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Full Version: Fiberglass flare installation- Rivet on!
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Trekkor
Wanting more tire, the time finally came to go wider body.

Here, you can see how easy and fast you can produce a good looking flare install.
I started with professionally painted flares and plastic edge molding.

Measure and mark the car carefully before cutting:


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After holding/clamping the flares in their finished position, trace a light pencil line along the outside edge of the flare onto the car.
Apply 2" masking tape to the line.
The inside edge of the tape becomes your cut line: sawzall-smiley.gif

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KT
Trekkor
I used both the sawzall and a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade.

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The sawzall was good for starting both ends and the jigsaw was good for the rest.

KT
Trekkor
Takes a bit of courage and confidence to hack into a really nice looking car!

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KT
Trekkor
Run the molding over the flare edges, leaving them long.
Hold/clamp the flare to the car and drill through both the flare and the steel to accommodate a large head rivet. A helper may be useful.

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Start at each end and carefully fit the flare to the contour of you car.
You can decide how many rivet to use and the spacing you like.

Drill the holes about 1" from the molding.
Remember, there is 2" of surface to mount your flares.


KT
Trekkor
Take your time, double check before any cutting or drilling.

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KT
Trekkor
After you are done, trim the excess molding with a fresh razor knife.

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8" front wheels, 10" rears.

The flares can be quickly removed for repair or replacement.
Also, if you decide to go with metal flares in the future, nothing done will interfere with that process.

Hope this helps someone!


KT
Trekkor
This is how much rear tire I gained!!

11" tire on a 10" rim:

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KT
Woody
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I have grown to really like the look.
Trekkor
QUOTE
I have grown to really like the look.


Me too. Nice look with the two tone.
Thanks for the post.


KT
Woody
No problem buddy and thanks. I borrowed the look from the car on the Patrick Motorsports page which looks very similar to Randals car as well. I didn't use the fender beading as you did. Looking back I wish I had because gravel and other junk gets trapped in between the glass and sheet metal.


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gothspeed
Ahhhh wonderful flares ............. biggrin.gif

Hey woody, if you don't mind me asking, what size spacers are you running front/rear on your cookie cutter wheels?
Woody
QUOTE(gothspeed @ Nov 2 2012, 04:17 PM) *

Ahhhh wonderful flares ............. biggrin.gif

Hey woody, if you don't mind me asking, what size spacers are you running front/rear on your cookie cutter wheels?



25mm on each wheel with the cookie cutters or the BBSs. The spacers are from a 944. Sometimes I will run an additional 5mm spacer on top of the 25s but only for street use. I wouldn't run stacked spacers for angry driving. Most sanctioning bodies wont allow bolt on spacers either, they must be the pass through type with longer studs.
gothspeed
QUOTE(Woody @ Nov 2 2012, 02:27 PM) *

Stacked 25mm on each wheel with the cookie cutters or the BBSs. The spacers are from a 944. Sometimes I will run an additional 5mm spacer on top of the 25s but only for street use. I wouldn't run stacked spacers for angry driving. Most sanctioning bodies wont allow bolt on spacers either, they must be the pass through type with longer studs.



Right on man! ....... this info will help me choose stud lengths when I finally get my flares welded on ...... beerchug.gif
Trekkor
I found a few more pics:

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KT
Dasnowman
QUOTE(Trekkor @ Nov 2 2012, 11:56 AM) *

Run the molding over the flare edges, leaving them long.
Hold/clamp the flare to the car and drill through both the flare and the steel to accommodate a large head rivet. A helper may be useful.

Start at each end and carefully fit the flare to the contour of you car.
You can decide how many rivet to use and the spacing you like.

Drill the holes about 1" from the molding.
Remember, there is 2" of surface to mount your flares.


KT



Love this write up what flares are these where they from link? So do they come with a template or you just outline the outside of the flare then measure 2" in?

I was thinking about doing this but this write up it's a forsure now! thanks

What prepwork did you do to the cars cut fenders to prevent rust?

