We after counting all the 26 bolts were out and they were, My son and I (son) holding the block up side ways me tapping on it for about 1 1/2 hrs it split, man that was a tight fit... here are some pic's any suggestions will be appreciated...

cool, did you use my video for assistance??

Looks like someone was running Quaker sludge or Pennzoil in that puppy. Have fun cleaning it!

Hi Richard. Now the real work begins! Check out this web site if you want to see how my old 2.0 is coming along. Lot's of pics if it's any help to you.
http://home.earthlink.net/~docsengine/914e...engine/id1.html

Sorry Jake have not ordered it yet used tha haynes book all i have for now will order the video though have not had a job in 3 mths just got a new on now I will order the tape I done this with Haynes book and help from this sight.

I love the look a of a 914 with it's ass in the air.

Paul

i had a girlfriend who called it my car's "mating position".

Talk about a backyard mechanic...

Get some big jack stands to put that car on before it falls on somebody! Those damn blocks will fall apart.
Geoff

Two of your rods are on upside down. Congrats on breaking it down.

Guy,

Very impressive with your rebuild on your site. Looks like there is more than meets the eye when doing a rebuild.
Nice job!

I hope you have a blow torch because what im telling you to do will save you big time and money:

Take your Haynes manual, tear out the engine pages that have to do with the engine. Drench them in gasoline and burn them.

Next, send kathy (at aircooled technolory- jake's place) an email with your address and billing information and get his video. I just kick myself for not having it upon disassembly. I would have saved myself lots of time and money... :headband:

You might also want to get that red How to Rebuild Aircooled VW book (cant remember the author).

BTW, nice 914!

the Author would be Tom Wilson

Yes, but tell us which two.

Interesting that one of the front cam bearing halves looks worn out but not the other half. The center main looks good. The cam wear doesn't appear to be that bad. What do the lifters look like?

As for the Tom Wilson book, I still have it next to me every time I assemble an engine.

What are your plans for the rebuild? more displacement, more cam?

Thanks for the pictures. I've never split a case before, and seeing it all apart is very interesting. It looks a lot more complicated than tearing down a standard chevy small block. I'm thinking I should order Jake's video too, just to have.

Those rods have no top or bottom.. They have zero offset and can be assembled any way you like. I assemble them with the bearing tangs toward the cam as a standard..

With two rods on "upside down" that tells me it was a factory engine- never torn down, thats the way they assembled them!

I have to disagree on that note, I thought the type 4 was very simple in design. You pull the engine apart and you get back and look at it, there is really not that much to it. The assembly on the other hand, I would strongly suggest you get Jakes video and the book. The spec when you put it back together can make or break the engine. Good luck with it.

I have that book if you want it, I am done with the air cooled engines. Once you go V8, there is no turning back.

Looks like I need to get together another big sale for videos...

How about we do it in a couple of weeks and I'll knock 10 bucks off the sale price. I have done this a couple of times but not in a couple of years..

BTW, We are shooting the performance video in March 2005 in my brand spankin new facility as well as a carburetor tuning video....

Lookin for a publisher for a certain book I have been workin on since 1996

BTW, The TIV may be very simple in design, but don't let it fool you. Experts don't exist- This engine teaches me something new and odd weekly.

Jake,

Let us know when you want to do a group buy on your video. I'll order one for sure. Does it come on DVD?

Supposedly they have the DVD issues worked out...

I have been reluctant to sell DVDs because so many didn't work..

There are so many players that the problem was pretty severe with some... All DVDs are sold with a doubt and against my will...

I took the block, crank and the cam to my engine place to have cleanned up and miced today the cam is well worn in the center the berings for the cam when took out were very worn. the 2 center lifters were coned both sides so replaceing the cam, the crank is still in good shape case housing is still in good shape have had the heads rebuilt I found some 90 mm jugs and pistons by Cofap, dont know how good these are but will be going back stock for daily driver, going to take body to body shop... NO BONDO has a rust spot by drivers door above door handle, jack hole where jack plug goes is rusted that means going to have to look at hell hole on that side drivers side... battery tray rusted but no rust on side where it is on the body the front trunk someone welded 1/4" plate to hold the spare tire will replace that with the right stuff... other than that well lets just say this this car was parked in one of my inlaws driveway for 6 1/2 yrs not running just sitting, was red tagged and took to scrap yard convinced inlaw to let me pay the salvage she stated she would pay the salvage and give this car to me for a little carpentry work on her house stated that was a deal so the car cost me besides my labor on house NOTHING. the car had real bad oil leaks as per previos post did replace 2 injectors did get to drive it but was not running right thus i started tearing it down. And will put it back togeather right will order Jakes video to put it back togeather I will put it back togeather myself NO ONE in this area Of West Texas will touch the engine so I will have to do it myself. orignal color was Signal orange. will take a LOT of time and patience but hey I will be giveing my age away here but I Graduated in 1973 and wanted one of these since then....reading all the post and posting the pic's have helped me a bunch and I thank you all for all the help that you guys and gals have given me.

