Andy, this has shown a lot of great, quality work!

Can't wait to see he rest!

Thomas

I stubled across a couple more coolant pipe photos.

Here's how I did my shift linkage. I know that from time-to-time some have posted cable shifter ideas for the 901/915/Subie/etc. Here's how I did my Audi 01e 6 speed.

I did try at first to prototype a rod linkage, but the resultant angles were just not condusive to good action as the Audi shift shaft is oriented transversely and is high on the housing, so I gave that up pretty quickly.

So on to a cable shifter solution, I first thought about designing a cabin shifter to suit all my needs. I quickly found that OEM shifters had nearly all the features I needed, so I went that way instead of designing and fabricating my own. I decided to go with a Toyota shifter. There are others, but I figured the Toyota would be the easiest to find. I didn't consider the Boxster shifter, as it's plastic construction doesn't lend itself well to modification. So off to the local Pick-and-Pull and I struck gold. I found MR2, '90's Celica, and '88 Tercel shifters....I also found a Mitsubishi shifter, but I figured the three Toyota shifters would be plenty enough to choose from. The MR2 shifter was nearly plug-and-play, however it didn't have quite enough gate travel for 3 gates plus the reverse gate for a 6 speed application. Just a quick note; the MR2 shifter in a nice piece for those looking to do a 5 speed shifter. The Tercel shifter was reall quite nice as well, but also suffered from a lack of gate travel. I settled on the Celica shifter mostly beacuse of the ease by which the gate limit stops could be modified. I re-configured the shifter base so that it would mount to the existing 914 shifter bolt pattern, though I did move the shift lever position back about 1 1/2" as the stock 914 position was just a bit of a stretch for me. Also, I wanted to keep the shifter low enough for a subsequent console, so I re-configured the cable bulkheads to maintain a low profile. Because there are so many gates on a 6 speed, I wanted to employ a reverse lock-out. I did this by sliding a thin wall tube over the shift lever that is actuated by a finger flange under the shift knob with a spring to keep it in the down position. At the bottom of the tube, I welded a tab that when in the down position, obstructs the shifter from entering the reverse gate.

On the transaxle, I set out to design the correct lever ratios to match the travel of the shifter, and to translate the motions for the correct directions necessary. I needed a bellcrank to reverse the gate action, so I went down to my favorite aircraft surplus store, Lucky's Hardware, in Burbank, CA (a great place!) and found a circular flange mounted to a duplex bearing used for small aircraft control systems; $4 each, so I bought 2 of them. I designed and fabricated the linkages, levers, bulkheads, and zinc plated everything.

To get the exact push-pull cable lengths required, I had a coil of high pressure nylon brake line left over from my old GoKart racing days, which I fed through the firewall, to the shifter, and marked. I ordered my push-pull cable from CableCraft, who I've been using for years. A phone call to their tech guy, custom length, any bulkhead, any end, any travel, a credit card, and it's in the mail within a couple of days. Great company to work with!

Hope the attached photos are adequate to show what I did....ask if you have any questions.

Time to get back to posting more retrospective build photos, so I decided to show the exhaust sytem next.

The stock LS1 headers exit in the wrong place (pointing straight at the axles), so after a little digging, I decided to go with stock LS6 Vette headers. They are thin wall cast iron, tri-Y design, and surprisingly light weight. What I like about these headers, they have some real nice heat shields, aren't prone to leakage like tubing headers, suppport 405HP (which is plenty good for the LS1), and dump on an angle somewhat centered so it's perfect for my application.

The exhaust pipe routing is up-over the axles, which I made from some 2 1/2" stainless mandrel bends from Summit. The flange that bolts to the header wasn't available as an aftermarket part, so I made my own such that it will sandwich the stock Vette donut gasket. The flange is made of mild steel, so I used some 312 stainless rod that's recommended for carbon steel to stainless welds. As an aside, I found this rod is very nice to work with, and I used it on a few other dissimilar welds.

