Hi All,
I'm sooo pissed!!
Okay. Call me slow. Guilty. Bought a 2165cc from JCS QUALITY AIR COOLED ENGINES - about a year ago. When I pulled the old engine I steam cleaned the engine bay - and my "rust-free" teener, without her panties on looked like HELL HOLE - HELLO. So I kind of got side tracked taking care of anything I could grind, repair & coat with por-15 - I got a 'lil crazy + I said I was slow.

Fast forward: I've got some "free time" today, so I decided I should put my beer down & drill & tap the heads of my "new" 2165 that DOESN'T have vent tubes. BTW - Purchased from JCS in Irwindale, Ca. just about a year ago. Never been run - I said I was slow! They assure you that they have "pre-run" the engine and it has met with their q.c. standards, blah, blah, blah...

Removed v/c's, to prep heads for vent instl. & this is what I saw. I'm sooo pissed.
First pic of Cyl. Head 1/2. Second pic of 3/4. Can you effing believe this??? Looks like $hit to me. WTF should I do? What? Buyer be aware of "junk"???
I feel kind of bad 'cause it's been a year & this is the first time I've pulled the v/c's. FUCK THAT!!! I should have pulled the f'ing covers when they delivered the SOB!!!
Damn I'm soooo pissed. Am I rambling!!! More

hey! wait a second. i thought you said new. oh, wait...i missed the " ". as my friend would say, that's weak sauce.
how much did that motor run you. what does the rest of it look like? did you look at the bottom end yet?

pic#2

Uhhhh... what am I missing?

I am no machinest, but those parts look like they got some miles on them. Also, is that the retaining wire I see off to the left on the second pic? Been a while since I have seen the inside of a T4 vc, but that doesn't look right.

It's hard to tell, but I think he is referring to the sludge buildup on the rocker shafts & possibly the rockers or there are spacers..'cause I don't see springs.


OR

he's referring to the cleanliness of the rocker box looking as if it was never run. If the engine was shipped, they had to clean the oil out of it....otherwise it would be a "hazardous shipment". If it were run for a short time, it would still be "clean"...specially after sitting a year....pull the strainer screen and see if there is oil there.

Now, splain yerself!!

i agree....what am i missing?

looks alright to me

at a minimum they could have put in new adjusters. those look pretty galled up on my end.

kevin

What am I missing? What do you find wrong?

Phil

Never heard of JCS, but what did you pay for that rig?

If it was one of those deals like I have seen on e-bay for $1,250 for the whole motor, then what did you expect? At least its clean.

The only thing I see wrong is the v/c gasket in the first pic.
I see spring shims and solid rocker spacers, so they are definitely rebuilt.

Sorry. I'm a bit calmer now. I'll try to clarify my problem/bitch.
I only opened the v/covers to prep for venting the heads. No big deal. A 'lil drill & tap. Had my duct tape, grease & seran wrap to keep the metal shavings out of places it just doesn't belong... I'm ready - I popped the v/c for cyl's 1 & 2. Looks good. Then I popped the v/c for clyl's 3 & 4. This is what I saw:
The nylock self-locking nuts that attach the rocker lever assy do not seat.
So is this a question of stud length or geometry? The nylock portion of the nut is ABOVE the studs. That's not gonna work too well. In my experience, when you build airplanes, stud protrusion is suppose to be between 1 & 3 threads - that's ABOVE the f'ing stud with the nut properly torqued!!! So, short studs??? Geometry???
One or two more thing's I didn't mention before.
Yes, it's a rebuilt longblock that they say they run for break-in, compression/leak check.
I ordered it as a remanufactured 2165cc with a Webcam - D-Jet compatable hydraulic cam/lifters from http://www.importmotor.com
Here's a hopefully more helpful pic. Thanks again & !@#$%^&*, just venting...

they werent supposed to use nylocks.... the nuts are standard 11mm nuts and mine havea only a thread or 2 above the nut...

calm down....have a beer and get some new nuts

Thanks Aaron, I'll have that beer now & but I think your missing my point. For 3G's - I'm pissed. That's bullshit. Would YOU have built an engine like that??? I didn't think so. It's a rebuild. Longblock complete (supposedly) to my specs. I shouldn't have to split the case to check their work. But when you find one thing wrong... what else did they shortcut???

