my fuel pump is leaking on my 75 1.8 and need to replace it so my garage doesn't explode one of these days when the water heater kicks on. The car was originally FI but the guy I bought it from had converted it to carbs if that makes any difference. Any suggestions on a good replacement fuel pump?

thanks!
Dan

i have been using a facet fuel pump for years. i have never seen one fail.

thanks, could you send a link to one? or what psi should i look for?

thanks again

sure... i was gonna but got sidetracked. you should also run a pressure regulator. and regulate it to 2.5-3.0 psi. the regulator not only meters the fuel but also smooths out the pulses from the facet.

back in a minute with some links....

fuel pump isolators to keep the pump quiet. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Rubber-Mounti...p/00-9259-7.htm

pump. http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Facet-Electri...3psi-p/1008.htm

regulator. notice this regulator regulates between 2-4 pounds. its the perfect range for our use. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pfs-10663/overview/

shop around for this stuff. prices vary and maybe some of our vendors carry them. i run these parts as do many others so they are proven.

thanks so much guys. i'm about to head home from work. i'll put up a pic of what is currently going on up there and maybe you can help me make sure i'm getting all the necessary parts cuz i have no idea what the last guy changed out on this or what it is supposed to be. its a bit of a basket case.

if you starting from scratch, i would recommend a good fuel filter also. i use a one micron canton canister filter. it has replaceable filters. any good filter will work just fine.

my set up goes like this. pump to regulator to filter (in the front trunk) then thru the tunnel to the back of the car then up behind the battery tray to the back of the carbs to a T-block that has a 1/8 npt port for a small pressure gauge then about 18 inches of hose out of the tee to each carb. i can take pictures if you need em.

there are lots of tricks i have learned over the years to make your carbs bullet proof. i can share them with you if your interested. most tricks cost money but some are free. but each can be done a little at a time.

ok cool here is a pic of the current fuel pump in the trunk:


any ideas and help are welcome. From what I can tell the previous owner did a pretty clean job of converting to carbs, but whether it is ideal or not, i have no idea. I can't tell where the line goes between the fuel pump and the engine compartment if there is anything else in-line. from the engine compartment it goes into a Y for the two carbs right by the battery and thats about it. all rubber hoses except a small piece of hard plastic line by the tunnel. the other day I had a mad leak (read spray) from one of the hoses. It looks like there are two coming out from the tunnel and only one is used for the carbs. the other one was just bent over and ziptied closed. the ziptie had come off and was shooting gas all over the ground. i made a solid plug for it and is holding now. but do i need that second line, or can i do something safer with it? here is a pic:



sorry this is a lot. i really just want it to be safe and fix any of the little things the last guy may have neglected to do.

thanks

ok so looking at pumps online trying to compare prices with other sellers. the one in the link doesn't have a model number but the picture on the page says 40105. This is 40105 from pegasus which doesn't state the same specs.
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productde....asp?RecID=8440

I'm a bit confused. So basically I just need one that can do about 3 psi and the regulator will control it to keep it at 2.5 to 3 psi? am i understanding this correctly?

the second smaller fuel line is the return line from the old FI system. so its probly best to cap it off right at the tank.

the first thing i would do before i spent another dime on the car would be to replace the plastic fuel line that runs thru the tunnel. tangerine racing sells a pre-bent stainless steel setup. http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm i have never installed them but many others have and seams fairly easy. hopefully others will chime in.

From your picture under the engine, I would say the previous owner was dangerous with tools in his hands.
Consider replacing all the fuel lines (hard line and hose) in the car, from the fuel tank all the way to the carbs - at the same time as you replace your pump and filter.
This way you will know that your fuel system is safe. What you have now is a disaster waiting to happen.

the one from pegasus will be fine. you are looking for a low pressure pump when running carb. alot of the class 5 off road cars (type 4 powered) use the holley red pump. some manufacturers claim their pumps dont need regulators. cb performance and carter for instance. but carbs are pretty sensitive to pressure. so in order to cut down on trouble shooting i always run one. once your carbs are dialed in you will rarely have to mess with them. i havent touched mine in close to a year and my car is my daily driver.

Haha. After seeing how many zip ties this guy has used and things he just cut off in seemingly random places I'd agree. I was already thinking about the steel line after the fuel leak incident last week. But I feel like the pump can at least be an immediate suppressor of the garage fire hazard. I'll order both but will probably only have time for the pump until next weekend. I'd prefer not to have a renters insurance claim and be homeless. Your help is much appreciated. I'll get these ordered. I'm sure I'll be posting again when I get to the next hurdle. Mrbubblehead, looks like you aren't too far from me, do you know of someone in socal for alignment?

oh ya, i didnt even notice. your just down the road. LOL

i do my own alignment. check this thread http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...mp;hl=alignment

i am sure 911 design could do it for you. there in montclaire? clairemont?

for heavens sake...screw the facet pump. really!! for the umpteenth time...the cbperformance ROTARY pump is all you need with a filter in between the tank outlet and the pump. no fp regulator, one is REQUIRED w/facet. no fuel pressure gauge (unless you think you need to confirm the self regulated pressure) is REQUIRED to see where the regulator is set. far less connections. cap the return fitting on tank bottom the tank. place the new cb in the stock pump location for the 75/76 models. there is an access panel on the rear wall of the front trunk. the splice under under the engine is just plain wrong. if you plan on staying with carbs get chris's take on using the large supply line for earlier cars in the tunnel. no need for a return.

tank outlet to filter, filter to pump, pump to front of supply line, single line from rear of supply up thru engine tin to metal tee, branch off tee to each carb. minimal connections. don't use the slotted line clamps. get some stock shouldered ones or shouldered aftermarket.