Question:

Maybe I havent pulled apart any late 1.7 or 1.8's in awhile... but...

Did all late 1.7's/1.8's have baffle plates in them ??


B

this one did had to pull it out removeall plugs and bearings.

I just ordered Jakes video.... to go back to rebuilding the engine

I mostly deal with 2.0's and 6's... so the 1.7's and 1.8 engines are still somewhat of a mystery to me.


B

It also shows baffle plate in the haynes book dont have it by me but there is a pic of it and how to remove it, the only part that i could not remove at the engine place was the other oil pressure boster piston it has a 12 pt bolt, removed the one on the fromt but repair place did not have big enough 12 point to remove the secound one on the side so will leave it in there and the block will be cleanned..... would it be a good idea to replace those with the special ones that produce higher oil pressure, the car ran ok untill it warmmed up then the oil light would come on at idle after it warmmed up then higher rpm's it would go off???

I run the bigger pistons for oil pressure, but most of my engines are AutoX'd and/or road raced.

You can use the end of any decent 3/8 drive extension in that plug... it will come out.

Dont leave it in place...


B

I will go back tomrrow and take my 12 points and remove it...Thanks B

The only 914 spec TIV that did not have an oil baffle was the "W" case 1.7... It didn't even have a provision for one.

You need to use a 4 point, not a 12 point to remove that plug. 3/8" drive extension is perfect for the job, to clarify Brads advice.

I'm glad to see you're bringing it back from the grave.

will take 3/8 drive extention and will try it and it will work, but I swear it is a 12 point. will take pic of it. and also take pic's of all the berings and post them. they are in my parts runner 1985 suburban, left it in Lubbock test driveing 2003 Impala but keeping the parts runner...

Also I have taken pics from the time i recieved the car till now of everything that I do to it...

looking at the cam gear #'s was told that it was a -0- gear the part #021.109.111B VW 13H.
I checked prices was told to go with web cam cam shaft the cam gear is good But I dont know if I dont ask going back stock orignal equipment FI not new modifyed version so this is what it states at pelican for that cam

Web-Cam Stock Camshaft, 914 1.7/1.8/2.0 (1970-76), Each
WCAM-142 $130.00
The carbureted street performance cam is a great alternative cam for cars that have been converted to carburetion. These cams will give you better performance over the original stock cam whose lobes are ground with characteristics of the fuel injection system in mind. Lift .423, Duration 270 Degrees. For Use With Carburetors Or Aftermarket Fuel Injection Setups Only.

So can I use this cam with what I have stock FI don't want to go to aftermarket FI???

I don't know what response you will get from the others but, I am sending my cam and lifters to Elgin for a little more aggressive re-grind that they say will work great with stock d-jet. It's $95.00 for the cam and $5.00 a pop for the lifters, and they harden them. If youre not in a hurry you can wait until I get mine back together and I will let you know how it works out. Probably wont be for another 30-60 days though.

Web 73

Where do I find Jake's video?
I looked at both his web sites and couldn't find it.

I normally don't sell them myself but once per year at a big discount...

I'm so busy with engines that I don't have time for 1-2 sales a week and sometimes they slip my mind!

In two weeks we'll have a video sale day, I'll be announcing it soon, before the end of this week..

Is lack of an oil baffle bad (or good, or neither)?

In most applications the baffle does more harm than good. We have mods for it that help its efficiency.

From your own pictures, it looks like you've got a -3 cam gear to me.

Demick

sorry was looking for it in the part # not on the gear.

Re: the Oil Baffle/ Windage fixture are the rubber seals still available?
If so Where?

See that "B" suffix on the cam gear???

That means trouble- toss it and get an aftermarket gear before it wipes out on ya.. its made of Magnesium.

Yes the B was the first thing that caught my eye, at auto atlanta it stands for aftermarket was wondering about that... back to the block parts went in yesterday crank does not need to be machined good shape block is very good so I have compiled a list for parts from Pelican...
Main bearing set standard size-- 021-198-481A----------------------------$ 36.75
Connecting Rod bearing set standard size- 021-105-701A--------------- $ 12.00
Connecting Rod Nuts—113-105-427PAC------------------------------------$ 26.45

Camshaft bearing set, standard size—021-198-541------------------------$13.00
Web-Cam Stock Camshaft----WCAM-142---------------------------------- $136.50
? Web-Cam performance lifter set WCAM-263----------------------------$149.10

Motor Mount, Front—039-199-231 ea--------------$15.50------------------$ 31.00
______
$
Now they dont have the web cam gear -3n stock only the -0- 37.55 can a person order the cam w/ gear attached or can you only order them seprate and do you have to have the web cam lifters or can you go back with stock going to order parts Monday.

Rods were in good shape will have to take 2 Piston Pin/Connecting rod bushings to shop to get the clearance on the Wrist/ Piston Pin Bushings to see if those need to be replaced. Thanks Jake for the info on the cam gear.

One more Qusetion anyone know where i can find a Camshaft plug I wanna replace that also Pelican does not have? Thanks guys for all the help.