Hey guys, I'm a new 914 owner and have been a 914 "wanter" for some time. I bought a car that I knew needed engine work but it had a great body!
So now I am looking at the engine work and I am thinking up upgrading my EV case 1.8L engine to a 2.0.
I've never worked on a air cooled motor before and from what I gather this conversion is pretty straight forward. However, having said that I'm not convinced that it's as easy as just buying larger pistons and cylinders.
Can someone please spell out for me all the parts that are different from a 1.8 to a 2.0L engine if there isn't too much? I'd really appreciate it!
I did search the forum and didn't find any topic covering this.
-JR-
Full Version: 1.8 to 2.0 engine conversion
Good question, I am starting same project
Are you going to use carbs or FI?
Oh and Welcome, you have come to the right place.
Oh and Welcome, you have come to the right place.
It's got dual webbers on it right now actually. Someone converted it in the past. I'll have to check the cam once I get it appart to see if they also changed that.
cranks are different
66mm for 1.7/1.8
71mm for 2.0
rods are different
heads are different (2.0 heads a little better, but tend to crack more often)
pistons and cylinders are different
you can add larger pistons and cylinders to your existing engine...the most common would increase it to a 1911, but it'll still be a short stroke engine
66mm for 1.7/1.8
71mm for 2.0
rods are different
heads are different (2.0 heads a little better, but tend to crack more often)
pistons and cylinders are different
you can add larger pistons and cylinders to your existing engine...the most common would increase it to a 1911, but it'll still be a short stroke engine
Shameless plug:
My classified ad for 2.0 engine parts
I see you already found it JR
As far as I have been told, all these parts are the same as a 914 2.0 except the pistons (dished instead of flat) and the heads (same as a 1.8 914)
My classified ad for 2.0 engine parts
I see you already found it JR
As far as I have been told, all these parts are the same as a 914 2.0 except the pistons (dished instead of flat) and the heads (same as a 1.8 914)
Would anyone know if you can put the 2L pistons on 1.8L rods? I've heard the 2L rods are different, but I'm not sure if it's just the length or if it's also the bearing surfaces too. I just want to give my old 1.8 a little more of a kick without spending a bundle as I start my 6cyl project in about a year.
Thanks!
Thanks!
Building a 1911 would be the cheap route. You could leave the bottom end together, but as you mentioned, the cam is unknown. It's most likely stock. It's not a very good cam for carbs, but it'll still work fairly well. You're probably looking at about $1000 for new pistons and cylinders and some head work (new guides, etc).
If you want to do a 2.0 it's probably best to do a 2056. That's 96mm pistons instead of 94mm. Because you'd have to buy the crank and rods (you can't use the 1.8 rods) and because you'll have to split the case which means a new cam it'll probably run you $2500 to $3000 for that upgrade.
So the 1911 is the cheap easy route because it's just new pistons and cylinders and rebuilt heads. It'll be a blast. Add a cam and really fly.
If you want to do a 2.0 it's probably best to do a 2056. That's 96mm pistons instead of 94mm. Because you'd have to buy the crank and rods (you can't use the 1.8 rods) and because you'll have to split the case which means a new cam it'll probably run you $2500 to $3000 for that upgrade.
So the 1911 is the cheap easy route because it's just new pistons and cylinders and rebuilt heads. It'll be a blast. Add a cam and really fly.
QUOTE(markd@mac.com @ Dec 5 2004, 12:31 AM)
Building a 1911 would be the cheap route. You could leave the bottom end together, but as you mentioned, the cam is unknown. It's most likely stock. It's not a very good cam for carbs, but it'll still work fairly well. You're probably looking at about $1000 for new pistons and cylinders and some head work (new guides, etc).
If you want to do a 2.0 it's probably best to do a 2056. That's 96mm pistons instead of 94mm. Because you'd have to buy the crank and rods (you can't use the 1.8 rods) and because you'll have to split the case which means a new cam it'll probably run you $2500 to $3000 for that upgrade.
So the 1911 is the cheap easy route because it's just new pistons and cylinders and rebuilt heads. It'll be a blast. Add a cam and really fly.
If you want to do a 2.0 it's probably best to do a 2056. That's 96mm pistons instead of 94mm. Because you'd have to buy the crank and rods (you can't use the 1.8 rods) and because you'll have to split the case which means a new cam it'll probably run you $2500 to $3000 for that upgrade.
So the 1911 is the cheap easy route because it's just new pistons and cylinders and rebuilt heads. It'll be a blast. Add a cam and really fly.
Unfortunetly the bottom end is the reason for the work. The car was a recovered stolen vehicle. Someone has run the bag off it and I think it needs rod bearings and I'm not sure what else at this point. I am really hoping I can just slap on some 2L pistons and cylinders just by them themselves. I've got a line on parts to do just that from a few locations. I can do all the work myself and I've set a $300 rough budget for myself because it's not worth me spending anymore on the motor then I can sell it for. I'll be selling the motor and transaxle from this car in about a year, so as long as it still runs ok by then, that's all I'm looking to do. Of course though, if I can squeeze a little more "Kikky-pop" out of it until then and keep around the same budget; well all the better!
Thanks!
QUOTE
I am really hoping I can just slap on some 2L pistons and cylinders just by them themselves.
the diameter of the 1.8 p/cs are the same as the 2.0 pistons and cylinders, so you gain nothing, it would still be a 1.8......but due to the different location of the piston pins on the 1.8s and the 2.0 motors, this would not work at all....the compression would be so low that the motor might not even start
Not true.
1.8L is 93mm bore and 2.0L is 94mm bore.
Just fyi, I just went and bought a 2.0 to change mine. With the gain of HP due to the 2.0L 3 stud heads is the main reason to do the swap.
1.8L is 93mm bore and 2.0L is 94mm bore.
Just fyi, I just went and bought a 2.0 to change mine. With the gain of HP due to the 2.0L 3 stud heads is the main reason to do the swap.
QUOTE(qa1142 @ Dec 5 2004, 10:32 AM)
Not true.
1.8L is 93mm bore and 2.0L is 94mm bore.
Just fyi, I just went and bought a 2.0 to change mine. With the gain of HP due to the 2.0L 3 stud heads is the main reason to do the swap.
1.8L is 93mm bore and 2.0L is 94mm bore.
Just fyi, I just went and bought a 2.0 to change mine. With the gain of HP due to the 2.0L 3 stud heads is the main reason to do the swap.
1mm is close enough
they still won't work......maybe it's the OD of the cylinders that is the same
a "true" 2.0 is nice due to the extra torque the longer stroke gives you and the few extra HP the 2.0 heads give you (8 to 10 hp or something like that)
I have a 1911 with 2.0 heads, nice motor, but it's coming apart so that I can sell the heads with the rest of the correct 2.0 block...easier to sell a complete engine
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