Also, when you flik the throttle, does it die immediately after?

Cold Start pulled, It starts and then stops in about 10 seconds. No big difference
AUX air valve same thing. Starts, runs not quite 20 seconds. The Elbow, Breather Hose/FI Aux Air Valve was cracked bad, so I rigged a hose on the end of the AUX air valve and ended the leak. Still it starts and runs for 20 seconds.

Did the 33x wire jiggle.

Checked all the hoses for leaks. Oil filter tight.

I wonder if the adjustment on the Air Flow Meter is turned too far in one direction?

I don't think it is flooding as it starts quickly. I think either too much air is getting in or something is not closing?

JAA

I think it's time to use your new fancy tool. Hook it up, and stare at the gauge till your engine dies. You should have 35 psi with engine not running, and 28 psi while running

well I think your right- except.......

I decided to try the aux air again. I pull the plug and the entire inside comes out! I look at the "stick" and the little cooling fins and they are all gunked up. Terrible. No way is anything working in there. So they are in the coke soak now.

With it out, the engine would start and die immediately. A few more trys- worse each time. I think I've found a major problem.

With luck- and I could use some- this will clean and I'll be able to put it back in. Any suggestions on having it seal?

I'm sure the cold start valve is an issue but i don't think its THE issue. I know it's colder in Oregon than SoCal, but my cold start injector is completely disabled. No fuel to it or signal from it and my car runs fine.

Check the AFM.

Sorry, I didn't mean oil filter cap, I meant to say oil fill cap. I'm also not sure what the current temperature is at your home town. I just wanted to rule out a couple of things before jumping to the AFM.
You say it runs for 20 secs before the engine dies. During the 20 secs, how does the engine sound? Is it missing, what is the idle RPM?
I would still like to see your fuel gauge hooked up, while your engine is running. The reasoning for this, you had pin 88d jumped out for some reason earlier by the PO, maybe the AFM fuel pump contacts are shot or intermittent. Having a fuel guage hooked up paints a better picture for me, so we can rule out your fuel system.
Just to clarify, if you start this engine, and don't touch anything, you'll get a solid 20 secs of run time, before it stumbles and quits?

Whereas, if you start this engine, and blip that throttle, it immediately dies?

More thought about this problem,
The dual relay does a few things regarding to your fuel pump. When trying to start your car, your ignition switch engages the dual relay in the start position. However, it's only momentary, because when you release the key from the "start" position, the dual relay loses that source of voltage. The dual relay THEN does a hand off, after the cranking cycle. The dual relay receives voltage from the AFM fuel contacts. This is where I think the problem lies.
During the "start" cranking position, your fuel pump is "on" and your fuel ring is pressurized. I'm thinking the hand off never happens, so your car runs till the fuel ring's pressure drops to nothing.
When you re-try to start your car, the fuel pump turns on again, thus the cycle repeats.

Connect your fuel pressure gauge, and lets rule out my hypothesis.

Towards your Aux Air Valve, if it was me, I would go to your local auto parts store, and buy a package of rubber caps. Then I would remove (temporarily) the hoses and cap the nipples. You'll need to cap the plenum side, then the plastic T side on the air boot. I would also remove the hoses for the decel valve/backfire valve and do the same. Your car will run without these items, and it would be a great way to isolate the problems. After we get your car running well, then you can reinstall (with new hoses). But for testing purposes, I would remove them if it was me.

Without your aux air valve, you will have a rough idle for the first minute or so. The engine will steady out when everything warms up.

This is great. Thanks Tim. The update is for some reason it stayed on, I drove it four laps around the house, pulled it in to the car port to mess with the throttle again, it stopped and has returned to its 20 second gig. I have to travel Monday, back Tuesday with more. Stay tuned.

Thanks again- I really appreciate it. This weekend has been 914 grad school

JAA

Yah, I'm sticking with my theory of the AFM fuel pump contacts being intermittent.
When you get back home, pry off the AFM plastic top cover. The insides should look similar to my super HD avatar

Locate the fuel pump contacts within
Click to view attachment

Now, go buy a rectangular eraser from your local Walmart. With this eraser, cut a long narrow strip. Wedge this narrow eraser strip between the fuel pump contacts, and proceed to rub and rub. Try not to bend the metal contact strips too much. I'm not sure what the gap should be, but it isn't much.

YOU ARE THE MAN!

I got it going, still miles from good (idle too high, not confident in relay, dash lights, signals, etc)- but I drove it and picked my son up from school in it! It was light and I have long arms to signal-

Thank you and the entire 914 world a ton-

Jason Atkinson
Oregon

Glad to hear it, and a pleasure to assist you thru this. I imagine that your fuel pump noise went away, since the engine lawn mower noise drowns it out?
Your high idle may be due to several vacuum leaks. I would get this fixed right away, as it may cause a back fire and ruin your functional AFM.

Thanks Mike and Ed, for your kind words earlier in this thread. I'm always ecstatic saving a Ljet from a possible carb retrofit.

Also, thanks to the Cap'n for taking time to email the Ljet manual to those that are seeking it.

BTW Jason,

I'm not so lucky. I followed all the directions inn this post and have everything wired correctly. I have done the Air Flow Sensor test and it checked out fine on resistance and voltage change. Fuel pump was wired to run continuously withg ignition "on", I think through the ignition switch which I know is bad, but I didn't wire it. Now that everything is wired right, the pump runs with the ignition in the off position! My realy has two numbers on it FI Side says 0332 514 129 and Ignition side (which I think is bad) says 071 906 059. Should I just order the 0332 514 120 relay that is discussed in the thread, if it's still available? Or are there additional tests I can conduct to really be sure that my ignition side of the relay is bad. Any help will be greatly appreciated.

We can go thru your system, but start a new thread.