Hi, my name is Blake and I'm new.

This is "Betty" my 84 944, with some Fuchs wheels I wish I had now...This is the car that started it all. And yes that's Mid-Ohio, near where I'm from originally - Columbus, OH.

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I live in Springfield, MO now, and work at a Yamaha motorcycle dealership right off of Classick Route 66.

By some miracle I traded an old Yamaha motorcycle for a 73 914 as pictured below.

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I've been browsing this forum and have viewed what I believe to be a good majority of the threads, and I'm ready to get started!

Here are a few more pictures of the car and what I do know about it:

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Engine: 1.7, aftermarket exhaust, single carb, used to have a/c. Starts and runs great. It's my first 914, but I was expecting a lot less than what this motor can do! My first time on the freeway I caught myself approaching 90 before I knew it. It's leaky though. It's almost ridiculous.

Transmission: all gears work, some grinding between, but can be avoided if you're careful.

Body/Frame: Sigh...it's a rebuilt salvage title, so it's been re-done post accident. I inspected it to the best of my ability prior to purchase and found no major issues, but upon closer inspection, may in fact need some rust repair. I'm hoping to learn to weld on this car, so bring it on.

Suspension: Not terrible. A little soft and boat like for my taste, but overall impressions were that it wasn't needing anything drastic immediately.




After an entire summer of putting it off, I finally got started. Ripped the interior out, found some homemade floor stiffening metal work, but overall not too much rust. We'll see what it looks like after I wire wheel everything. Pictures to come.

And I finally worked up the courage to tackle the motor pull. I felt completely crazy pulling a good running motor out of a vehicle, but figured it would be good for me and would help me learn the car a lot more quickly. It was a lot easier than I thought and I only needed a little help from my fiance.

Up went the car and in went the creeper:

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4 hours and one trip to autozone for a 12pt CV Joint tool later, and out came this:

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Plans for the car right now would be to clean up and seal up the drive train, address electrical issues, rebuild interior, new wheels, and paint someday, but ultimately its gonna be a daily/fair weather driver. I don't want to sink too much into something with a rebuilt salvage title. I may use this one as a donor vehicle for a clean title 914.

That's all for now, but hopefully this turns into some sort of build thread.

ANY information you can give me based on what you see is greatly appreciated!!! I'll take all the motivation and help I can get. I have ADHD that's untreated right now, so don't feel bad about bugging me for updates as I don't really have anybody encouraging or motivating me.

How bout some shots of the Hell Hole, battery tray, jack points, longs, both trunks. We're picture junkies because a lot of us can't read.

If you've got a boat that carb makes a good anchor!

"Body/Frame: Sigh...it's a rebuilt salvage title, so it's been re-done post accident. I inspected it to the best of my ability prior to purchase and found no major issues, but upon closer inspection, may in fact need some rust repair. I'm hoping to learn to weld on this car, so bring it on."

Not necessarily. Some insurance companies will not bother with the towing and storage post theft, it could have been in a hail storm. Lots of other reasons that might make it less ominous.

Looks like mine


that engine could use a bit of love.

Why do all 914 engines have leaves and crap all over them???

.....WELCOME....

Welcome. Please add the VIN to the database and Happy 914ing!

Welcome! Can't wait to see progress.

...was yer heat working???

Yah, dump that carb

Good score! Welcome aboard!

Welcome! Good progress on pulling the engine. I'm a big fan of the 944 as well..here's my S2 at Buttonwillow about 10 years ago:

For all your seals and other good stuff 914Rubber, pelican parts, GPR parts,and if you can't find something here on the world there is also AA. Good luck on your car. John

P.S. what size 12pt bit did you use for the CV's? I need one, I'm about to swap my engine.

Thanks for all of the encouraging words. I'll hopefully get pictures of everything important this weekend and get cleaning. I have a full bottle of purple power and plenty of time.

I'll probably just keep this motor as it is, fix the leaks, check the "cooling system" and then run it! All the while, I'll be saving/searching for a 2.0, or parts to convert to a 2.0.

From what I understand the 1.7 with a single carb is about as bad as it can get power wise. If that's the case, then I'm really excited, because I thought it was great! Granted this 914 is the first I've ever ridden in/or driven, and only the second one I've ever seen in real life. As long as I don't ride in anything faster than mine, I should be okay for a while lol. I'm definitely not opposed to a subie or chevy swap, but it would have to be cheap. If I'm going to spend a lot of $$ I want a 914-6. I'm gonna have to sell a lot more bikes to make that happen!

Speaking of motorcycles...I get a pretty good discount on parts and accessories.

Will trade discounts on motorcycle parts and accessories, OEM Yamaha, or aftermarket anything for $$ in my paypal, even small amounts, or 914 parts of course.

For example: If you need a new tire, online you may find it for 229.99, I may be able to get it for 145, with shipping 160, you put $10 in my paypal, we call it a day! I make 10, you save 70 and everybody's happy! Free quotes of course!!!

"...was yer heat working???"