For mufflers, I decided on Flowmaster three chambered stailnless. The three chambered mufflers, according to the Flowmaster noise graphs, significantly reduce the interior noise level; that is something I really wanted. Actually, I needed to determine the available space first, so I mocked-up mufflers from cardboard from the advertised dimensions and moved them around until I got them where I wanted. Since the 01E transaxle is fairly long, there was no space between it and the rear of the car to fit the Camaro style dual inlet/dual outlet muffler that some have used....I think it's a nice solution, but unfortunately not for me.

Once the mufflers were welded in place, I made a brace off the transaxle to mount some rubber isolators to support the weight at the rear. I did add some heat shielding in strategic areas so as to manage the heat. First, I shielded the area adjacent to the shocks, since the muffler and inlet pipe was a bit close. I then added a heat shield where the pipe runs close to the shifter cables. Finally, I installed heat shields to the top of the mufflers to keep the trunk floor from getting too hot; these are made by Flowmaster specifically for the three chambered muffler.

After driving the car, it is a bit loud (exterior noise), but I'm not surprised due to how short the exhaust system is. I know I can quiet it down by adding a cross-over pipe, but there's so little room I'm not sure yet how to route the pipe; I'll have to chew on this for a while. There's also a drone under load from about 1800 - 2000 RPM. After some research, I found that a Helmholz chamber can cancel out this drone. A closed end pipe, regardless of routing, placed preferably just ahead of the muffler, calculated to the proper length (wave speed, number of pulses, frequency, etc) can cancel out the resonance (drone). It's a tidy solution that I may employ once I figure out the cross-over pipe.

Thought I'd go through the fuel system next. The LS1 EFI system requires 58 psi. The PCM runs the fuel pump for 3 seconds when the key is on. The fuel pump resumes running once the PCM senses the crank rotating. So the basic fuel system has an external electric fuel pump which feeds a bypass style fuel pressure regulator with one line running to the motor, and the other returning to the fuel tank.

In order to adapt -6AN fittings to the stock 914 fuel tank, I tapped the exisiting inlet and outlet bungs to 3/8NPT....I got this tip from 914WORLD; Thanks! I installed some -6AN X 3/8NPT fittings. What I did on the outlet fitting, was to silver braze a tube and screen (sock) to mimic the 914 in tank screen (actually a VW part) to strain out any big particles. I used Summit Twist Tite push on hose and fittings that's good for 250psi. The feed hose goes through an Earl's 100 micron course filter before entering the Walbro 255 electric fuel pump. One of the two sure death's of this type of pump is particulate contamination, so an additional $50 for the pre-filter is worth it. The high pressure side of the pump feeds into a Vette filter/regulator to bring the pressure down to 58psi. It has a bypass which is plumbed back to the the orignal 914 return line bung. The regulated pressure feed hose goes to a thru-tunnel steel tube, but more on that in a minute. The Vette filter/regulator uses GM type push-on connections; one 3/8' male inlet, one 5/16" male return, and one 3/8" female out. To couple the two male fittings to -6AN, Russell makes adapter fittings, but here's a work of caution: The early style uses a plastic retaining clip that reportedly fails on occasion, according to experiences on the LS1 boards where some fires resulted. Russell subsequently offered a re-designed adapter that employs a positive locking system (644120, 3/8" x -6AN, and 644110, 5/16" x -6AN). The adapters shown in my photo, are the early stlye which I replaced as soon as I read the failure accounts. For the regulated side with the 3/8" female connector, I bought from NAPA a steel adapter tube that had the appropriate swaged male ends, cut one end off, and installed a 45 degree flare nut and flared the othe end. I then made a 180 degree bend to better route the hose under the tank and to the through tunnel steel tube. I purposely made the hoses long enough to allow me to pull the fuel tank up high enough to service anything underneath it without having to romove the hose fittings.

