Decided to pull the pass seat and see what it looked like under there. Not to bad actually, every time I read a rust post I got scared.

Here's a pic of the back window behind the pass side back pad. Is there supposed to be something holding the window in besides the sealing tape that is hangin down.

Also is that grey covering on the firewall stock, sound deadening maybe?

Here's a pic under the pass seat, looks good.

Yes there is.
After you fix and seal the window you will notice a huge difference in noise.

George

Gray pad is stock, "sealing tape" is not. Use 3M Window Weld to install. 3M parts number 08610. Available at most NAPA stores. Use a putty knife to remove the window, clean the area with lots of brake cleaner (or something else) to get the old gunk off. Clean the window up real nice. It's not worth resealing it if you don't clean the surfaces 100%.

that tape you see is an attempt to stop the leak has nothing to do with holding the window in. the trim pieces and the buytle ( sp wrong ) hold it in.

it takes about an hour to do the window, just pick up the seal at flaps. there are some plastic spacers under the glass, if still factory, but dont need em. just be careful half the time the window falls out as you take out the trim.

there is a tech article at PP on this.

BTW pick up the seal that is on the out side, from the fire wall to engine lid, best time to do

Yep, clean the channel and reseal the rear window. Also pull out the factory sound deadening pad (interior) and check underneath. I thought mine interior looked pretty solid until I pulled mine out.....

Most say to take out the rubber pad, but if the window is sealed correctly I don't see the harm in leaving it in.

After looking at your window pic again, it's obvious that water has been making its way into the passenger compartment. Definitely remove the rubber pad to see what, if any, damage has been done. And since you've got your seat out, pull back the carpet a little to get a look at the seatbelt attach points, mine were rusted out. And while you've got it this far apart, you might as well........

The black tape on the bottom of the window is stock, thats the way mine came from the factory.

Since he didn't say anything about the window leaking or that it was loose. I wouldn't start removing it unless you need to.
And I to have found the black tape on 914s that I have torn apart were stock untouched. It is there mostly for cosmetic purpose.
CCLINREARWINDOW

after you scratch the hell out the frame area removing the old hardened butyl seal your car may look like this.

hack

Yes the window is loose, was rattling quite a bit for the couple of weeks that I drove the car.

Guess I'll pull that pad and see what it looks like underneath.

Just when I think I am moving forward (got the P&Cs back on the 2.0) I start tearing something else apart.

Welcome to the club !

also, do the "crunch test" on the floor behind the seat.
the floor is sealed with tar and if you have water standing there (because of a leaky rear window) it *will* rust under the tar.

use your thumb and press firmly on the tar and listen for a crunch noise.
the floor board has ribs, try in the lower parts of the ribs.

if you hear crunchy-crunchy, you got rust!
Andy

He didn't have to say that the window was leaking, you can see the rusty water trail running down the rubber pad. If it ran down the outside of the pad, it's a sure bet that some went down behind also........rust BAAAAAD!

Good eye Kevin.
CCLIN20/20

I've just developed an eye for rust having seen so much of it on my "Rust-Free" '74.....( ..PO's). Thought I was going to have an anxiety attack looking at the "reason I'm looking for a roller" thread ...but then again, misery loves company!

Ok guys thanks for the support. Hopefully I will have some time tonight to pull off that pad, looks like it is glued on there pretty good. Of course I will post pics when I get in there.

It's true.

Pulled off that backing crap, sure was a bitch, obviously it's been there since '71 Looked mostly good under there except this one spot. Passenger sid right next to the door.

Oh how nice right into the engine compartment, seems to be mostly the bottom corner. Will dig deeper when I pull the engine in a couple weeks. Like the wire nuts, not my doing. Most likely the same person that patched that hole with who knows what.

Last one, from underneath looking up

Ok I lied, had to throw the battery tray in.

That doesn't look too awful Sean, but I'm serious about checking the seatbelt attach points. Easy way to check is to take a wrench to the mounting bolt and crack it loose, if you don't hear any crunching it should be okay. It's definitely worth checking though.

I was totally shocked....more like pissed, when I went to change out my carpet. But I guess it's better to find out that the seatbelts were rusted out that way, than to find out when I actually needed them.

ho ho ho.... and let me tell you that the outcome would be about the same, either way..

ha ha ha..

heh


M

That rust on your firewall is from the hell hole problem you've found not your rear window.

That black tape "is" stock as a few have mentioned here. It's not an attempt to fix a leak. It actually masks the view of the back side of your back pad from the outside. Factory is about 1" electrical tape. Good luck trying to find it in that width. I once went to a 3M supplier outside of Philly and they would cut you a roll in virtually any size you want.

Old butyl tape should simply fall out if it's that hard. Try a 1" putty knife or a fat screwdriver. Both of the ones I did had the butyl literally fall out.

You asked what held it in: The butyl tape seals it but the actual "interior pieces" of the car hold in the window. The roll bar padding on the top and sides. On the bottom it should sit on a couple rubber pads.

Here's a thread I started on the subject that should take you through it step by step:

Click Here

Good luck.

Forgot to mention that that I pulled the seat belt bolt on the pass side and then pulled the carpet back a bit there. Everything looked fine, nice and solid. Still have to do the drivers side but so far it looks good there as well.

Thanks for the tip everyone.