The nylock portion doesn't add any strength, just vibration resistance. The working part of the nuts have the correct thread engagement. It looks like there are wavy(?) washers under the nuts which will give the required vibration resistance anyway.
Yeah, they used the wrong nuts. I think you are over-reacting, but if you want, take off the nylocks and install regular 7mm nuts from the hardware store. If the washers aren't wavy style get some at the hardware store at the same time as you get the nuts. You can make sure they didn't overtighten them as well for peace of mind.

I agree with you Chris. Maybe I am over reacting. But here's a pic of one side & then the other. Why would they not have the same stud protrusion???
I just don't get it...
Nice pic:

Not nice pic:

Can't see in the pics but is there spacers under the rockers? maybe on one side not the other? I agree for that money should have been right. Yes it make the whole motor suspect.
Guess Jake will be jumping in soon.

ahh, just run it. see how long it goes, and be happy.

if it gives you even a year of happy motoring, then consider yourself lucky.

my 02

The Nylock nuts should not have been used. A Nylock is wortless unless the stud/bolt has thread protrusion. Those nuts are only grade 2 and the stock nuts are grade 8.8!

As for the rockers, they look OK to me, because that is just stained metal from years of service. I bought a tumbler to use in removing those stains from my rockers without having to spend days bead blasting each one. The main question is if they are clean inside and can deliver oil to the rocker shafts, and springs.. Maybe, maybe not..

They used rocker shaft spreings from a Hydraulic bus engine. These are better for higher revs as long as the wavy washers are not worn too thin. If they are they will break and you'll get a rattle.

The engine is cheap and mass produced. For 3K you can't bitch! I'd be more concerned with the fact that it probably has stock 2.0 rods coupled to that 78 stroke crank for a piston speed through the roof and rod angle that looks like a steeple on the local Baptist Church! Oh- And the fact that those stock valve adjusters coupled with a big cam are gonna really hurt the valve guide life span and rocker geometry. Those stock retainers and what look to be reshimmed stock springs are about the weakest combination you can use. Be glad the D Jet limits you to 5600RPM, because at about 5700 something might happen with that arrangement!

Run the piss out of it, you can't complain because you bought it for less than 1/2 the cost you would have expended to do it the "better way"!

Just my 2 cents... I'm not slamming these guys because they are not even competitors of mine at all..... They keep my doors filled with fresh jobs and make it even easier for me to satisfy my customers....

Like I said, run the piss out of it!

Just to clarify, metric grade 8.8 is equivalent to SAE grade 5.

Ok, now I understand.

1.) with the head temps, nyloc prolly wouldn't do shit as the loc material would soften up, but maybe they had an excess of nylocs and you were the benefactor.

2.) Stud length.....you would have to remove the rockers to see if the studs were fully seated on one side and not the other.

3.) Shims - we routinely used shims for two purposes....A) to set the installed height exactly where we wanted it and to avoid the bottom of the steel coil digging into the aluminum as it bounced around at high rpm. This was with NEW springs.

4.) The rockers and spacers don't look that dirty to me and we didn't run ours in a tumbler to make them shiny clean on reuse.

Wind it up and let'er rip

Other than that, I ain't got crap to say.

at least your motor didnt have peices of cooling fins broken off like my POS from JCS... You really get what you pay for in the type iv engine world.
They did take mine back, but I had to pay the shipping! I would rather have a used 2.0 from somebody I kinda know than anything from Jeff and Dwyane...

Thanks everybody for your input/advise.
Just finished venting the heads. I'll change out the nylocks next. Would my FLAPS have the nuts I need???
I agree with Jake & everyone that said "run it hard" ohhh, I will.
If I had had the cash, I would not have "settled" for this engine. It was simply within my budget - short term.
I'll have one of Jake's F.I. 2270's sooner or later. But for now, I'm gonna have to be content with getting her off the f'ing jackstands. Then I'll get it on a dyno to make certain that it's not too lean with the stock d-jet. I'll install the head temp guage prior to lite-off & keep my eye's open. The stock 2.0 that ran damn good for 4 years ALWAYS ran rich, so keep your fingers crossed that a few more cc's doesn't make "that" big of a difference for a daily driver.
Here's a before & after of the vents.

And:

you just answered your own questions ...

i'd open the engine up and see what kind of junk they sold you.
ask brad about his experience with importmotor engines ...
Andy