-Nope, it was all a mess all homemade repairs, riveted, duct taped, nothing worked electrically, I pulled all of it, not intending to re-install. Without Heat exchangers, it seemed like a lost cause. I'd rather have exhaust than heat exchangers. I'm planning on refurbishing the fresh air controls and installing seat heaters when I re-cover the seats. Springfield, MO is fairly mild climate wise. Our winter last year rarely dipped below 55, while our summer featured over 3 months of 90+ temps daily. I'm more concerned with air conditioning honestly. I know it's a controversial topic around here, but I've already got a hole in the front trunk and half an a/c setup. And I have allergies, so sometimes I need to be cool and out of the elements.

"P.S. what size 12pt bit did you use for the CV's? I need one, I'm about to swap my engine."

- I found a post somewhere on here saying you could find them at auto zone. Sure enough, they had a set in stock at my local store. Here's a Link, Part number is 25015, alternate part number is 108 and they are $12.99. I believe the size I used was 6mm, but it came in a set of 4 so I didn't need to know the size before buying.

I don't have any pictures for this post, but here's one of my favorite Porsche related videos of all time!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q2InbhpdYJI

Anyone else notice the motor... no timing inspection hole, dipstick location, etc. Bus motor?



Oh and

12 point

Thanks!

Update: VIN is 4732926101

Engine Serial # GD052378

You may be correct, while the motor is out the fan shroud should be updated. Someone here may have a spare. Also while you are in there see if you can source a set of 1.7 SSI heat exchangers, larger diameter exhaust, that motor needs all the love it can get. Duel carbs will give you a small performance boost but you really net to change the cam to get the full benefit. That's about all you can get from a 1.7 so clean her up and enjoy.

GD appears to be a Type II 2.0L engine case ...


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/archives/info/engine_letters.php

It's a 2.0 bus motor!!??!? Serial number prefix is GD indicating:

"GD 1976-77 VW Transporter 7.3:1 67hp@4200rpm 101ft-lb@3000rpm L-Jetronic f.i., solid lifter"

Not quite sure what to think....I loved how it ran, had to drive it like a truck lol, but I guess this is why!

So I guess my next question is...I don't even know what I've got. Is this thing worth anything, or better as just a "get me by" motor until I can get a real 2.0?

The heads and compression are the two factors against you. The 2.0 bus heads have very small valves and dished pistons. Depending on the condition of the bottom end, you could put some 96mm pistons and cylinders on as well as some better heads.

I would consider those heads, if they are 2.0 bus, and the carb boat anchors. The rest should be a decent starting point.

A real 2.0 is in the heads, and there are even better new heads available than those.

-Rob

You might want to start looking for a good core real 914 motor and rebuild it, then sell the 1.7L bus motor you have now. Samba would be a good place to list it.

Hmmm, I recently picked up a little '83 XT200 It doesn't need anything though

Update: Got married. Got over the fact that I have a bus motor. Bought a set of Rivieras. Worked up the courage to pull rocker panels. Got over the fact that I have rust. Ordered a Hobart Handler 140 and increased my Adderall dosage. Lets do this!


Is my hell hole missing lol? Also, is this the 1970 blue metallic paint? It was yellow originally, but I kind of like the blue.
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DAPO used what appears to be aluminum foil/really thin sheet metal and sheet metal screws to reinforce this car.
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Here are a bunch of pictures. Let me know what I'm up against.


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Got started disassembling the bus motor....

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and put the new wheels on and it appears I have an alignment issue, or something a little more serious maybe lol.

Passenger Rear Wheel
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And here's the same wheel, same tire, same tire pressure, on the drivers side rear. What am I missing?

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I'm hoping it's an alignment issue. I really love the way these tires and wheels fill the wheel wells, and I hope to install lower springs on the car in the rear eventually, so I'm wondering if you all think I'll have clearance issues, or if I just need to pull the fenders a little. The wheel and tire set came with three matching 195/60/15's with plenty of rubber left. If possible I'd rather only buy 1 tire and not 4, but I'm just not sure what to do yet. Suggestions welcome.

Congratulations to your hell hole and welcome to the club!

Hobart 140 is a great welde (I have the same) and you will need it a lot.
Your question about alignment might be related due o the bit of metal missing at your longs and the left vs right gap is most of the time not aligned.

If you ask me, stop spending time and money on the engine, whells and other stuff before you have fixed all the body issues. Search for hell hole and you will find all the infos you need and post a lot of pics here, great group of hobbyist and export.

You can do it!

Yeah I plan on doing all rust repair before re-installing drive train and interior. I've just been trying to stay busy while I wait on my welder. Couldn't pass up on a set of 4 clean polished rivs with 3 good tires for 160 and only 10 mins from me. I debated for a long time over what to do with the bus motor, sell it and buy a running 1.7, or keep it and seal it and search for new heads, but for now, I'm just going to get it cleaned up and sealed up and running because...hey a bus motor is better than no motor. Plus when I did drive it I thought it was awesome. Shows how many 914's I've ridden in lol.

