Greetings to all! I'm new here, just discovered it after having been on the 914 Rennlist mailing list for quite some time.

I have a '74 914 that I'm converting to be an electric car -- bought it without its engine, and I'm trying to bring it back to life. In tearing it apart, I've learned much about the 914 and all the wonderful little places that rust likes to hide. One of the worst, however, was discovering that the most of the right side of the engine compartment wall (where the battery box is) must have rusted out pretty significantly, because someone cut the entire thing out and welded in a patch. Even this is rusting a little bit, which makes me rather unhappy. Interestingly, however, when I removed the rocker panels, the longitudinals appeared to be in great shape, and the car has no body flex that I can see. What concerns me, besides the fact that this patch is somewhat rusty, is the fact that the original structure seemed to be two sheets of metal at slight angles to one another, and I have to wonder whether or not this patch will be strong enough. If I stick 700lbs of batteries in the car, is it going to snap? Or is most of the weight resting on the lower longitudinals?

I'm sorry I can't get really good pictures of it -- it's kind of an awkward area to get at. Since I'm trying to build an electric car more than restore a 914, I'd rather not have to go tearing the body panels off to weld more stuff in there. But do I have to in order to make sure my car won't break?

Thanks in advance,
Ben

Welcome to the club!

Engman, who is a member here, makes a Long reinforcement kit that you weld into the inner longs inside the cabin. That might be right up your alley. But, if you want to check the body flex, jack the car up one the passenger side and watch the top of the door gap. There is a good chance it will flex. Longs are deceiving. They can look nice and pristine on the outside, but inside it is another story.

Hmm, that kit sounds like a good start! Where do I get it (how do I get in touch with Engman), and how much does it cost?

Thanks
-Ben

Here's the install:
Install documentary

Great kit and easy to install.

KT

Yes, pictures...here goes! I've tried to explain what we're looking at as well as I can.

http://users.wpi.edu/~molain/rust/

Wecome Ben!
We've got a few EV's on this list now.
Those pictures look like a pristine rust free car.
Well, for a 914 it is anyway!

My opinion is that you've got nothing to worry about. Maybe replace the patch and be sure to stop the rust.
People on this list seem to love POR 13 or some such thing. I'm sold on Rust Converter myself.

Weight is no problem, Check out my car. I've got over 1100 lbs of batteries and motors in the middle. Brad predicts that the frame will crack near the rear shocks but I'm still waiting. The motor mounts, that was another story. The motors were slamming into the firewall when they let go. I was wondering why the engine lid latch no longer held. Turns out it was moved back almost an inch.
Be nice to your transmission, don't ever use first gear and you should be OK.

Are you doing a Electro Automotive kit or building your own?

Hey Otmar, thanks for the reply!

I've also been a member of the EVDL for a year and a half and I know all about the CA POP E -- I've used your photo album several times as a guide (like figuring out how many Optimas I can fit).

I'm not doing the electro auto kit. Far too expensive for what it has to offer, and far too slow for a Porsche. I did use them for an adapter plate though. I picked up a used 9" ADC from Bob Rice a while back and a used T-Rex 1000 from Jim Coate. Sorry, no Zilla for me...yet. I want one but my wallet tells me it'll have to wait. Getting the car up and running is my priority. My plan is to do a 196V system with 16 Optima YT's. Looking at your conversion I was thinking I'd put 5 up front where the gas tank was, as you did, and the other 11 in the engine compartment.

Thanks again! You just saved me a lot of work, at least until later.
- Ben