On my conversion, the first thing I had found when it was done, that after 3 years of rubbing, the one bolt that mounts the intercooler had been left a bit too long, and had rubbed a spot on one of the wires on top of the engine, where the connector is. It had apparently controlled the fuel pump, and so I shortened the bolt and used some silicone caulking on the wire, and I thought that was the end of the story. I think it is a separate issue from these others??

I don't know if these other 3 are related to each other, or not?

Randomly, like maybe once a week, if you are driving down the Interstate, it may cut out for a second or two, and then just go on like normal.
Also, the idle speed is usually about 1,000 but sometimes it will only idle about 500 rpm.
This last one, it had not done it for about 2 months, but I went into the store and came back out, and it would not start, till I waited about 8 minutes, and then it started right up.

Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions on what it could be, or if all 3 are related to something?

Not enough information to give you a reasonably useable answer.

The Cap'n

Inspect the entire harness. It is possible that when you shorted the wire in one spot, this caused the wire insulation to melt in another spot.

Double check all grounds and improve them if possible.

I'll take another look at that particular area to see if I can see anything else.

Just on the one oddity, I wonder what would control why sometimes it will idle at 500 vs the typical 1,000?

Subaru, WRX, 2.0

I went back to check up on the spot that I fixed last fall to see if it was creating the problem again, but appears it was sealed up still, but where it had rubbed, was right at the edge of the electrical connector. I cleaned it up and used silicone caulking to seal it. I'm not sure if this is creating these other issues, but would like to be able to put a name to the connector in question, and maybe be able to take the inside out of the housing to see what I can all see, but don't know exactly how to unclip it out of the housing to take a better look. Maybe deeper in the clip, the questionable wire could be causing problems, but don't know?
If I could find the correct connector, and get a new one?

I know the rubbed wire had a direct influence with the fuel pump running/not running, which was the red wire.

It is the one with the white innards, and Orange, green, and red wiring. There is a part number on the part it clips to:

22627A A170
079800-5320
5V 11E24
Denso

Click to view attachment


Click to view attachment

According to the part number on the part, it must be a auto map sensor?

http://www.alibaba.com/product-gs/78710637...22627AA170.html

If I can get the part that snaps over it, would help eliminate, if that is the problem area?

Check the entire length of the burnt wire. Not just where you see it burnt.

Copper is a great heat conductor. It will transfer the heat all the way across the circuit.

I once saw a circuit in a house that shorted to ground and the breaker did not trip. The wire melted from one side of the house to the other side. It also melted the other wire touching it.

I had a 42 Willis Jeep. There was an unfused wire under the hood and it touched ground. The cabin filled with smoke. I poped the hood and through the smoke, I saw a glowing red wire. Just like a heating element. I had no choice but to grab it to stop the car from burning down. I had a scar on the palm of my hand for months.

Another clue is after coming out of Wally World today, again it did not start till it sat for about 10 minutes. I'm no mechanic, but it makes me thing something has to cool off before it starts again, but is intermittent. Is there anything that would allow that to happen?

I'm wondering if it acts up, if I could hook up the cobb port to it, if it would tell me anything?

I'm waiting to hear back about getting the female end of a connector that I can splice in. It rubbed along the edge of the connector, and maybe good, but if I replace it, it is one less thing to have to consider.

I put on a new battery cable in place of the old trans ground cable, and when I went to start it, I thought I was starting a rocket ship, with the difference it made. Don't know if it was still the original cable or not, but must have gotten weak over the years. At least two of the problems have gone away. Time will tell on the other 3 oddities. I'm guessing they were a by product of the cable, I'm hoping.

I did get a new connector on the way also, to replace the one that went to the MAP sensor, with the wire that I had used the silicone caulking on, most likely it would have been ok, but this way there is no debate if it will cause problems down the road.

If the low idle is when the lights or other high amp draw accessories are turned on then your new ground cable may have corrected your low idle.

Jon