Hi all,

I am installing the frame stiffners from Restoration Design on my '73. do i need to install the jack receiver plate first or does the part on the stiffner replace it? any advice or tips for the install are welcome.
BTW does anyone know if Restoration design has the lower wheelhouse P331 in stock? or will I have to wait for a production run?

Thanks,
Keith

If your jack posts are bad, you will need to replace them before installing the overlays.
If the area of the long behind the quarter panel is good, I would cut the end off the
stiffener and not fool with it.

Huh?

They get welded on top of the overlay... how could you weld them on first and then put the overlay on?

The RD overlays have the a section that goes over the existing jack post area. (see picture) my question is can this part be used without a new jack post plate under it? The brad m. kit is the one that new jack posts go on top of. the restoration design ones are different.

Find out if they are attached already or if they come with the kit. It looks like they are however, I got RD longs (not the overlay kit) and the jackposts were seperated and got welded on after...

Now, that being the case, my bad, sorry Daniel. It looks as though (from the pic) it may lay over top of everything. He be right, fix it first if there's a problem then overlay and weld.

Thanks
I will fix the post first then go over everything with the overlay. If anyone has more advice on installing the overlays please post it.
I will post pictures of the install when I finish.

Keith

This is not a replacement outer long. The part in the picture is an overlay made to be welded over a complete stock outer long. Some people use 'em to cover up the nasty and some use them to "reinforce" although the outer long is actually just a cap over
the true "frame" of the car-----The Longitudinal.

If I am not mistaken, you won't be able to weld the rear section under the quarter
panel. You may be better off trimming the overlay.

I am doing massive amounts of rust repair so I have already cut part of the rear quarter panel away for access. I will be replacing the outer long first, then installing the overlay.
I am going to por the inside of the long. does anyone have any ideas on rust protection for the area that is under the overlay? should I put the overlay over bare metal then por the out side? or should I use weldable primer? or...?

yes. and/or metal ready or similar product. don't leave any bare metal behind anything ...

Andy

I would POR "most" of it (surface area) and then have a can of Zinc primer for the areas that you'll be welding (seams or edges).

thanks guys,
prime and por combo sounds best. right now I am still trying to get the longs back together after cutting out the rust. what a mess.

Daniel,

You "speak" like you have some good info on how this is done. Experience ?? LOL

Take some pics Jet1 and show us what you are working on.



B

pics will be posted soon. you guys will think I am crazy for trying to save this thing, but I have time off from school right now so I thought it's worth a try!

Have mig welder...will travel. I personally would have told you to patch the outside cover and run the inner frame rail stiff kits Engman sells. Daniel nailed it when he said "the outside is just a frame rail cover". You'll be fine. RD sells some pretty nice stuff.



B

Brad, I wish it were that easy. the car is in bad shape but I have most of the sheet metal and the time. here are some pics.

the bad spot!!

forgot the pic

another

Just from the outside appearance.. it looks pretty good. Glad to see you making an effort to save it. I know NY isnt friendly to early Porsches.


B

another

Pretty smart preloading the chassis with the crossbar. Keep taking measurements on the drivers side while you slowly weld that back up. It will want to shrink..closing your door gaps.


B

Not yet. But I will soon enough. Thank God my car isn't in too bad of shape.
I remembered 'cause I'm in good shape back there under the quarter and I'll
most likely cut that end off.

Whoa! ouch. Mine aint that bad. Keep it up man.

Thanks Brad,
I learned to brace up the car by lurking here before I started. the measurement seems to be holding steady for now, but I will keep an eye on it while I weld.

thanks Daniel,
I will. As long as the coffee keeps flowing! now its a nice day to work, so back to the car I go!

Preload the tub. Stretch the car apart PAST the measurement prior to welding.


B

OK, about how much do you think it will shrink?

3-4 mm's at least. I see a lot of welding to be done. I cant stress how important it is to keep checking the measurements. I would also set aside several days for welding. Let it cool overnight.


B

Once you get the piece tacked in, don't start at one end and go all the way across.
Alternate side to side. Don't let the heat build up on you!

Thanks again,
I think it will take me a couple days regardless so not a problem. Now the coffee break is over and back to the car!

Keith, welcome to the club, you definately have your work cut out for you.I used the same pieces from restoration design, Chris Foley of CFR Welding/ Tangerine Racing welded them in for me with some other rust repair work. Definately would not cut off the rear tabs that is the added strength to the rear long. The stiffener does go over everything including the jack post. Chris welded my on with the rear fenders still on the car!!! Good Luck.