I'll only post two shots.

I've cut the right rear fender and sail panel off and the inner fender panel out. The inner fender was rusted out pretty good so I went ahead and removed it. The top of my frame rail is gone. I can look into the rail through the opening. There in only minor surface rust inside.

Its really hard to see all the bars and what has been cut out.
The fender is laying on the ground in the back ground.

Holy shit!

Somebody take away his sawzall!

Good god man.....

Soon you will only have some tubing and a steering wheel. You really need to learn when to quit.

You must have had a SERIOUS rust problem....

Perhaps you should have built the tube frame first and hung 914 bodywork on it.


Actually,

Lookin' good. It should go like hell since it won't weigh anything.

I need to weld in the bars and roll it out in the daylight to get a good shot of it.

Cutting the quater panel off was a major PITA. The area where the door jam meets the firewall and the sheet metal duct for the rear window defogger gave me the most trouble.
It just a hard area to get access to.

Paul

In the first shot you car see thru the car to the ground in front of it.
Talk about air cooled!

Paul

You need to get rid of what's left of the firewall behind your seat. That's gotta weigh a ton.

It'll be coming out when I do the left side.

Please excuse my terrible Photoshop skills. I'll work on it.

I'd like to see a tube in the position represented by the black line (obviously it would pass under the other two tubes, but like I said, I'll work on my Photoshop skills.

Thiis is what is typically done and what I plan on doing.

That thing would haul ass with even a lawnmower engine on its last leg!!!! I dont think I want to try and imagine what it would be like with a 1.7!!!

I'll take it if you're just going to throw it away! I can stick my hand through mine

Sure you can have it. Is there enough there for you to use?

Oh yeah, plenty. Mines rusted out right below the "X" pattern. I was going to just scab a patch over it (hey....quit throwing rocks people! ), but a piece of original metal would be MUCH better! Let me know how much for the shipping:

Pacific, MO 63069

It's all yours.

I gotta big cardboard box full of sheet metal

I think it's safe to say you've wildly departed from what is 'typically done' at this point.

Maybe you should do both, IMHO.

I wish I had pictures of what we did (which is similar), but I'm out of town and can't post a pic.

Our tube angles out ward and forward instead of inward and forward. Ours starts just ahead of the suspension console hole (trailing arm mount hole) and extends forward through the lower firewall and terminates on the interior longitudinal (almost directly under our roll cage hoop close to the seat belt mount). This looks to be the direction that the suspension console would move under heavy cornering. (the pivot point being the outer trailing arm mount {3-bolts}).

Just my $0.02

I'll be adding RacerChris' outer console stiffing kit also (its on his website).
I think I'll be OK.

I'm trying to balance between adding weight with too many bars and getting the most stiffness with just the right amount of bars. I could have used 2" bars for everything and it would be strong but a heavy pig. Being that this is a autox car only I don't need to provide side impact bars or bars surrounding the fuel cell. I'm going strictly for enough stiffness to offset the flex.

P

Paul, you and Mueller scare the shit out of me!
Neither one of you can leave well enough alone!

Dang Paul! That just rocks!

you tie that thing down whne not in use? looks like a effin kite man!

Lookin good Paul,that thing should go like stink with any engine in it!!!
Talking to some of my engine builder wannabe friends.typically "v" engines have more "peak torque" and inline engines have more lowend so for Autox I would put the 944 engine in..........02$ worth

SteveSr

If you remove just a bit more they'll put you in the FSAE class.

I'm thinking maybe shifter kart

P