Now to the steel through tunnel line. Since I knew I wanted a steel line with fittings capable of sealing 58psi fuel pressure safely, I decided on a 60" pre-made 3/8" steel brake line with 45 degree flared ends. Here's why I went this route: NAPA offers brass 45 degree flare 3/8" x -6AN push-on high pressure hose adapters in both male and female. This kept things really simple without the need for all kinds of fittings cobbled together. The brake line was bent to shape by trial and error untill it had the shape I was looking for. It passes through the stock 914 rubber fuel line grommet at the front. I did have to slit the grommet to get the line in it, then I plugged the return line hole and pushed the grommet into place. The brake line at the engine bay makes a 90 degree bend towards the passenger side. Here, I added a flare line coupling and used a second pre-made brake line formed to run a path up, then turn towards the passenger side under the engine shelf, all hung from Adel clamps. This line stops just above the engine shelf where another NAPA flare to -6AN hose fitting is used. With another Summit hose, it runs to the LS1 fuel rail through a heat reflective tube. The fitting on the fuel rail in also a GM push-on, so another Russell adapter fitting was used there.

That was long winded for sure, but hope it helps detail what the photos don't show.

Wow, amazing work, the only comment I have is why fiberglass flares when you could get steel in Atlanta for cheaper than I got mine back in 1991 from Stoddard...

The AA steel flares were not yet available at the time I needed them.

Andys

Looks excellent, and like a whole lot of fun. I personally would take off those Corvette plastic covers though. I like the way that engine looks without them and it provokes far more mystery and trepidation among people, even car guys, who peek in there. I LOVE it when car guys can't explain to their wives what they're looking at.

Yeah, I'm not a fan of the CORVETTE lettering; too streetrodish for me. I actually do like that they cover the mess of coils and wires, and cleans-up the engine a lot. My original plan was to sand/fill/prime/paint the Vette coil covers same color as the body. I've seen some done this way, and it looks really sharp....but it's a lot of work to do it right, so I just stuck them on as-is for the time being. I'm not worried about explaining anything to my wife, cause she doesn't care.

Andys

But if you have that thing out somewhere and some hotrod guy's wife asks him what engine it is and he fumbles a story, *that's* funny.

Amazing build. Thanks for sharing here.

Great build Andy, your work is top notch and looks like nothing was left unnoticed!
In your gas tank compartment, what is the orange material you used as a replacement for the foam pads?? I have been looking for a suitable material for my gas tank compartment.... Thanks

Thanks, David! Those orange pads are 3/16" textured finish adhesive back silicone foam fom McMaster-Carr p/n 8623K249....too high tech for me, but it was left over from a job at work......Will probably outlast the car.

Andys

Awesome, thanks! I love McMaster, they have everything!! and i can go pick it up too! (One perk of living in LA) Hope you dont mind me asking, but what do you do for a living that made you soo good at building sweet cars?

Next time i go to six flags i will probably feel a strong urge to come say hi and see your sexy teener

Engineer for an implantable medical device research foundation, however I've been around racing and working on cars my whole life.

Yeah, drop me a line should you plan on Magic Mountain.

Andys

Ha ha ha, yeah, I can understand that. But I didn't mean her as much as the crowd you always attract at gas stations and convenience stores. You know, the ones who start out by saying "I had one of those a long time..." then go quiet when they notice the engine compartment. It's evil, but it's fun to see them squirm in front of their wives.

What company!?! I did a 6 month internship last year at St. Jude Medical over in Sylmar as a Hardware Engineer!

Andys

I've been following your build thread for awhile now, and just wanted to say yours is one of the sweetest looking and well thought out conversions I've ever seen. I've done two V8 conversions so far and it's great seeing all the thought and planning you've put into this. The details such as the heat shields is some good engineering work and basically you are designing out a lot of bugs before they ever happen. I'm sure once you get it on the road you'll be chasing a few more, as with any project as complex as this. But I bet they will be minor tweaks if anything. Hope you enjoy driving yours as much as I do mine. For sure yours will show how these conversions ought to be done, instead of the shoddy builds that have given them a bad reputation.
Guy

David,

Small world! St. Jude was originally Pacesetter Sys. Inc. which was started by Al Mann. I worked at Pacesetter for 19 years, then moved to The Al Mann Foundation for Sientific Research for 16 years.....Still there.

