trekkor mentioned a location is this thread.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=222873

how about on cheese head screws and head exhaust nuts?

head nuts, exhaust nuts, wheel studs, tie rod nuts, torsion bar ends .... anything that is exposed to water or heat where it could possibly rust and corrode.

I always wonder if the anti seize could effect the effectiveness of the torque holding the fastener in place. I guess there is no reason for concern.

so maybe my 2nd question should be, where not to use it?

jim

As far as torque values, if the instructions say "torque dry" I don't use it. Otherwise, it's fair game.

Jim, I was thinking the same thing a while back.

Talked to Steve Weiner at Rennsport Systems and he said the same thing as Ron. I was thinking you'd have to compensate for the material in the threads.

I like the stick Loctite type. Super easy to use. I started using it on the exhaust on my 911 about 15 years ago. Haven't stopped since.

A must for any locations where dissimilar metals (aluminum and steel) come together and you want them to come back apart at some point.

Spark plugs

I use a tiny bit on the spherical landings on lug nuts, but not the threads. It keeps the wheels from galling. That works well on aluminum 911 lug nuts as well.

Ball joint to strut pins (NOT the threads). Engine tin screws.

Axle nuts and axle splines.

It seems that most torque values are listed as dry torque, so if you use a lubricant on the threads, adjust the torque value lower by 10-15%. The torque is used to put the bolt under tension. As the threads contribute to rotational torque because they are dry, more torque will be required to put the same amount of tension on the bolt versus a lubricated bolt, whose threads being lubed will not contribute as much to rotational torque.
Tom

OXYGEN SENSORS!!!

If you ever want to get it out again...

A must for exhaust nuts! Anything you think might give trouble later on. You must use it on steel to aluminum fasteners like cheese head screws because steel and aluminum will electrolytically turn the aluminum threads into aluminum oxide that expands and makes you drill out the fastener, and then add a replacement thread (or as my P.O did a sheet metal screw) Personally I slop the stuff onto almost anything. I like the copper, but I doubt it makes any difference besides color.

No it does affect that. They are more likely to come back off either intentionally or unintentionally. Most of us find places where we do not use a torque wrench. Need to twist just a little more with antiseize. This is based on my replacement of the 1976 exhaust system with stainless fastners after grinding off or twisting off all of the originals. Started leaving stainless on the road for a while. Torqued a bit tighter and no problem. The antiseize works with the little ball bearings but I think the silicone grease goes a long way in doing the job of excluding water. I would think some low power loctite would do as good a job as that if the fastener must remain in place. Probably not red. I know that Harbor Freight loctite is not always quite as grippy as the real thing