2 quick questions and one opinionated longer one:

1. Anyone recognize this color? It was yellow originally, but my best guess is that the crappy paint job is the 1970 color blue metallic??
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2.

Do I need to do anything specific while doing rust repair to correct this rear wheel alignment issue? I don't want to get it all welded up and have a crooked wheel on one side. Or should I just start hacking off the rusty sections? I will be bracing the doors and checking gaps of course.
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3. I have viewed just about every "hell hole" thread and studied the "digging into hell" thread and I guess I'm as ready as I'll ever be. My question is this: Am I prolonging the inevitable? I'm at a fork in the road.....Try and save the 15 footer paint job and do all the repairs without cutting up the sheet metal......or......go for the gold and just start sanding and scraping and wire wheeling every inch of this car including cutting the passenger quarter panel for better access to everything. I have a hard time half-assing things but I'm afraid that if I don't make it a "rolling restoration" it'll be 8 years before I get to drive it. Before you answer, here's what you need to know:

Current Status: Interior mostly removed, engine and tranny pulled and partially disassembled, rockers pulled and did some cleaning.

Budget = (insert negative number here/credit card number)

Skills = everything but body work & welding (the purpose of this build is for it to be a learning experience and I would rate my mechanical skills and learning speed at above average, but my experience is very limited...that's where you guys come in)

Time = only limited by my procrastination (no kids, 1 wife, 1 bearded dragon, and 1 job)

Tools = Have/have access to/willing to buy/make anything and everything necessary

Goal = Clean, reasonably reliable, decent looking daily driver. Narrow body 4-cyl, 73 chrome bumpers, no spoiler


Tentative Plan 1 = major rust repair - hell hole/long, floor pan, and rear trunk floor. Seal up motor/tranny, new carpet, door panels, dash, and recover seats. then drive the crap out of it and slowly restore.

Tentative Plan 2 = Go nuts and sand/scrape/blast/cut everything, weld it all up, seal it all, paint it, new interior, reseal and freshen up drivetrain, maybe a subie swap if I can make some more $$. Take my time and make this car exactly what I want it to be.


Which direction to go......

Here is my motivation picture
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And a picture after I got the wheels on for the first time. Check out that ground clearance! LOL

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Congrat and you can save this one!
I'd agree you should stick with the current motor until you get the body done, then shop for a used Porsche 2.0 to rebuild and do it right.

Also, your cooling fan has at least one blade missing, so go find another as that will make it uneven.



and if you show your work and ask questions, this place is FANTASTIC for support and knowledge.

Thanks for saving another 914.

Make sure the suspension ear itself isn't compromised. Could be a bent trailing arm too ...

Put an engine in it. Seriously. Without the weight of the engine your suspension isn't at the normal ride height. If you want to be thorough and absolutely sure about the alignment, you need to put the engine back in (partially disassembled is fine). But if you do that, do it after you finish the hell hole work.

It's probably fine, unless you see evidence of damage somewhere else.

The rust doesn't look too bad. You can handle it.

Oh and don't start a huge restoration you can't finish. Better to drive an ugly car, than visit a project in your garage.

So it sounds like a good next step would be to tackle the hell hole. Once that is complete I can worry about alignment, bent trailing arm, etc.

I usually struggle with the question of "what to do next" and staying focused(I have ADHD), correct me if I'm wrong, but right now in my free time I can be cleaning areas around hell hole, making door braces, measuring & recording door gaps, and once doors are braced, start cutting cancerous metal away?

Also Still wondering if anybody recognizes that paint. If I knew I could get paint that matches pretty close I wouldn't be as hesitant to cut up the quarter panel to access the hell hole. Or can I work my way around it and do the repairs from inside the engine bay?

Thanks for all the help guys

-Blake

At the top of this page there is a link, '914 Info'. Find the body measurements and use those to confirm the condition. Leave the doors on and visually inspect the door gaps while working on the hell-hole. They should say nice and even.

Focus on the hell hole, make a cursory inspection of the straightness of the car (targa-bar to windshield measurement is the best one, plus door gaps) and lock it in. This thing isn't going into outer space. So don't build it like it is.

And the paint you've got on their will never be repeated. It's some mix, using paint formulas and tints that aren't available anymore. You'll never get that paint, but you can get something close. Since it's a color-change car, you can basically do whatever you want for color. Head to a paint store and look at their paint chip catalogs, or keep an eye on other cars on the road. You'll end up getting a color off a new car anyway (even if you went in with an original paint code). People tend to overestimate the accuracy of paint. There is no code or name or formula that will get you exactly right. The only way to match a color (any color) is to mix up the paint, test a sample and tweak it until you're happy. Searching for the name/code/formula is a waste of time, IMHO.

get rid of the carb - have fun. post more pictures.

Cool, now I've got a plan. Hopefully I can get started this weekend. Thanks for all of the input. I'm going to make this "hell hole" my bitch.

Now if I can only decide on a color..........