OK! I searched the board, got Dr Evils notes. Replaced every bushing. Even the firewall bushing and lubed everything well. Studied everything for broken mounts or transmission ears. Read Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance. Made multiple attempts to adjust and it shifts like crap. I must really suck at this!

I can get first and reverse but every thing is still a mystery. It seems like going from first to second always winds up in 4th. Yes I did the 3rd 2nd alignment sequester by Dr Evil multiple times with the same results. So I must be doing something wrong.

Or the shifter is bad. Looking at the shifter it is worn and certainly will require replacement at some point but it seems to be functioning as intended.

I guess in the adjustment process I did verify the gears at the transmission but I am confused as how to "adjust to where a gear should be." Also the directions say to secure the shift rod in the tunnel while you tighten the pinch nut. But with the new bushings there is some resistance to movement. Not binding any where just new.

So what am I missing? Should I drink while making the adjustments?

I am not clear on all of this, it seems as though you state you adjusted it right, but that you didnt? Which is it?

If all external stuff is done correctly and it still sucks, the problem lies within the box. If your shifter is worn, all bets are off.

Any wear along the linkage from the shift know to the actual shift forks inside the transmission will lead to slop and needs to be addressed. Any worn bushings at the shift tower will be noticeable and should be corrected.

What year is your car?

Dr. evil,

OK I think I understand how the adjustment process is supposed to work. I am not sure that my shifter allowed me to implement the adjustment correctly. I see that on the transmission there is a very defined and limited range of movement. But that range of motion has to be correctly synced up with the limitations of the shifter to make them play well together.

So I started by getting the trans in 1st gear. Moved shifter forward and allow the spring to push lever over out of the 1st/ reverse plane and then shift down into 3rd. This should place the selector knob on the transmission in the middle of the H and in the most forward position on the H pattern. Verified that the car was in a gear and decided that I wanted the shifter position for 3rd to be here (meaning shifter to rear of car and just able to access the pinch bolt through the port. So at this point the position of 2nd is set by the available travel length of the shift selector on the transmission.

At this point I can access all of the gears in the pattern after much trying, but the shift from 1st to 2nd always finds 4th. I can make deliberate corrections with the shifter by biasing the shift to the left and eventually find 2nd. Going from 2nd to third seems to always go to 5th.

Looking at my shifter, it is questionable at best. It has the lock rings on the compression springs replaced with wire and there is a “V” notch in gearshift bracket. I will pull it to get some better pictures tonight (see attached) . Before I get Dr. Evil to rebuild my trans I would like to know if there is any reason to consider rebuilding the shifter and if a shifter rebuild kit is available? Also while I have seen a number of shifters on the board, I am not sure how to determine if a new used one is better than the one I have. If there is a reasonably priced alternative to buying a completely new shifter I might try that before pulling the trans. Any suggestions where to locate would be appreciated.

Mine grinds when I shift too soon into first. I have to wait like a second after depressing the clutch before going into first. I just read some info here in the forum. I will try the double pump thing and will also try adjusting the clutch. If that don't work then a trans rebuild will be next in the list of projects for the car.

I also noticed the clutch to be heavy or stiff. Sorry trying to explain it to the best of my knowledge. In other words, I really have to press it in while waiting to let go at a stop, to where my leg really gets tired. Is this normal for a 914?

Sorry Mike for the hijacking of this thread.

FWIW, I had similar issues of not grabbing all gears. Ended up being the knuckle being too tight and not moving freely. After taking the knuckle apart, and lubing it to hell, I was able to catch 2nd, 4th and 5th
Click to view attachment

Here is the procedure from the factory manual FWIW

The shifter adjustment is right if you can get to 1st/reverse and 4th/5th

2nd/3rd are in the middle.

If you dont adjust it right, you either cant get all the way left or right, or you cant get all the way up or down.

If its sloppy...that could be the shifter itself, which also has a bushing that can be replaced.

Or, it could just be what it is....a 914 that you need to learn how to shift....cause it shifts like no other car.

Honestly, look for any play in the rod by having someone clamp the rod at the transmission and hold it tight while you wiggle the shifter side to side and front to back.

The play could be in the u-joint just behind the firewall, or the shifter assembly.

rich

Rich I totally get me learning the 914 shifting quirks. I had a tail shift for many years and it was always required a Zen approach. While I am out of practice I have not forgotten everything about the 914.

Everything in the rod is tight and new. The only slop is in the shifter. So I guess I will look for the bushing and try Jeff's approach.

Well, the subtitle of your post says it all: You have Dr Evil's Butt. That's the problem. Good luck.

Also, the way to check the mounts is to jack the tranny and watch for the car to move. Mine moved a long way before the car started to lift, yet externally looked fine. In that case the symptom was that I could get it adjusted and then it would come unadjusted when the mounts moved.

Like the sci fi book Dune. The shields wouldn't let an adversary stab you with a quick motion. Stabbing required just exactly the right rate and force to get through. No I don't go to sci fi thingies, I just remember from high school, that's all. But driving a 914 reminds me of this.

