I'll keep working it but it might be spring by the time it's done.

I used some scrap wood to make a stand so I can work on them a bit more hands free.

I did some re-profiling on the 1/2 side fuel rail for clearance.

Not sure how it's going....

But....

Have you considered bolting those throttle bodies directly to the head....?

What is the downside of moving the throttle plate that close to the valve?

Ya, what about cutting down the intakes?

Question: is it better to have the injector nozzels High on the intake as with these TB's atop the intake runners or low nearer the port mouth like the OE intakes ?

Always better to be close to the port. The atomized fuel has less of a chance to condense into droplets. It also provides better throttle response and low end performance. Think about driving a car with a tunnel ram intake. It takes time for the air to reach a good velocity so there is a huge lag. Not a problem if you are drag racing and dumping the clutch with a wide open throttle.

Edit: This is still much better than the single plenum and long runners of the stock type 4.

Also depends what you are going for, maybe emissions, but really on our cars I doubt if it makes a lot of difference.

BTW also note that mine are going into a VW bug, there is absolutely no way of getting the injector closer to the stock location without cutting up the engine metal surround.
Not going to happen.

Are you doing ITB's on the six you are building.

No, at least for now, I have Webers for the /6.

It's alive

Pardon my noobiness, but as I understand this, using ITBs such as these let you get some of that sweet 44IDF style induction sound, but with the power/tunability of FI ala Megasquirt or something, right? Or is there more that I am missing like a MAF, TPS, etc?

More than just the sound, on an engine my size (102mmX 78mm) it's a major power boost.
My system is SDS but it would work on most aftermarket EFI like MS. Yes it has MPS, TPS and crankfire ignition, etc.

Looks good Mark...very similar to my motor...103 x 80. I just finished the first full throttle runs and tuning last night...what a sound at full throttle! Scary fast...I think you will be pulling the front wheels at launch....enjoy!

Wow

Awesome Mark !!! I'm gonna have to come up and have a lookie.. And I agree with the wheelie bar comment.. might be needing that. :-)

the fuch wheels look sharp on your t1.

I don't think it will need wheelie bars, she's designed to run flat and fast. It has 195's street tires on the rears, pretty sure they would break loose first.

The transmission is not built for drag racing, it's a 901-911 5-speed with stock 914 gearing. I'm using a Weltmeister short shift plate and all my bushings are new, but I can't believe how smooth it's shifting.
Very short throw. Fresh rebuilt at the clinic last year.
Real nice going down the 401 highway at 80mph and 3000RPM

Took a bit to sort through linkage and TB sync but I'm 95% there on that.
Still sorting though the SDS EFI mapping, it runs real smooth but I still have to tweak the mix knob for hard acceleration.
Engine temps look good but running really cool on the heads, That might be the nickies.
My injectors may be a bit too big at 55lbs (Siemans Deca) running only 15% duty cycle at cruise and don't even hit over 50% at full loud pedal. But it seems to run smooth
Lots of power for sure.

Post a video of it running... (and some throttle blips).!!!!

Pretty please

This is now relevant to my interests... I have carb cams but didn't want to ditch the IDFs because I love the sound, but I'm going to be watching this with great interest if it is something that could someday be "templatized".

Would anyone consider making some diagrams or templates for any parts that would need to be fabbed? I was thinking that if I ever do go down this road, it would be neat if I could print off plans for any brackets, adapters, and linkage bits I'd need, as a good friend of ours works in welding and fabrication. I'd also like to see the nitty gritty of getting this type of setup to work with Megasquirt, such as how the TPS, MAF, and all the other sensors needed would be set up.

Everything on this build is custom, between the engine and the car I'm betting 1500 hours.
Your friend is either going to bail on you, hate you or start charging you money.

I'm guessing, but I have at least 120 hours in the TB's alone. I didn't make templates.
At first things went fast enough that I thought about making and selling a few sets, but I think know it's not worth it.

If anything my Friend would show me how to do things, not just do all the work. If I discover things deeply out of my pay grade I'd pay him. That, and there's a pretty solid welding/fabbing/machining presence up in this area. If I gan get back into 3d design stuff like CAD (used to use 3DS Max for game models), maybe someone can print them out on a 3d printer. If everything mates properly, then CNC out of aluminum?

I figure this all would involve a lot of machining, especially in trying to get the TBs to align with and mate to the intakes, and especially getting the linkages sorted out! Then of course there's the fuel rails that would need to be correct for the TB's spacing, am I right? I see the issue of having to fab everything up.

In terms of the linkages, is it extremely complicated getting each pair of TBs slaved to each other? I was trying to think if you could rig up a system similar to Tangerine's pulley/slave style and have a TPS on the "master" TB?

Mark, I am using 30# per hour injectors in mine...max out at 85% duty cycle...like you said, most of the time the duration of squirt is very small...

My motor is megasquirt...the linkage I am using now is Chris's cable linkage...a little touchy to set up but a big improvement over the hex bar..

Throttle bodies are readily available TWM, Jenvey or Weber....

If you're paying just go for the Weber Or CB TB's, they are a bolt on.

Basically I made everything, saved me a boatload of coin, but that's not counting the time.
$80 for the TB's (ebay), the manifolds were free, $48 for the linkage ends (FLAPs) and $50 for the air filter assemblies (cip1) and $50 for the injectors (ebay).
Say about $100 for FI hose, clamps and fittings, etc.
Pump is from a VW van, the oil filled pump pressure gauge cost me $15
Most of the rest I had kicking around (just taking about the intake here).

I bought the SDS almost 10 years ago it had the TPS, MAP, etc.
The O2 meter is about 6 years old I've used it on many cars.