Chris sells the kit; complete with pump, filter, ss lines, hoses and clamps. that's what I did and it fit and works great.

....I also dig facet!....another good pump is redline(if you can find 1)
I've used both!!
(dsphoto.....that looks like an early ford....fuel-filter?

too late ordered the facet already. i'm not looking to completely re-do everything. This car will never be a show car or anything fancy (unless you have some good body shop skills and a rotisserie) and is not worth putting a whole lot of money into. I just want to drive it until i can afford a nicer one worth doing up the way i want and when i have a bigger garage.

what's a shouldered clamp? i googled it and all i see is the same screw slotted type.

ford fuel filter, what? i have no idea.

this may be a stupid question, will i need to take the gas tank out to do this?

thanks again everyone. i will attempt this weekend assuming everything gets here.

So according to the site, I need the one piece supply line only in 9.5mm, correct?

http://www.tangerineracing.com/stainlessfuellines.htm

Yes.

im not sure what a shoulder clamp is. but i use fuel injected hose clamps. they have a rolled edge so the edge of the clamp doesnt dig into the hose. if rhodyguy approves of them course.

speaking of rotisseries. i just finish mine today. well almost finished.

cool. will order. i assumed the shoulder clamp was a less damaging clamp, but didn't know if there was something specific.

nice rotisserie! makes body work, sand blasting, cleaning etc for complete resto so much easier. my dad has one we used for a 74 duster strip down, but it is 2000 miles away so useless to me. wouldn't fit in my garage anyhow. I wish, some day down the road.
gotta be careful with the convertibles though so the frame doesn't get twisted. dad's old coworker twisted one and never did get it to sit right after putting it back together.

looks awesome

right! i need to brace the doors. i just couldnt wait to see if my design would even work.... i think it could hold a dump truck. LOL

looks right on with the commercial ones, maybe even heavier duty.
just without the adjustable legs and arms and center tube between the wheels lengthwise (but looks like you might have that in the design, just not in place yet?). So you have a daily driver and then this one?

ya, i just need the 2" tube to connect the two stands. thats why its not complete yet.
yes, i have one on the road and one in the air. the one in the air will be my dream car...

go get 'er! i hope to be at that point in a year or two. i know exactly what i want to make but i'm not about to waste all that time and energy to try and do it with the one i have.

modern, not cloth, wrapped fuel line in 9.5mm should be readily avail. the 'shouldered' version of the clamps are what came on the cars orig. pony up for a quality regulator and gauge. you'll need them. don't forget the 4 extra clamps you'll need for the connections.

i would remove/clean the tank, replace the tank screen, and be done with that aspect. a few members chasing carb demons have eventually found their tanks completely fouled with rust and screens sucked flat.

The facet pumps are LOUD. The rotary pumps are so much nicer!
I ran the 3.5lbs rotary pump from CB Performance and it was great. And quiet.

http://www.cbperformance.com/ProductDetail...roductCode=3193


And take a look at this too:
http://www.914world.com/specs/SirAndyCarbFuelPumpRelay.php

I know you have your pump in the front, but you may still be able to use the stock wiring.

you just have to take the stock harness end off as a cb pump has dif connectors. leave enough wire on the plug on the harness to repair the change, 2 spade ends and you're off to the races. i think the cb pump may fit in the stock pump bracket. no need for any isolators so it doesn't sound like a can of marbles being shaken. sounds like he's committed to the facet. good luck with your selection.

Dan,
I started putting your order together and realized the 9.5mm supply line isn't the best choice to go in your '75 chassis.
The plastic line currently installed is 8mm. The tank outlet fitting is 8mm.
The pump fittings are screw-in so you can use whatever you like.
The carbs probably have 8mm fittings on the inlet.
I can switch everything to the 8mm size on the order if that seems right to you too.
With the difference in price on the hose and clamps I can include a cap for the tank return fitting and still refund $3 to you.
Chris

hey chris, thank you for the advice. I will take your professional advice. If you think the 8mm is best, lets do that. I honestly have no idea what the last guy did, but it looks like he changed as little as possible to get the carb conversion done.

dan

thanks again everyone. I got the facet today. (had ordered it before any other suggestions were made) I'm not too concerned about the noise since i can barely hear the new stereo and speakers on the freeway and i feel like i was at a rock concert after driving the 10-15 minutes to work. i've never heard a 4 cyl so loud without a fart can on it. i really just want something that will work so i can drive it without worrying. and thanks for the advice on cleaning the tank and replacing the screen. i was already thinking about the tank cuz i'm sure the last guy didn't do anything with it. just slapped on the cheapest fuel pump he could find at autozone and said done. i still have much to learn, but hey, thats why i bought this one. get the learning done on a basket case then when i'm ready, buy a roller and make the one i really want.

i will keep coming back here and re-reading everything as i go along.

you're doing it the right way . clean and new nose to tail. you saved a ton on shipping and got good advise going thru chris.

so got the facet put in temporarily where the previous POS was and guess what, the leak is gone and runs great even without the regulator.

i just used the old fuel filter for now since it fit the hole on the facet. I'll go get a new one when the rest of the puzzle pieces come in for the all fresh system, hopefully this week.

any ideas how to clean off the old dripped fuel from under the tank? wd40 works good for grease, will it work for gas or just make it worse?