so my eric shea rear hubs are here, and now im just left to find some lug nuts and some five lug rear rotors. The guy i bought my motor from said to just bolt my adapter on and drill it out by hand. Is this a good idea? Is there a rotor from something else that is the same but five lug? THis is for the REAR.

for the rear rotors, just re-drilling them is fine...when it comes time to get new rotors, just buy the /6 rotors which have the correct 5x130 pattern already

you don't have to be super accurate since the wheels are located by the studs....

you might want to redrill them so that you can still use the 2 little screws to hold the rotor onto the hub...

so the 6 rear rotors arent vented or offset different in any way? i may just buy them right off.

I'm 90% sure they are not vented and the offset is a tad different, a washer would fix that....hopefully someone with the exact answer will chime in here

The Six rotors are not vented, they are not offset any differently. They are very slightly larger in diameter, so some have needed a little (like 1-2mm) grinding on the edge of the rotor or on the inside of the caliper (not recommended) to make them work. Others have had them fit with no problems.

--DD

They run like $50....just like a Hummer....

Turning down the edges will help on clearance like the DDDDDDD mentioned.....cleaning up the casting inside the caliper will too....just don't go crazy.

Me disagrees with DD (sorry Pookie)

I recommend grinding the amount needed off the caliper "IF" it's even needed. I have yet to come across a real world issue here (others post please "IF" you've actually had to clearance the rotor/caliper). After having the calipers apart I can tell you, you'd have to grind pretty far to hit oil.

Reasons:

1. The amount needed to grind off the caliper is minuscule at best and, you'll only have to do it once.

2. Grinding (turning down) the rotor will have to be performed every time you get new rotors.

3. Grinding the calipers can be accomplished by one Dan Jauch with a die grinder, Dremel tool or electric drill with the proper bit.

4. Turning down the rotors needs to be done at a machine shop on a lathe ($$).

Finally, I recommend getting new 914-6 rotors.

My $0.02 (threw that in there for Qarl)

I have!

On a car I purchased I had a really bad leak in the rear drivers side caliper. When I removed the caliper to see what I could... It was cracked. You could see were the rotor had rubbed the crap out of it, it wasnt deep but enouph to make heat.

I had another car that I pulled a caliper from and put it on and there were no problems with clearance. So I would sugest checking.

Woohoo!

I did the exact same thing (I went from rivs to phone dials using eric's hubs) and everything seemed to clearence okay. I got new -6 rotors on sale from performance products ($45) too.

Thanks Muddboy,

It would be cool to have an answer as to which years etc... I suspect the rear calipers changed a little. Again... all of the people I've sold hubs to have basically bolted up -6 rotors with no problems.

A small amount of grinding sounds like it would save one from the "cracked" caliper fate. I'll bet "later" cars had no problems. Maybe very early rear calipers are the ones?

BTW: There's a Mexcian Restaruant in your area that is the best! (can't remember the name)

El Faralito?....

The car is a '73 that it happend on... I am assuming that the calipers were orginal. The ones that I bandaided it with were from a '72. And its still going.

But out of curiousity, I plan of going back to 4 lug. I have the rear hubs from the '72, but I need rotors for all for corners witch means that my current hubs/rotors will be available. All the rotors are still useable, I can even put a new surface on 'em.


hmmmmmmm?

My car is a 75 had to grind down the 914/6 rotors or they would not fit.... Think it was about 3-4 mm

what are erics hubs?????

I looked in the resource section, nada

rich

these? (I guess I should stick them in the Resource section... )

I have done a few 5-bolt conversions using redrilled rear hubs and factory /6 rear rotors and never had any clearance issues.

FWIW.

Eric:

I looked at your stuff in resource section. Pretty cool set up, but I had some questions. Is that whole kit (700-800 dollar one) include everything for both front and rear? I was confused with the stub axles. Im guessing the stubs go on rear and hubs go on front. I am confused?

Thanks,
Drue