I have a 1974 porsche 914 2.0 with a clutch problem. It was parked for several years and when i started back up, the 1st and reverse gears were grinding when putting it in gear. I got underneath the car, replaced the shifter bushing and adjusted the clutch cable, problem solved for 2 days. First the car started ginding again in 1st and reverse. Now it will not let me put it in any gear. I am going back underneath the car this week to look at the clutch cable, does anyone have a diagram and how much it should move when pedal is pushed. Any other ideas or anyone have this problem before. Thanks

Search "broken clutch tube" on here. You're in for some welding buddy!

Which bushing did you change? Since it shifted good for 2 days I'll bet the cone screw has backed out. Some folks say they are only a one time use, but I've found blue locktite holds them just fine.

Yes, but he had a problem before that with it grinding going into gear. He adjusted the cable and it came back. Could be a cone screw, and Curt, your knowledge far surpasses mine, but I think that sounds more like a clutch tube ripping from its mounts.

He also changed a bushing which means he had at least one cone screw out. Hard to say which cured the problem when you perform two fixes at the same time?

Anytime reverse grinds it means that your clutch is not releasing completely. So, this means that cable/tube/etc external to the transmission is the issue.

looks like I have a project for this week, will keep everyone posted to see what I find. thanks

You can located which end is loose then drill an 1.25" hole slightly above it allowing you to insert a U bolt over the tube and back thru the tunnel wall. I was going to weld mine up before this conversion began but won't need it now. If its the front that tore loose I can get you a pic and the dimension to drill if you don't want to weld it. If you weld it take care not to weld the cable inside the tube.

Try adjusting the cable some more. I had to do mine a couple of times back to back like that.

I cant adjust the cable anymore, it was almost at the end.

Can you send me pics, would like to see what my easy option is, thanks

Between Clutch Cable End Clevis and adjustment nuts, I have a 1/2 inch long metal sleeve so I can adjust the cable more. Does your cable have the barrel like sleeve? You can use a bunch of small washers but a sleeve works the best.


Did you put a new clutch cable when you replace the bushings? They will stretch then break at the worst times. Ask me how I know! Even a new one will stretch a little after a few days of use. Which might explain why yours worked for a few days.

I would try this before tearing into your clutch cable tubes in the floorboard.

I have also seen the disc rusted to the pressure plate after sitting for years. This could cause your symptoms.

Most likely you have a stretched cable. You could try a larger nut as a spacer under the adjusting nut. If you can then adjust and make it work, you know the cable stretched.

I bought a new cable and was going to install it.

Post a picture of the firewall from under the engine where the clutch cable enters the cabin. With this pic, it can be confirmed if the clutch tube is attached properly.

2 general reasons why you have to adjust the cable only days apart are a stretching and ready-to-break clutch cable and the clutch tube in the cabin is loose.

here is some quik pictures, will start working on this later today to see what the problem is.

No, it COULD NOT be the cone screw. Based on his description, his issue is grinding due to poor clutch disengagement, NOT being unable to find the gears.

The Cap'n

Judging by the bottom picture, I would say that the clutch cable tube has come loose. There is rust evident at the bottom seam of the floor where the tube is welded to to the vertical wall. this could cause the tube in the tunnel to work back and forth with each disengagement, that then causes the tube to come loose further forward in the tunnel. I would not be surprised if the tube is moving at both ends. Welding is in order.

Click to view attachmentI took the cable out, it looks like the black casing has shrank on both sides because of the pressure. The cable I bought on line of course is the wrong cable, ordered a new replacement from auto Atlanta. I attached pictures of the cable, hope the new one works, will keep everyone posted when I get the new cable. The tubes were not broken.

Got my new cable and it was the right one. I installed the cable and noticed another problem that could also be the cause of my problem. The bushings on the pedal assembly need to be replaced. The pedal has movement. Going to the porsche dealer now to pick up the new bushings. If its not one thing, its another. Just want to get it repaired to drive this weekend.

Until you replace, adjust, repair all the little issues in your 40+ year old car, you will have the occasional breakdown.

The best way to approach this is to fix things you work on correctly as they happen. For big issues, prioritize what to work on so your car becomes more and more reliable.

Reliable?!

Ok so I install the new bushing and cable. Finally it works like a champ. But now I find another problem. When I was removing the pedal assembly, I noticed the wire to the brake cylinder was not connected. Once I connected the wire, my brake light keeps flashing. The brake light never worked when I would pull the hand brake. I tried searching for a wire for the brake but I can not locate. Does anyone know what color of wire I should look for and where does it connect to the e brake. I am sure this will take care of my problem. the car does not have a reset button on the master cylinder. It is a 1974 Porsche 914 with a 2.0 engine. Any help appreciated. thanks

The wire on the brake cylinder is connected to a pressure sensor. If your brake works fine, then the sensor must be bad. Most of us don't even use it. Most likely,the PO unplugged it for that reason. I would just unplug it.