Anybody got a recommendation on how to remove all the adhesive they used to hold the engine bay pad in. Wont come off very well with a wire brush and carb cleaner just makes me high.

I am up against the same problem. Back in September I messed with it a little when it was 70 degrees around here. Just for fun I went out just a minute ago and tried scraping at it with a screwdriver, it worked! Now, it is about 38 degrees today, but I think if you got it nice and cold with an icepack or better yet some dry ice, it would scrape right off. My guess is no solvent you want to get anywhere as near is going to touch that stuff.

At my shop we use the 2" & 3" green 3M bristle disc with a Roloc holder in a angle die grinder. Works very well except in the very corners, where use a razor blade scraper.

30 year old adhesive is hard to remove, but I guess I don't have to tell you that!

Acetone will cut the glue... and also remove some of the paint..... Its Nasty stuff WEAR a
Resperator if you use Acetone.

When I repaint the engine bay I'm going to use a textured coating, so I'm halfway there already.

KT

Use spray on or brush on paint remover...I found it to be the best. Use a plastic scraper and take down to metal and correct any rust. Once your done use POR15 , prime and paint the whole deal. I used a 2 part acrlic enamel...has a great shine but you need an touch up gun and it's trick to manuever but worth it.

Before:

After:

After:

With engine in [and after cleaning up some of the overpsray]:

3M has a paint stripper wheel that mounts to a standard drill. I used them to remove multiple layers of floor paint from 50 year old concrete steps when liquid paint stripper failed. There's a similar flat disc style that mounts to a 4.5" grinder. Lowes had those. I also saw another paint stripper at Homer Depot that looked like 1" wires mounted on a drum that looked promising.

Hey Paul, engine bay is looking good!

Standard (500 grade) lacquer thinner will cut the contact cement in the engine bay, and on the sail panel. Wear a respirator or work outdoors.

i wish i had known the 3M trick. hours with carb cleaner, wire wheels, scrapers... the oil eater product from costco works great for degreasing the bay, then i hooked up the hose to the hot water for the washer to rinse it. most auto paint outfits can color match to your paint code, and put it in spray cans. i used self etching primer.

kevin

Peter, what kind of air intake is that? Looks really trick. Where did you get it, does it work well?

The PO made it and it does work. I will be doing a post with pics in a few days.

Peter

lacquer took it right off for me without destroying the paint. I was able to repaint right over the stock paint with just a little touch sanding after cleaning the glue off.

Geoff

Just did mine the same way. Nice sharp wood chisels worked fine for major removal. In cool temps with no solvents used, stuff just breaks up and falls off. Then wire brush remnants, vacuum, and wipe with solvent (I used acetone). Not CW quality but OK for me.

180 grit sandpaper on a d/a....

Hey Guys and Gals, If you are going to spend all of that time and effort to remove the pad in the engine bay. Take a few more minutes and remove the tabs that were used to hold the pad in place around the edges. It will clean up the engine bay and get rid of those nasty sharp tabs that you get your arms,fingers,and clothing caught on, leaving a nice tear on your skin or sleeve.
CCLINNADA

Thanks guys. I'm going to pull it outside and try both acetone and laquer thinner and see which one works best.

Great timing on this thread, i'm starting this job this week...

I have yet to decide weather or not to put in a different pad or not,

Ferg.

I had a party once and a friend of mine had a little too much to drink. She ended up puking all over my front step. When I went out to clean it up the next morning, it had peeled all of the paint off the step. I could try and bottle some of it, if you want to give it a try!