Andys

Guy,

Thanks for the kind words; I appreciate it.

Racing taught me (old cliché here) "To finish first, you must first finish" so reliability and durability must be balanced with performance goals. I'm also a bit anal when it comes to mechanical stuff, so anticipating problems is something I pain over a great deal I hope soon to take it out to The Streets of Willow for one of those HPDE's and use it as a testing session to dial in the suspension.

Anyway, thanks again,

Andys

Thats crazy! What a small world it is! No I am not currently working there, it was just for 6 months and then had to go back to school to finish up my ME undergrad. I will apply to work there though for after I graduate next March, I really enjoyed working at SJM, was a great experience for me!
I am assuming The Al Mann Foundation is focused on implantable devices for cardiac stimulation/support?

David

I nominate this thread for the Classics.

It will go down as one of the best engineered conversions in the 914 World.

Andy has set a new standard for everyone to shoot for.

Bob

I'm jumping around a bit, however lets go ahead and paint the car.

I'll start with paint and materials. I went with PPG base coat/clear coat (Deltron 2000 DBC base, and Deltron DCU2010 clear). The color is M7Z GT Silber (silver), which is a Porsche color. I chose this particular silver because it has a deep rich look, rather than some of the more pale silver's. Interesting that when I watched the store mix the paint, they added black to it hence the darkness and richness.....at least that's my take.

I bought a sanding block kit from Summit (Dura-Block) and some rolls of various grit 2 3/4" wide adhesive backed sandpaper also from Summit. The sandpaper is Carborundom Gold (not to be confused with Kona ), which costs 1/3 less than the 3M brand. I already had some long boards, and various other sanding blocks, and used them all.

For Primer, I used PPG Deltron DP40LF epoxy, and chose the straight gray color to maintain the deep look in the color coat. For body filler I used , for the first time, Rage Gold which I like very much. I strongly recommend this product; super quality in my book. For high build primer, I used Shop Line JP205 gray polyester, which is made by PPG.

There was an assortment of dings and dents that required the requisite bodywork, but most, unfortunately, were on blind panels, so I couldn't get a dolly behind the dents. I made ample use of my HF stud gun in these areas and used the body filler as required. To get the filling and blending just right, it took A LOT OF WORK for what seemed like never ending sanding, priming, sanding, priming....well you get the picture. I don't think I'll ever do another one again!

I ended up with three HVLP guns. For the epoxy primer, I used the slightly better quality HF gun with a 1.4 nozzle. For the high build primer, I used a cheapie HF gun and drilled out the nozzle to 1.9; it worked out very well for this application @ 40psi. For the base and clear, I used a quality Eastwood gun with a 1.4 nozzle. I had other nozzles, but this worked well in both cases.

I rented a spray booth from a guy that does a lot of the local hotrod work (as a retirement hobby), and I took a lot of advice from him. Thanks Howard! I towed the car there, which was about 12 miles, and spent two looong days priming, base, and clear coating. I layed down three coats of base, and tthree coats of clear. I used about 2 1/2 quarts of base, and about 3 1/2 quarts of clear for both inside, and out. The doors were removed, as were the hood, trunk, targa, and engine cover and painted while hanging in the booth. After three days (I think), I color sanded the clear (1000, then 1200) before it got too hard. I left it in the color sanded state until I assembled the car, and then went about buffing it out. I used 3M Perfect-It #6085 (step 1), and Perfect-It #6064 (step 2). My biggest hurdle was finding a machine pad that I was happy with, and went through several before I got something that produced a good result. I could have gone finer yet, but this is not a show quality car and I stopped there.

All this is from memory (poor memeory at that!), so perhaps I've left something out or got something wrong, but you get the idea. As always, pleaes ask.

Andys

Thought I'd take y'all through the AC system. I posted some of these photos before in answer to another thread, but hopefully these will provide more info.

