Okay I did a search on oils that people run and my search was less than helpful. I always get the same thing. Brad penn oil... I know that this is good oil and many run this but I would like to know what everyone runs.

So please state the engine your running and what oil you're running.

Thanks,
Thomas

In my 2432 Raby Motor, I run - you guessed it, Brad Penn 20W - 50 Racing Oil...

I do not Fuch around with this motor. It's worth more than the car cost new!

2.0's and 1.7...Brad Penn

Brad Penn or Raby's new oil are safe bets. I've also heard that Kendall GT is once again available, that's what our local Porsche guru is recommending.

2056 d-jet Brad Penn 20-50
Got a case from Chris (Tangerine)


Thanks Chris

MOBIL 1 10/50. (Ceramic lifters).

2056/9550 cam. Brad Penn. Have a hot rod shop a mile away that carrys it

Likewise

In my '74 2.0L I run Brad Penn 20w50 in hot months, 10w40 in colder weather.

I've run the Swepco oil with no issues, about the same price as BP (a local source for BP only just came available) but it's delivered to my door.

1911 w/ L-jet...Brad Penn 20/50

2056 by McMark with dual webers--Bard Penn 20W-50

Stock 1.0 and 1.7 both brad penn

BP 20-50 but just ordered a case of Joe Gibbs DT50 to see if the oil runs cooler.

BP in a McMark 2270. No comments yet. The engine is brand new.

WOW! Now I understand why all I would see is BP!

Okay,
Are the benefits due to the Zinc? What sources do you use to obtain the oil?

Thanks for everyone's input!


Thomas

Zinc and phosphorus are the key ingredients. (Make sure it's the green stuff - BP has some other formulas that aren't right for our engines.)

I get mine at the local Summit Racing outlet.

FWIW I documented the results of my research here:
http://randbaldwin.com/?p=326

I have been using Lucas Hot Rod oil. 20-50 synthetic with high zinc and phosphorus.

I am due for an oil change so I will be trying the Gibbs DT-50.

Brad Penn 20 50

Kendall with liquid titanium, GT-1

Been running this 30 weight oil since my 2414cc race motor was built. About 5 hours on the motor between autoxing and hill climbing.

Valvoline VR1 20-50 as recommended by Fat Performance here in Southern California.

.....Motorcraft,synthetic blend(in the equipment van)
911 carrera( Mobil 1) Redline in the trans.

valvoline vr1 50wt in summer and 30wt in winter, same as my aircooled motorcycles.

73 Stock 2.0 Brad Penn 20/50

Brad Penn 20/50 or 10/30 in a three cars.

2.7L 911S flat six .... Kendall GT1 with Liquid Titanium .... 6K miles

Same in the 2.0L fours I owned.

I do have a case of BP but never used it.

I sneak into Slits' place and siphon out of the drain bin. I then repackage and sell as BP Extra Black. It is loaded with more than just zinc, but all the other special nutrients found in Porsche engines, plus liquid Titanium. Black gold I say. Since it is heavy on nutrients, I call it nSake oil... For greatness Sake. Paypal me for more info.

1974 2056 w/dual Dells, Brad Penn 20/50

Valvoline straight 40W pure dino oil. What do you think the Germans were using 40 years ago? My car has never run better and cooler in hotter temps.

40 years ago oil had different ingredients. Look at the API rating. If your 40W has SM in the rating, that's bad. Things have changed quite a bit just in recent years.

No big deal to the newer cars - kind of like Ethanol is no big to new cars - but is definitely harder on our old beasts.

Just because it doesn't make your car run bad and hot, doesn't mean it's the best oil for your engine.

Single weight is the way to go. Although i do have to say im a Castrol Man!

Castrol HD 40wt 1.7 with no real mods

Single weight is the way to go?? Oof. Where do you live?

I'll give on some of the additives topic and how you may or may not prove it in all your glorious 200k+ engines.

But stating that single-weight is the only way to go is dumb. Beyond dumb. I used to swear by straight 30W. Then I realized I wasn't the only person on this side of the planet. There's the rest of the world, dumbasses. Break out of your bubble...

Please at least consider your seasons and climates. Would you really run 40 in sub zero winter temps?

But more to the point since we have an expert on hand....


Please explain your understanding of multi-viscosity oils and their additives over time. And please include your scientific results regarding your observations of the importance of zinc and phosphorus as they pertain to the longevity of the type IV engine.

Thomas call me
Van

74 914 2.0L Brad Penn 20/50

85 911 3.2L Brad Penn 20/50

I pick it up at Zim's, If you buy two cases you get a discount.

valvoline vr still has the mineral pack/zinc etc in it according to their website. it is locally available and i think a little less expensive than bp. i have used single weight oils in my air cooled engines since my teens and never had any problems. that being said, i religiously change oil in air cooled much more frequently than in other vehicles. every 1000 miles in the motorcycles and every 2000 miles in the 914, or every riding/ driving season if the mileage thresholds are not achieved.

