I cant find the pic now, but I found one on the net the other day, and have seen a local car with riveted flares. Both cars had welting, like a VW, between the flare and the fender, and both had "race" paint jobs. I like the look, but I really dont think it would work all that well on a solid color street car.

But that's just me.

QUOTE (Brew @ Dec 28 2005, 06:41 PM)

I cant find the pic now, but I found one on the net the other day, and have seen a local car with riveted flares. Both cars had welting, like a VW, between the flare and the fender, and both had "race" paint jobs. I like the look, but I really dont think it would work all that well on a solid color street car. But that's just me.

Hey Brew,

I completely agree.

The paint scheme will have to be something to blend the riveted fender with the rest of the car. I'm thinking flowing contrasting colors. Purely in the conceptual stage right now.

Maybe i'll watch a few flourescent sunsets to gain inspiration....

The solid white Martini & Rossi with contrasting welting looked good from what I remembered. We need pictures.

T.C.

Hi All -
The Martini car is mine - although you wouldn't know it by the little it has been driven lately. Here is a link:

http://scottythedrummer.com/_wsn/page13.html


...and another pic.

Cracks were the only reason I went this route. I have never seen a car in a climate that can be a 105 degrees in the summer and -25 in the winter not have some sort of cracking. It came out kinda neat, but I would much rather have a seemless steal flared car. Someday!

Happy New Year -
Scott S

Thanks Scott, any other riveters out there?

T.C.

I would asume that it would be possible to replace F/G flares with steel at some point in time. Am I correct?

QUOTE (STL914 @ Dec 29 2005, 07:58 PM)

I would asume that it would be possible to replace F/G flares with steel at some point in time. Am I correct?

FG GT style fenders are mostly bonded/screwed on i think...

what i've noticed about some FG flares (sheridans specifically) is that they are the entire fender. the GT style box flared fenders are just a section of the entire fender. not the whole fender.

if you went FG GT to steel GT's you'd just have to make sure there was enough steel fender to attach to. butt welding being the preferred method of attachment.

shouldn't be a problem but i'd measure it before purchasing.

QUOTE (carr914 @ Dec 29 2005, 02:18 PM)

Thanks Scott, any other riveters out there? T.C.

I'm a future rivetter. I would like to do steel, but I just don't have the budget for it. I plan to do the rivets with my glass flares. I like the look, and I don't feel like trying to make glass look like steel.

Patrick Motorsports have a couple cars on their site with rivet flares.

I have done Fiberglass - spent $250 on epoxy to bond them properly, flares where $250, riveted them on, for the Epoxy to set 24-hrs, drilled out all the rivets, filed each hole, transistion with special bondo for lack of better term, it is engineered for this aplication. All and all the guy was cheap to start with and ended up spending close to what a set of steel AA flares woud have cost.

If I need to flare another it will be in steel, simple and easy. Fiberglass looks cheap at first, but to do it right costs $$$.

BTW, stumbled into the steel flare instal how to - nice site Steel Flares I'm in love

Just my .02 btdt factor

Heres the car before paint was buffed, spoiler got stuck on the trailer when it was off loaded, DOAH!!!!!!!!!!

914forme

What size cookie cutters and tires are you running?

Paul Borks how too, is the best how too out there. Ive seen his car and its perfect.

Roger Heres a picture of some Gottis

7x15 cookies spaced out for proper fit. guy did not want to pay for anything bigger, had them laying about the shop. It could have easily ran 8s on the back or 9x15" fuchs if I could find a set of them.

$$$ determined the wheel, and tire chioce = if I remeber right 245/50 - 15s out back. Did a nice job of making it look bigger.

QUOTE (bob91403 @ Nov 18 2004, 11:02 PM)

Sure, carefully remove your complete fenders and rear quarter panels. Then, replace them with full fiberglass units with the flares already there (rennspd.com). Sell your old fenders and rear quarter panels to people who need to repair they're stock teener. It ends up costing you NOTHING! You save yourself a ton of labor, and cut your weight about a hundred pounds. Otherwise, buy (choke) AA's reproduction metal flares.

I know this is an old post, but, does anybody have information on what the process is to remove the fenders without damaging them (mostly intact) and how exactly these FG fender replacements are mounted? I havent heard of many using the full FG fender and seems like a great idea to loose a deal of weight.

QUOTE (cametal @ Nov 15 2004, 10:39 PM)

Can fiberglass be installed with out cracking?

No.

Roger,
I have this article written by Skip on Resealing. I have 2 sets of Gottis, but haven't needed to take them apart. I'll eventually remove the center and powder coat or paint it and polish the outer. I only have the thumbnails from this document, but it might help.



==========================
Gotti Resealing
Skip Grehan - Mar 2001

For 3-piece Gotti alloy wheels - 16 or 32 bolt

I came out from work today to find a flat!!! Yesterday I had my new Kumho Victoracers mounted on these newly acquired wheels. I knew the previous owner had them resealed once, and said it may have to be done again... so no real surprise.

Rather than pay for the shop to dismount the tires, I figures since I would be splitting the rims, that would take care of it. Don't try this unless you have lots of patience and a huge C-clamp.



To get the halves separated I had to remove the air (valve stem), then remove all of the sealing bolts. From there I was able to knock the center off through the back and start the splitting process. These wheels had been sealed a couple times before so they were quite difficult to split. I was able to carefully slide a rigid putty knife through the inside edge. The tire was very tight on the wheel so I had to use an 18" C-clamp with some wood shims to "squeeze" the tire off the bead.

Once separated, I was able to clean and prepare the surfaces with a putty knife, Simple Green, and a Brillo pad. The picture above is of the parts after preparation.



I used Permatex (Loctite) #66C, Clear silicone RTV, to reseal the wheels and lay a bead in the crevice between the two halves (shown in picture above).

Just lay a light bead around both halves and spread with finger. Position the sealing plate (plastic) and start loading it up with the bolts. Their will be a bit of oozing as the bolts are tightened, and, you'll have to go around and tighten them in several stages.

I used the general rule of opposites when tightening. The rep I spoke with at Kinesis guesstimated a torque setting of 28 ft/lbs. (nuts are 10mm) If anyone knows different please let me know.

This is the finished product. Seemed to go very well, and should do the trick for a few more years of use. If I get real bored I may just do the other three.

NOTE: If you own 3-piece Gotti's, this is for you. If not, DON'T BUY THEM. Gotti stopped making wheels back in ~1986, so the ones out there are old AND use dated technology. Their are 3 basic types: the 1-piece - 5-spoke, and the 3-piece - 5-spoke with either 16 or 32 sealing bolts. The 3-piece are very prone to cracking at the sealing holes, warping (thin aluminum outers), and leaks in-between the halves.