This was somewhat tight but I did lube it well. If you hold the rod out straight it won't flop. But if you shake the rod slightly it bends freely. But because this had new bushings in it I did not replace the. I think I might pull it back out and change them anyway.

Jeff thanks!

I get most of that except for #4. Turn shift rod in tunnel clockwise to right as fa as stop. Is there a mechanical stop or just until it won't rotate?

George it is a 1975.

I'm pretty sure that this is your problem. I too, extended the shift rod parallel to the floor, and it didn't flex. After taking it apart and lubing it up, gravity was enough for the shift rod to flex, when held parallel to the ground. I then reassembled everything back into the car, and had it adjusted correctly within 5 mins. Before lubing that joint, I spent many hours adjusting, trying to find that g spot. Good luck!

Mike - If you get to the point where you would like to replace the shifter, give me a shout as I have an extra one. I work in Bearden during the week so maybe you could swing by and pick it up.

steve

Steve sent you a PM with phone number.

You know I never noticed my typo in the title referring to Dr Evils but. Despite Worn's very straight forward comment I still missed it until tonight. However, Dr Evil was extremely gracious about the whole issue and I think that says a lot about a person.

I respectfully return Dr Evils but and truly appreciate his understanding. If we ever meet, Mike I owe you a drink.

What I do?

Sorry, I have been busy trying to sleep since the new kiddo has arrived. I am glad that there are enough people around to help

I also have a shifter I will donate to the cause if needed for the price of shipping. I could also drop it off on my way to Hershey but doubt you want to wait that long.



Shoe

A replacement shifter will likely be worn out as is the old one. You need to replace 6, 7, 8 in this diagram.

6- 914 424 343 02, comes in a several thicknesses
Pelican only lists one type for $15

7- guide spring, 914 424 131 00, NLA according to Pelican. This is the least important.

8- Guide plate, 901 424 132 00, $6 at pelican

Just go to Pelican and type in the part numbers to get to the listing.

Shoe/Steve,

I have encountered some amazing people on this board. The offers of help and parts is just unbelievable. I think it speaks highly of the type of people that are stricken with the 914 disease and their ability to to be generous in spite of their condition.

Hopefully I will be able to return the kindness to both of you at some point. Because Steve is local I will take him up on his offer.

Wow a shifter not held together with wire works much better. Actually went for a drive today with my wife thanks to Steve's shifter.

Jeff, that adjustment guidance seemed to work well. Still miss 2nd often but it seems to be operator error more than anything. If anyone has any suggestions as to how to adjust 2nd so that it does not require actually pulling the shifter to the left I am still listening.

But thanks to everyone for the help I really appreciate it.

Next, PMB rear calipers. Anyone?

Shift it into 2nd (or 3rd), go into the tunnel and loosen the pinch bolt, remove the collar, allow the shifter to be pushed to the center by the spring plate, slide the collar back onto the shaft, retighten the bolt. This is the basics of the adjuster notes in my notes. I thought you read them??

Dr Evil I read the notes but I guess I did not really understand how to adapt the guidance to the specific problem I had. Reading what you just wrote just kind of put it into the proper perspective. So that makes it clear as to why you are the Dr and the rest of us are just trying to learn. Thanks for putting that in a way that allowed me to get it.

Update. I implemented Dr Evils directions and now it shifts like a dream! Thanks to everyone for their help. Now if I could just solve my single Weber woes but that's another post altogether.

dump the carb and reinstall the original FI

That is my end game plan to go back to FI. But because the car has a cam for carbs in it, I was not wanting to completely redo the engine at this point. So I was looking at putting dual 40s on until I was ready for a complete rebuild.

Very ironic, I'm just about to list some dual weber 40's in the classified section!

Mike,

I was wondering if you had had time to get the shifter installed/adjusted and see you have done so successfully.

steve

Steve I did install the shifter and even went for a drive today! But I am still struggling with this carb. It will idle well when it is cold but wants to die when warm. I think I remember that being an indicator of lacking fuel. I am planning on taking the carb off tomorrow and cleaning all the jets and increasing the accelerator jet size. But after that I am clueless. I am budgeting about $600 for the dual 40s. If I could go back to FI for that $$ I would. But I am betting the carb cam would cause problems.

Good to hear, Mike

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All my linkage is tight. But I think I've slipped off center.
I have to keep it pulled to the right to get into 5th.
It wants to go into 3rd. Not good .........
Plus the centering spring is tight. Really stiff L to R.

mike...for that money you can buy correctly refurbished IDFs. if you buy cores, ship them to and fro, have them done by a pro, you'll exceed your budget. for a 2.0 (in your signature) with a carb cam, the set i have in the the classifieds will meet your needs nicely. have a look.

k

Kevin I did look long and hard at what you had. But i have the current ones in hand and it is hard to send those shining new parts back. Thanks for the offer.