I bought a Hot Rod Air under dash evaporator based on it's compatability with my existing LS1 variable volume compressor. Vintage air claims their system is not compatible with this copressor, therefore my decision. The Hot Rod Air evaporator includes heat, and has defrost. The Hot Rod Air guys were very helpful, however they apparently went out of business not long after I received the unt from them For the condensor, I bought a Vintage Air 12"x20". Since the LS1 PCM has the capability to control the AC, I decided to run a GM AC refrigerant pressure sensor rather than a trinary switch. The GM PCM controls the compressor cycling from the AC request signal output, turns on the radiator fans (and truns them off over 40 MPH), and of course monitors the pressure.

It turned out that the biggest challenge, was routing the refrigerant hoses. The 914 just doesn't give you many favorable options in this regard, so I did some serious head scratching and came up with the following. I really dislike the original 914 dealer installed hose routing where they punch holes through inner fender panels ans such, so I went in another direction. The first decision was to use reduced diameter barrier hose, which as the name implys, its diameter is smaller that the standard hose of the same size. Though the fittings are less common, the smaller diameter hose made the routing much nicer. Starting at the compressor, I routed the -8 pressure and -10 suction hoses through the engine firewall and into the lower right passenger side using bulkhead fittings. The hoses run under the engine shelf, pass through the firewall, then with 90 degree ported fittings, the hoses sweep downward and run along the floor where it meets the long in the cabin. You'll see in the photos how the ported fittings intrude into the cabin behind the seat. To keep the seat from crashing into the fittings, I made some seat stops in the seat rails. I only needed to shorten the seat travel by 7/8", so it is really un-noticable. I painted the fittings flat black, so they go un-noticed (and they're behind the seat anyway). Held in place with Adel clamps, the hoses run forward; the -10 to the evaporator, and the -8 forward through the lower floorboard bulkhead, under the fuel tank, through the front trunk blukhead, and on to the condensor. The -6 high pressure hose runs from the condensor to the drier. The GM refrigerant pressure sensor is attached to one of the un-used drier ports using an adapter. From the drier, the -6 hose parallels the -10 hose under the fuel tank and through the floorboard and to the evaporator. By running the hoses along the floor and long joint, once the carpet is in place, it is completely un-noticable.

Back at the compressor, I had to get a custom compressor block made such that the hoses would point in the most favorable direction; that was a tough one, as there's so little room to route the hoses effectively away from the headers and keep from abrading against the chassis. I also made a heat shield between the header and the compressor.The custom compressor block was made by Doc's Blocks (Stark Mfg), which would make anything custom from your drawing but unfortunately they've changed thier business model and no longer do custom work and sell only through distributors.....This is really too bad, as they were a fantastic resource up until that time....and their prices were great!

For the heat function, I ran two -8 hoses through the passenger side heater duct. I first wrapped them with extra thick electricians tape to help guard against any incidental abrasion. I added 1/2" (-8) x 5/8" adapters on heater core side which made things less tidy than I would have liked, but they're hidden out of sight anyway. The heater (hot water) control valve (HCV) is in the engine compartment. The LS1 heater water flow system logic is such that the HCV is normally open with the engine off (no vauum), but once the motor is started, the vacuum closes the HCV. This requires a different approach to the vacuum switching valve (VSV). You need a VSV that is normally open until heat is requested at which point the VCV closes and vents the NO side which allows the HCV to open. I found a VSV from a Toyota (NAPA P/N: CRB 226873) that had the appropriate logic, so all is good. For a vacuume source, I ran some 1/8" nylon vacuum tubing from the motor to the VSV through the center tunnel, then from the VSV back to the HCV. The nylon tubing is small and easy to route.
As always, please ask.

Andy,
That car looks fantastic ! My last (black with the 930 trans) was OK but I
really hope to move up and build a car as you have. Just say the word and I'll drive
up and go for a ride

P.S. sent you a P.M. through the other forum !

Well, you're certainly welcome anytime. The car at the moment, is on jack stands (non mechanical) for easier access to fix the front spoiler that I snagged on the dreaded driveway at the G&R. BTW, I just might go to the next G&R comming up soon. You?

Check you PM's on the other forum.

