Today was the day I mustered the energy to swap out my 43 year old rotten snorkel tube with the new one that I had gotten a month or so ago from Mikey.

The job is really a PITA to the max, and then some. Be ready to spend most of the day on it, and have some help if you can get it. You'll really need 4 or 5 extra hands to push and pull and thread the wiring.

I did mine alone, and it took me about 7 hours.

First thing I noticed was that the Snorkel Tube is about 2- 2-1/2'' to long for my application.

No matter, as I cut it in half about 3'' below the end that is the engine shelf grommet.

Next was removing the interior, and since my wiring harness was already split in 2 on the shift tunnel, pulling it out was easy.
With the wiring pulled up all the way into the engine compartment, I installed the 1st half I cut into the upper engine shelf. Once installed, which was a PITA doing it alone, I then threaded the harness back down through the upper Snork half, down below the engine.
I then measured the bottom half of the elbowed end of the Snork tube, and cut about an inch off it. Then I threaded the wiring again through the elbowed piece and back into the car's interior.
Once I got the bottom grommet of the snork Tube in place in the chassis, I rolled back the tubing on one end where the 2 halves and unrolled it over the other half. This gave the unit about 1-1/2 to 2'' of overlap on the tube. It sealed up really tight, and it looks pretty good.

Re-plugged all the wires in, put the seats back in, and I was done. Time to go back to driving it.

All in all, another great Mikey product.

Thanks Mikey

That looks like a royal pain. Things can and do take much longer than anticipated .

Though at least you got it done and should not have to worry about it any longer

One of the issues with production on these was the test fit. As at the time I didn't have the time or car to check this on properly, Ron was gracious enough to to Help.

I noticed on my car the tube was wanting to pull out and not seat as the OEM tube had shrunk up a little. I was hoping that by adding the extra 2" it could take it up in the underside of the compartment and allow for guys like Andy that need the longer tubes.

Ron,
Do you think it was any easier to thread through was a 2 part piece? Also, the seal between the 2 friction fit or silicone to seal it? Seems like friction fit would be adequate with a 1" overlap.

Mikey,

It was definitely easier as a 2 piece unit, to get all the wiring pulled through. I probably had an advantage in that I have an engine access cover between my seats. With an engine in a car, and not having the access, it will mean hanging over one's engine with little or no eyesight to setting the upper grommet.

Once I got the wiring through the bottom half, I rolled the edge of the Snorkel tube back like a condom. I rolled it back about 2 inches, and then worked the bottom grommet through the locating hole in the chassis.
AFTER I reattached all wiring, and had everything laid in place where it'd stay forever, I then went back under the car, and un-rolled the bottom half of the tube, over the upper piece, creating about 1-1/2'' of overlap.
It's pretty tight as it is, I'm not worried about any leaking.
Besides, it's a much better look than what I had in there.

If anyone is intersted in my old Snork tube, I'll give someone a good deal.

Most don't have a 2-piece chassis harness. Do you think it would have been easier if you had pulled the wiring from the rear trunk, engine bay and battery branches back to the point where the harness exits the rear firewall under the car, then threaded on the snorkel tube (double grommet)?

Did you need to use any lube such as glycerin or soap?

I'm sure the engine out makes this a much easier prospect.