Also have you ever thought of using plusnuts or rivnuts on the body then use SS button nose screws and washers to hold them on? I think thats the root I will go.
Krieger
Dang KT those look good! Where were you when I did my flares?
Woody
QUOTE(Dasnowman @ Nov 4 2012, 03:53 AM) *

QUOTE(Trekkor @ Nov 2 2012, 11:56 AM) *

Run the molding over the flare edges, leaving them long.
Hold/clamp the flare to the car and drill through both the flare and the steel to accommodate a large head rivet. A helper may be useful.

Start at each end and carefully fit the flare to the contour of you car.
You can decide how many rivet to use and the spacing you like.

Drill the holes about 1" from the molding.
Remember, there is 2" of surface to mount your flares.


KT



Love this write up what flares are these where they from link? So do they come with a template or you just outline the outside of the flare then measure 2" in?

I was thinking about doing this but this write up it's a forsure now! thanks

What prepwork did you do to the cars cut fenders to prevent rust?

Also have you ever thought of using plusnuts or rivnuts on the body then use SS button nose screws and washers to hold them on? I think thats the root I will go.


I taped the fenders up till I got the position I liked, then outlined them with a sharpie, then used that line to lay my tape. I used 2" masking tape as my cut line. Then I used 1" tape on the fenders to plot where I was going to rivet. I painted all rough sheet metal edges with a stick of touch up paint. Looks like Trekkor and I used a very similar method.
aircooledtechguy
I actually prefer the riveted/bolted-on look and really dig the two-tone look as well. aktion035.gif
Trekkor
FYI:
The source of my tires!

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KT
Jeff Hail
I think you need to flare that open wheeled chair next. Just doesnt look right with all that rubber hanging out.

Dasnowman

I'm exceited got an email saying me flares are at the depot for pick up, not sure if I'm more nervous or exceited... confused24.gif piratenanner.gif

That's a lot of fender that's going to be coming off, I noticed that both cars don't have sidemarkers where do they end up being my car still has them?
cary
DrChapman (Gary) has them on his 6. I think they look great.
Trekkor
My side markers were welded up before I had the car painted.


KT
The Metal Surgeon
QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 29 2012, 05:03 PM) *

I think you need to flare that open wheeled chair next. Just doesnt look right with all that rubber hanging out.



or you could do this......


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16hrs start to finish
Bartlett 914
QUOTE(The Metal Surgeon @ Nov 30 2012, 01:07 AM) *

QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 29 2012, 05:03 PM) *

I think you need to flare that open wheeled chair next. Just doesnt look right with all that rubber hanging out.


or you could do this......

16hrs start to finish


Looks really good. It would be nice to see more on the welding as you were fitting it in. Is this all weld? Did you need to use filler?
pete-stevers
hope you where careful around the oil tank.... brings back memories...I didnt nick mine either
and it looks super!
yeahmag
I'm so tempted to do this myself... I'm already heading down the slippery slope of dry sump and a 5 lug conversion with raised spindles.
VaccaRabite
This thread is not about welding. There are dozens of threads about that. This is about an alternative to welding, and I have always liked the riveted look.

That said, I think I would use Dzus fittings instead of regular rivets. Then it is really easy to take them off and on for maintenance or repairs.

Zach
Dasnowman
QUOTE(Vacca Rabite @ Nov 30 2012, 10:51 AM) *

This thread is not about welding. There are dozens of threads about that. This is about an alternative to welding, and I have always liked the riveted look.

That said, I think I would use Dzus fittings instead of regular rivets. Then it is really easy to take them off and on for maintenance or repairs.

Zach


Not sure what Dzus are but I'm going the riv nut/plus nut option instead of rivits. I used to use them all the time to install custom racks and tracks on people cars trucks etc the are strong removable and water proof if you want them to be.