....I agree.....in these cars(914,vw)even early 911

amsoil z-rod 30wt.

...

1975 5.7L push-rod V8. The cheapest sh*t I can find.

Brad Penn 20/50 in the newly built 2056.

Castrol 20/50 in the wife's 1.7 since we bought it in 2007. We might change to BP after the rebuild

Castrol 20/50 in the 911s and 912s ... same for the Harleys and my '96 Tacoma.

Stuck in the past? It pays to stay educated because things change. You still use transistors in our ipod? Don't just spew history, keep learning!

Wow... I have received more response on this than I expected. I am a castrol guy simply because I know what their research consists of and agree with it. However, it does not mean it is the best oil for this car. I have also heard arguments about Pennsylvania crude and the benefits from that. Anyway, thank you all for the comments keep them coming.

Thomas

Are there other good oils that contain the zinc and other pertanent additives?

But... but... Castrol is Liquid Engineering®! It must be the best choice!!

I have a jug of Castrol in the -6 now, because I needed to put something in it when we got it running again. Now that I'm past 750 miles I need to figure out what the next fill is. So Mark thanks for the vote for Castrol in a six banger. I had assumed Brad Penn would be a good choice, but maybe my 911SC lump is new enough to not require the extra zinc and phosphorus...

it has nothing to do with the newness of the rebuild..
its not like the old days with lead where you could rebuild a motor and used seats made to run without lead...


its about the forces and design of the cam shaft and lifters....

if you have roller rockers and hydraulic lifters like a modern motor then the forces on your cam lobes are lessened and you will be fine...

however if you have an chevy 350 (nearly all V8's over 5-10 years old)
or any 911 air cooled 6 cylinder
or any type 4 motor....
then your cam shafts are subject to enough force that you need the zinc and phosphorus to help them cushion the rockers running on the cams

without it you can trash a set of cam shafts in only a thousand or few thousand miles.... and nothing will bring those lobes back except another rebuild.

break in is probably the absolute most important time to protect those cam lobes with the proper oil since they need the heat cycle to help them begin their lives......

Every single aircooled I have ever run has been on Brad Penn 20W-50

Did someone say "HOT" in Minny Soda ?
Our winters are hotter than your summers, anyone's engine would be cooler.

......I was in mlnl soda once(duluth) so cold me & me 914 almost
burned up!!

....GO DINO....

Appreciate the info, and realize comments may not be directed at me per se. Importance of using correct oil from first fill forward noted.

But in my case, I said "running again." Mine had sat a couple years, but now it's running again - no rebuild. It was smoking a lot for various reasons, but after some miles and Tom Amon's last visit I just get a little smoke on startup and that's it.

Either way, eager to put the right oil and a new Mahle filter in there Real Soon Now...

In regards to where i live you can refrence the space right under my avatar.

Prehaps saying its the ONLY way to go may have been somewhat daft being that there is different applications for different use of our cars, however you do have to account for the fact that these motors were designed to run on single weight. And the Germans build quality on the majority of their cars isn't quite what one would call sub-par. They may have had good idea or two.

I live in southern california. We have winter weather a total of maybe 2 weeks out of the whole year. The rest of the time its Sunny skys and swim shorts.

Ive talked to many motor builders here in southern california who swear by single weight and advised me to do my own research. Now keep in mind i am in NO WAY saying Castrol HD or any single weight would be the best but it keeps my temps down in my car better then multi-weights i have tried and what she was originally designed to run on.

Some (Lengthy)reading material for you sir:
Motor oil Wear Test Results

Your beloved Brad Penn didn't seem to do too well.

Oh and calm down we all have our own opinions based off what we have heard, seen, experienced, etc. We're all friends here so there's no sense in trolling on anyone who doesn't agree with you.

Hi,

I'm so tired of this arguement, I have to chime in. I have no dog in this fight, only my own experiences. Not one of you has a Phd in chemistry and works as a formulation scientist for an oil company. You all cite studies, but who was the researcher and what was thier curriculum vitæ like?

My car bud is a formlations scientist for a major oil company. We met about 15 years ago while our sons played Little League (they were the worst two players on the team). He remarked to me at one of the games that he didn't realize that I was an "Aircooled Head" and told me that he had a 914 in his barn (it's a 72).

Anyway this was about the time that I started building my 2270 and the lifter failure and cam failure issues first surfaced in the late 90's. I spent over 1k$ over the cost of off the shelf Webcam products for Schbecks and shipping and machining to avoid a lifter/cam failer on my 2270 build.

One night at the lake, we talked about this issue in depth. His scientific conclusions and my experience? No scientfic reason not to run syth/engineered oil in an air cooled motor. My experiece - I spin my 2270 till the pill cuts in (7.5k). Ran syth/engineered oil from day one. Still on the road baby.