the one closeup picture of the pass side is the only rust. its only surface in the seam. i'm taking the very nice org carpeting in and having it prof cleanned today.

kevin

two

three

four

five

Start prying up the tar...

SURPRISE!

take up all the tar? are you crazy? i worried some off the edges near the the inner longs, and it was good metal. some issues will be lived with. if i do not draw the line somewhere and get this thing on the road, i will be geoff's punching bag and will not be able to show my face at anything porsche related.

kevin

Nah....but I would then make you a t shirt that says I suffer from DirkWrightsDisease!
Geoff

Don't be a wuss and remove the tar!

cheers,

Jeroen

What he said. The low spots, like in the channels, probably are
rusted. Also I don't know why there's so many spots on the
sides of the longs. I can't relate since my tar wasn't painted
except on the floor.
Mark S.
'70 914-6

Unfortunately I don't have any "before tar removal" pictures, but here is what I found afterwards on my "rust free" car.

My floors looked nice like yours. Surprise. Luckily it's just surface rust. Treated it with the POR system. Marine Clean, Metal Prep, and POR-15.

And yes, it took about 40 hours to do it!

Good luck!

What is the best stuff to remove the tar with?

Heat gun, putty knife, patience.

Then a solvent to clean up the traces.

-Rusty

I think everyone has already said what I would have said.

I'd remove the tar. Oh wait, I did.

That's what I'll be doing this weekend. Is putty knife best because it flexes?? I picked up a metal scraper that looks more like an ice scraper. It's got a blunt surface, as well as a hooked edge (like a bottle opener) for getting hard to reach places.

Forty hours?? Has anyone ever tried fire?

Jen

It takes 2 hours to pull the tar up with a heat gun in one hand and 3 inch wide puddy knife in the other. I can strip the center tunnel in 15 minutes. The key is heating the tar paper evenly and following behind your heat gun with the puddy knif while the paper is just the right temp. Too hot and its gooey... too cold and it breaks apart into small annoying pieces.

B

I guess by the end of this weekend I'll be well versed in the ways of the heatgun and putty knife, huh? Damn! I'd *just* gotten all the grime out from under my nails. LOL

Jen

I wire brush wheel works good on the seam sealer.

Wear gloves

wait until you get POR-15 under your nails!
it'll stay with you for a while, makes for nice leopard spots ...

Andy

not as bad as getting herculiner on your hootus.

Jen

Oh, great ... another thing I have to worry about on my car. The bottom of my floorpan is pretty much rust free so can't I just assume that the interior (under the tar) is also rust free?

heh heh heh heh! (insert evil laugh)

Guess you'll never know unless you whip out the heat gun and the scraper!

We're not screwing with you. Everyone is right. Even the most rust-free cars tend to collect moisture underneath the tar in the channels.

Regards,

Karl

this is how it looked before i took the tar out, no obvious rust visible, just orange paint, carpet glue and dust ...



and this is after i removed the tar, the rust is now clearly visible,
the patch in front of the drivers seat was actually just one big rust hole!

I can't hear you (sticks fingers in his ears) la-la-la-la-la ...

i will think about this adventure NEXT winter. the rust, how ever much there is, can't get that much worse in the next 6 months. like i said i want this car on the road. ginter, with all the pre-rust cut items in your car removing the tar must have been easy. removing the metal pieces with the tar still attached.

kevin

Oh yeah, peice a cake!

Cake.. rust.. what's the difference? ;-)

I started taking the tar off of my 914 today. I planned on doing it on the passanger side anyway because there were a few rust holes I found while poking around from underneath at my longs. This first picture if what it looked like up top before I scraped off the tar.

This is the after pic. I simply used a chisel since I dont have a heatgun.

John

Hi John,

If I didn't say so already... welcome to the BBS!

Looks like a pretty clean job with just a chisel. Those holes should be pretty easy to repair. Have you peeked into the center tunnel?

-Rusty

Thanks for the welcome. I havent taken the tar off of the center tunnel yet but I plan to. I couldnt find any rust holes from the bottom in the tunnel. I just changed the shifter bushings and I didnt notice anything bad. So far the only suprise in this car has been the following picture. It was covered in bondo that someone did a very good job on. I didnt even notice it was bondo until I started sanding the body down to be painted.

Welcome to the board John.

Andy,


How'd you repair that rust in the front left pan? Whole pan? Just the area form another pan? New generic sheet in that area?

Does anyone know what guage sheetmetal the floorpans are? I'm going to have to do a little patching.

John

I'm not sure but I think it's around 18 gauge.

So do floor pans usually rust from the inside out? or is it a 50-50 kinda thing?

I've always figured my floors were pretty rust free seeing as they looked pretty good from under the car and there wasnt anything to speek of above the tar. But this thread has me thinking I should at least look a bit closer.

yeah, i got a replacement pan from HPH ...