I'm thinking of converting the Zambezi Green car over to 5 lug Fuchs (no flares) and am trying to understand if 5 lug suspension pieces are really necessary versus just drilling the current hubs?

This will not be a track or autocross car...simply a driver. I actually do have the parts to convert (struts and stuff from a 1970 911); however, I was just wondering if there is any reason to actually make the conversion for a street driver.

Other than the benefit of getting the bigger 911 brakes on the front, is there a strength, reliability, adjustability, etc. issue?

Thoughts?

I am changing my to 5 lugs . I think i am going whit the drill hub.i whant to keep car close to original as possible .is just every other day driver .

If your not putting a lot of miles on the car then drilling isn't a bad option. A lot of miles means drilling a new rotor every time one wears out.

Ive had both options. The drilling of the hubs worked fine although I feel a lot more confident in having the factory 5 lug conversion.

I'm thinkin' put a 911 front suspension on like from an SC where you get M calipers and drill the rears. That would be very close to a -6 with the vented fronts and able to keep the parking brake in the rear. You probably know -6 rear calipers are unobtanium ... why mess with sourcing $$$ rear stub axles ...

Drilling the rears I think is fine. Use all 914 bits except have the 914 rotor drilled for 5-lug.

You can drill the 914 front rotor ok but the next time you change rotors you have to re-drill.

Benefit of 911 front end (a-arm + strut) is bigger brakes, vented rotor, integrated underbody sway bar (I hope this doesn't start a battle ). They can be found inexpensively and they bolt right in. You can always use the 911 strut by itself with the proper ball joint.

As little use as most of our cars get, I would imagine that a rotor lasts a long time. Does someone sell predrilled rotors?

Like I said, I do have all the bits to convert; however, I'm just not seeing the benefit of making a full conversion. Would it be awesome? Absolutely!

But for the casual driver what are the benefits of a full conversion? Is braking really that much better?

Good questions, Bill.

I bought pre-drilled rotors about 9 years ago. 25,000 miles later, they don't show much wear at all. I bought them from a shop in Temecula Ca. I'm not sure if they are still in business.
Ap.

Did you really have to ask "Who sells Predrilled Rotors ?"

PMB the fish guy

Lots of things to weigh but, as stated early on, drilling the hubs and rotors can net you a very safe solution for much less.

If you go the factory route you'll be in for struts, inserts, rotors and new calipers. Check out my 5-lug conversion thread and it should weigh out all of the options.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=105728

Signed... The Fish Guy (not sure what that means but if Jeff said it then...)

Salmon

What would the price be for your parts?
the Cheap-elite option.

Front rotors (drilled 5 lug)
Rear rotors (drilled 5 lug)
Rear hubs (drilled with extra boss applied)

I would hold off on studs until I figure out what wheels and spacers I will use.

Rich

If you don't mine I will be interest in price two .i need same thing but whit studs for 6x15 wheels

What's the deal with all the piggy backers?

Rich,

Are you doing pressed studs or screw-in? I just did screw-in on non-bossed later year hubs. Quite cool. Plus if you decide to use longer (or shorter) studs, they can be removed with some heat.

screw in works for me, and according to Eric's article it makes more sense.

We are not piggy backing, we are getting more facts for you to decide which way to go forward.
Assuming price is one of the input variables to your decision making process.

rich

I was teasing...the more the merrier. Maybe we can talk Eric into a group buy?

Ok, it's time ................

Three reasons:

1.) More choices in REAL Porsche wheels.

2.) Bigger brakes (I drive fast).

3.) To be able to hold your pinky up, drink whine, eat cheese and wear gold chains.

Sorry .i didn't know you we're so delicate . I was thinking the more people the better the deal . I am out

Clearly, you didn't see my followup post a couple posts down. Who's the delicate one now?

You still the delicate.you make the coment

So... NARP denial is a factor?

I know you are but what am I?


Now, back to our regularly scheduled program

I'm hoping Eric will chime in and tell us about the group buy he is planning

Man you girls have been BUSY!

Group Buys give me the hives.

Bill, I just ordered some more rotors in today so I can sample it for cost. Next month we'll be running a "Spring Brake" special so I'll see if I can get rotor prices down with that and have something that makes sense.

That would be great. I hope to have my Fuchs in next week. Two are 16x6 and two are 16x7 so based on threads the search turned up I'll be researching tire sizes to avoid interference issues.

Based on my needs the drilled rotors sound like the right solution for me.

Bill - Good luck fitting 16x7 on a stock body.

My limited research indicated that it's a crap shoot. Someone had good luck with 205/45-16 tires. I really want to avoid rolling the fenders or pulling them out. I'll give it a shot and if they don't fit then it may be time to trade them for 16x6's.

They won't fit.

What Eric said.

Yes they will.

Dont you mean Unicorn Guy?

Here's 225/50/16 on 16x7. The rear fender needed to be pushed out about 1 inch to fit. It's still pretty tight but then again we like it tight, right?

"Push out" the fenders that Scotty B just painted?

Not given his criteria (no pull no bend)

No fender mods will be done!

I will look for a pair of 16x6's if the 205/45-16's don't fit!

I am running 16x6's with 205/50's on bone stock fenders. They fit perfect. In fact, I put spacers on the front to fill the wheel wells a little better.

Even if it fit, the ride on the 45's would suck. Our old cars don't like super low profile tires on public roads.

I did see a thread where someone put 16x7 on the front and 16x6 on the rear. I wonder if that would look weird....

He said 6's and 7's... your hood has a few scratches BTW.

Yes, but just look at those rockers!

Probably not...

Very funny.....

Those scratches should all be gone this summer. Along with side marker lights and possibly some other minor mods.

Now, back to the wheels....

With all the cars and money you have spent, what's a measly $1200 for a set of 15 X 6 fully restored (Al Reed) Fuchs stopping you from purchasing?

BTW ... 15 X 7 Cookies with 185/65 tires fit.

16 x 7 1/2

And where are those?

Stacked in my shop as if you didn't know.

I run Cookies as I like them better.

I've test fit 16x7's in the rear with 205/50/16's and one side fit but the other side was just a bit on the fender. i think you could use rear alignment shims and throw a little negative camber to get the wheels and shave the inner fender a bit but it can be done

@sixnotfour - who did the cut/weld on widening? Do you have final wheel specs (offset, etc) on what fit? What size tire?

I like those a lot. I have an early 911 project that needs exactly that type of wheel. 7R are just not going to cut it.

I just found a complete 1970 suspension (F&R) for $200. Looks like a 5 bolt conversion is in my future. I have the full front setup plus the rear hubs to convert.

I want the front vented rotors so that I can put cooling ducts on them at the track. The summer in TX is brutal on brakes.

I just need to figure out the rear brake situation.