Lesson learned #11- before attempting this at home, get the alignment checked on a frame machine. I built custom door/chassis reinforcement bars before going on the rotisserie. Assuming that the PO had repaired the longitudinals correctly.

After 12 years, the car finally landed on the jack stands. As the original Dorris were thoroughly rusted out, I had replacement doors. Bolted the replacement doors on, and the don't fit. Bolted original doors on and they do with funky gaps....

Put the reinforcement bars on and the fit like I had built them.. looked at how the front strut upper plates were located. One has never moved based on factory tar, the other one had been moved 1/4-3/8"

Damn, why didn't I catch that years ago...

Did test assemble, top, doors gaskets. Car is square but the longs appear to be bowed, fortunately evenly.

Put the reinforcement bars on and they fit like I had built them..

Based on the targa top fitment, it Looks like the car is bowed 1/4-3/8".

Door fitment (replacement doors) - front gap is good and even, the rear is 3/8" high at the body line (stack of 5 US Quarters).

Hung the original doors, drivers door is spot on, rusted at the bottom and evidence of a cut and re weld between the hinges. Damn-it, unbolted the doors, put them on the shelf in the basement and ignored them for 10+ years


Now, how to fix it....

1) bolt suspension on, ship to frame shop, have them tweak the body and align the suspension before reassembly. (There is a near local shop that all the local 914 people swear by). The advantage is, I can use my special tool (Louisville Slugger, that has never hit a ball) to roll the fenders to accommodate 15x7 w/195/60/15s

2) now that it is on jackstands, (800-1200# sand/weight) in the passenger compartment and let gravity do its thing over the winter, while I work on other details, engine, trans, etc...

Looking for better ideas, suggestions?


What's pissing me off, is all the work and years on the rotisserie, I'm sure did not cause the bend/bow..

It's not that far off, not twisted, but definitely solid

US quarter measuring system

With a good door

Front gap

At least, withe the suspension on, I can use my special tool to roll the fenders

BTW. The white shell has been tested on three cars and fit perfectly

Is this 914 the Six you have ??, If so all the repiars to the front wheel houses and the bottom of the longs and the floor is what shrunk it from the bottom side..

rick918-s has a Celette bench with 914 fixtures. That's the only way to get it 100% factory straight. He's in Minnesota...if I had a bowed 914-6 that I worked my arse off on I would send it to Rick.

"Hung the original doors, drivers door is spot on, rusted at the bottom and evidence of a cut and re weld between the hinges" The original passenger door, the gaps are small at the bottom on both sides and large at the top on both sides. The original doors, open, close, latch just fine. The original doors arre too rusty, so I had moved on to replacement doors and thats where I found the problem.

I probbably did not cause the bow as the original doores had been mangled to appear to fit right. I was well aware of the warp issues with welding. And I made sure to take my time and allow the areas to cool

Wow! That this is twisted!

I have plans to do a chassis repair video over the winter. I want it to be two parts. Part one, repairing a slightly tweeked chassis with the driveline and suspension in and a full on bent car like yours. If you can't get it straight locally I would discount the repair if I could use it your car in my video.

Thats a deal!