Unless I missed something, you put it on TDC cyllinder #1 and set exhaust and intake valves.

Just checking but are they both open?
Does not seem to make sense to me.

Valves should open one at a time unless you have a high overlap camshaft, then they will both be 'partially' open during that overlap period only.

If both your valves are open 'a little' or 'tight' at TDC, then you need to rotate the crank 360° again to get to the compression TDC of that cylinder and adjust the valves at that point.

Tdc #1 combustion both valves would be closed- seated and that is the point that you should be able to feel a little wiggle in the rocker arms. This is the gap you are trying to adjust. Your dist. rotor should also be pointed at the tower for the #1 plug wire.

I prefer the factory method (one cylinder at a time) simply for its certainty. Nothing wrong with the other methods though.

I do em all at the same time.

That's what he was doing. Put it on TDC, and then set exhaust and intake valves. Since they are both open, you can do them all at once. And everyone knows you always adjust valves when they are open. Pay attention.

They're both closed with that method. Valves are always adjusted closed on most 4 cycle engines. My technique is FAR easier, though .................

The Cap'n

Krunk has a non-most engine. Wait, did Capn say always and most in the same sentence?

There you go, just adjust everything so they are all closed. Since closed is binary, you no longer have to worry about the various levels of it. This is genius. I'm sending it to Clymer.

Oh okay. I also do without feelers guages. Just loosen them until they barely wiggle.

I said "most" because solid lifter pushrod Chevys and Audis are adjusted running at full operating temperature. Why would Clymer care about doing things either the best way or the easy way? They're so far behind real life they'll never catch up. They parrot the factory way no matter what. Haynes, too.

The Cap'n

Exactly why I think they would buy the Krunk method.

Sorry Cap, this has eroded to nonsense.

Perfect. This is not an exact science. These are NARPs.

OK

Here is the answer....
Turn until Rocking: Adjust:
#2 Ex & #3 In #4 Ex & #1 In
#1 Ex & #2 In #3 Ex & #4 In
#4 Ex & #1 In #2 Ex & #3 In
#3 Ex & #4 In #1 Ex & #2 In

While I agree your method is easy, my method of doing one cyclinder at a time is just as easy and foolproof. Having done this two weekends ago, it took me about 15 seconds to get the engine from TDC of one cyclinder to TDC of the next one. When I first got my car, I put a mark 180 degrees from the TDC mark on my flywheel. Now I just watch for the marks in the window at the bottom of the transaxle.

Well then why are u asking us ....you're on point

Start another thread for the next round of responses

I agree with cevan. I'm a fool I prefer and I prefer "foolproof" . I understand Krusty's method and would use it on close to stock cams. I run a 163/86b. My flywheel is marked. I don't bill for my hours, it's a hobby, so I do it the hard way. Hard way takes less than 2 hours from wheels up to wheels down.

Carlos