I like the rivit on option for looks, ease of use for repair, and the easy option to go with metal weld on if I want without the mess of trying to take f/g molded ones off later.
Chris H.
QUOTE(The Metal Surgeon @ Nov 30 2012, 01:07 AM) *

QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Nov 29 2012, 05:03 PM) *

I think you need to flare that open wheeled chair next. Just doesnt look right with all that rubber hanging out.



or you could do this......


16hrs start to finish



Wow. Incredible...prettiest flare graft I have ever seen.... Just clear coat that panel and be done with it. No paint needed.
Dasnowman
QUOTE

Wow. Incredible...prettiest flare graft I have ever seen.... Just clear coat that panel and be done with it. No paint needed.



It's nice but I will be in for a couple hunder bucks this looks more like a couple of Thousands more then I paid for the car and all it's parts so far.!
Randal
QUOTE(Trekkor @ Nov 2 2012, 10:56 AM) *

Run the molding over the flare edges, leaving them long.
Hold/clamp the flare to the car and drill through both the flare and the steel to accommodate a large head rivet. A helper may be useful.

Start at each end and carefully fit the flare to the contour of you car.
You can decide how many rivet to use and the spacing you like.

Drill the holes about 1" from the molding.
Remember, there is 2" of surface to mount your flares.


KT



As usual, nice job Trekkor. You have an amazing eye for getting the look just right and the determination and skills to pull off the modification.

Ha, bet my car, with the new configuraiton, is wider than yours!
Trekkor
We need to do that three flared car a/x reunion next season!

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Thanks, Randal.
I still owe you for the help back in 4/04 at Marina!


KT
Randal
QUOTE(Trekkor @ Dec 1 2012, 11:21 AM) *

We need to do that three flared car a/x reunion next season!

Click to view attachment

Thanks, Randal.
I still owe you for the help back in 4/04 at Marina!


KT



What help? confused24.gif

My car in another 3/4" lower in the front now. Really slammed.
Trekkor
QUOTE(Randal @ Dec 2 2012, 04:34 PM) *

What help? confused24.gif



You were my first a/x instructor ( 4/2004 )

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KT
bulitt
Ex Crackers Flares-

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0396
QUOTE(Woody @ Nov 2 2012, 11:40 AM) *


Woody,p
Quick question, where did you purchase the front spoiler?

You two have to be pretty BRAVE to do all that your selves!

Congrats!
DBCooper
I like that riveted look. Says "Yeah, that's right, I'm bad and I'm gonna FUCK with you." Like tattoos did back in the days when only sailors had them.
Woody
QUOTE(396 @ Dec 3 2012, 06:41 AM) *

QUOTE(Woody @ Nov 2 2012, 11:40 AM) *


Woody,p
Quick question, where did you purchase the front spoiler?

You two have to be pretty BRAVE to do all that your selves!

Congrats!

Bought it on eBay years ago. I may go with a different one but not sure yet.
SirAndy
QUOTE(bulitt @ Dec 3 2012, 04:09 AM) *

Ex Crackers Flares-

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idea.gif idea.gif smash.gif welder.gif w00t.gif
SirAndy
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Dec 3 2012, 12:23 PM) *
idea.gif idea.gif smash.gif welder.gif w00t.gif

Quick mockup in red with red bumper ... popcorn[1].gif

Rand
You anodized it! Nice! ;p

I like it. One body color is contiguous. Keep going though and you'll have to trailer it.
bshounen
lov'n the fenders, i would like to see some old school stuff like sum cut front oem fronts weld'd to the rears. would do it on my 914 but, im going the lmp rt...
CptTripps
I'll be riveting my next flares like this. There's a certain look I'm going for, and ultimately it'll just be easier.

Cool thread.
waltonsm
To revive an old thread....

What flares/rockers are these? Widths, mfg, etc. Are they still available? I see the front flare actually is large/forward enough to probably cover the side marker cutout. Are there more pics of this car?

Steve

QUOTE(bulitt @ Dec 3 2012, 04:09 AM) *

Ex Crackers Flares-

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