out together. That is the only time I will have to spend. You know why...

I did several sets now, checked, cleaned and re-greased them or checked and tossed due to excess ware. It's not hard but If you assemble them the wrong way they won't work. (they will get stuck and be hard to disassemble to correct)

Option 2 I know there is good info here in the forum but I don't have time to search.

Speaking from experience (insert facepalm here), have you checked the wheel bolts/lug nuts?

Well, I had an occasional clunk as well. I found it at 75+ MPH when my rear shock fell out.

This weekend is no good as I'm at RA for the vintage event. Lets stay in touch, maybe next weekend?

Lugs are tight.

I tried the slide the axle back and forth thing again, with the car OUT of gear. No noise from passenger side, good klunk from drivers side. Still ? if its CV or shock (koni sports that are 15+ yrs old with LOTS of autox miles on them) or trailing arm or ?.

If anybody needs a quick visual guide to CV reassembly, SirAndy has provided one. This example is a six bolt CV joint, but the same applies to the teener's 4 bolt + 2 pin CVs.

The only thing I'd add is to note the last two pics. Looking at the splines/teeth on the inside of the inner race, you'll notice the edge on one side is beveled to engage the splines on the axle - on the other side of the inner race, there's no such beveling. The beveled side must face the axle - so factor that in when you're figuring out which side of the outer race should face the output flange transaxle or stub axle wheel (also referred to as the "outer side") versus the axle ("inner side") and make sure they're coordinated.


A few CV-focused threads:

more CV questions (referenced above)
Stripped CV Bolt
HOW TO: Convert to real 5-lug in the rear using 944 CVs