Andy

Okay, I know your not to it in your story but I know its been built. Do tell about the hydraulic clutch setup!! Just like all the other details it looks like a nice solution to not redoing the footwell area.

I can't wait for more.

double post- sorry

Stephan,

I see that I didn't post any detail photos of the hydraulic clutch set up you ask about, so here you go.

Brief description: I used a 3/4" Wilwood clutch master with a remote reservoir placed next to the brake reservoir. I mounted the clutch master on a bracket with a bellcrank to reverse the throw. The bellcrank has a rod with heim's that couple to the original clutch lever (slightly modified for double shear). I removed the original spiral spring, and replaced it with one from McMaster-Carr that is wound in the reverse direction so that the clutch pedal is now sprung so it returns to the up position. The clutch master (and shifter, etc.) is hidden by the center console. One photo shows the slave on the trans. Please ask if you don't see.

Andys

Thank you sir that is absolutely brilliant, and I am going to steal your idea, modify it a little to fit my build. Thank you for sharing.

wow, just wow....great build...after seeing such innovative ideas and quality parts you made I don't think I'll ever create a build thread!

I want you on my team !!!!!!!!

Just read through your thread with great enthusiasm
Makes me want to work more hours on our conversion.
Like the dude in the movie "Interview", I would say:
All of your 914 v8s are belonging to me !
Hope to meet up with you and your 914 soon
Marty

Thanks for the link Andy- got me inspired to work on mine almost 3 hours worth after a 12+ hour shift this morning. Got home at 7 am after work, didn't get out of the garage until 10! Mine won't be as pretty but it should work just fine for my wants and needs. Are you signed up for WCR? If so, looking forward to meeting you and this gem of yours.

Marty,

I nearly drove out to your Hollywood Porsche meet, but something came up at the last minute. When are you going to do another one?

Andys

Well, if the build thread inspired you, I'm honored. Not signed up for the WCR. The dates never seem to work out for me.

Andys

How about Route 66 in Palm Springs in March? Love to see your car in person too

Jamie,

Thanks for the heads-up. March is a maybe. Just got a consulting gig that may interfere, but won't know till late Feb./early March. Also, is there some sort of motel uncertainty?

Andys

The Hotel was sold & new owners are taking over. We are good to go though. Reservations called in were held. Not sure about Expedia? It's worth calling to get your reservation to be sure. I just checked on mine & they have it. So should be good to go

Are you doing your own plating on the small steel parts or shopping those out?

The neat thing about this build is your selective use of plated parts, it gives it a much closer feel of the parts being OEM.

Certainly a Hollywood Cars+Tacos is coming up , just getting lots of non-car things in order now. The gathering would not be the same without Old School...so get strong soon Jaime, and don't miss this one Andy !

I just hope those who poopoo this conversion find a way to get it.


Nice work.

I sent out all my zinc plating. You can do a lot of small parts for the minimum batch charge. Included in my box full of parts, was a photo of all the parts along and a part count. Thankfully, nothing ever got lost.

Andys

That is one nice car, great craftsmanship bumper to bumper.
NOW DRIVE CAREFULLEY !!!!!!!

Anything new to show us on this cool build?

Well, the car is done, but then again, they are never really done-done.

I changed the header tank coolant routing from the hot side to the cold side, which necessitated re-routing some of the coolant lines. Took more work then I expected, but got it done.

The steam vent lines I originally installed are nylon. I did this because the 1/8" diameter tubing lends itself well to the tight spaces they pass thru. I always knew the nylon may be an issue, but took the risk anyway. What's happening, is that I am getting some slight weeping of coolant right at the compression nut, which goes away when I snug up the nut. Over time, the weeping returns, so I will probably re-configure it with small diameter braided hose.

The trans has developed a leak. I'm pretty sure the input shaft seal is the culprit. This repair obviously requires me to drop the engine/trans. Bummer is that I can only do some short drives around town. Think I'll wait till the weather cools a bit before tackling this job. At least it will give me the opportunity to inspect stuff as well as clean-up some of the wiring.

Andys

.........lurking in Newport Beach and love to see this beauty in person some day