Check out the new Panorama, KG body on a Boxster conversion. This guy went all out.

Check out Tranzlog's custom Ghia for inspiration.
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_pag...p?pic_id=987979

Anything is possible.

Yeah, but he carved out a piece of the back firewall and sent it to me. Now I have a cover for my 914-6 access hatch. Great guy to work with. I am afraid this teener is gone though.

Hey Warren! Did the sheet metal work out ok?

He is right, the car is too far gone. I have to pull a few more things off of it and then it's going to the crusher. Here's a few pics of it stripped

I had a '66 Ghia convertible back in the early '70s. Sorry I ever sold it

A Boxter conversion sounds cool. I was thinking - how about installing a 914 drive train ''as is"? You would loose the rear seat, but it would make your Ghia into an awesome 'canyon carver' being mid-engined

Bringing your donor car back to life would require a LOT of time and $ ... but we've seen several young energetic guys bring them back from the dead without breaking the bank

I asked on your sale thread, how is the rear targa bar pad?

Sorry I thought I replied to your post on the part out thread. The targa pad was cracked and busted up.

That would be cool to make it a mid engine ghia, I don't plan to use the back seat anyway. It might be more fabrication than I want to get into though.

I used 2 cans of penetrating oil on the engine the other night, I filled the cans with it. Hopefully the pistons eventually brake loose.

The pistons broke loose. They all have std stamped in them. Is that done from the factory, or are these aftermarket? Ive only built gm engines, and none of the original pistons had std stamped in them.

A STD is nothing to clap about.

Its pretty obvious the engine was rode hard and put away wet. haha

Leave the original transmission. Change the flywheel.
The 911 901 is an hard to come by and costs more.
The shifter, shift plate, shift rod and coupler have to be used.
You would have to modify the tunnel because the nosecone of the 901
sits higher after it installs.
The late model IRS uses the newer throwout bearing. Which also requires the
removal of the "donut" and retainers from the pressure plate. Which yours
should already have.
If running the slightly larger flywheel, the bosses around the eng/trans mounting
bolts will have to be machined or dremeled to clear.
It would be best to fabricate a [rear hanger for the engine]* and fabricate a boxed
section to strengthen the transmission horns so that they don't flex or at least
use an aftermarket bus rear cradle. It has mounting points for using adjustible
heims to stop transmission horns from flexing under torque.
* see 1971 rear T3 engine mount.
~
The rear portion of the engine bay deck will have to be cut for the engine to fit.
The dimensions of width and length are greater.
You will have to play with suspension settings to limit the ass-dragger effect.
The T4 is a little heavier and you can feel it.
Everything that Mark said earlier is good. You have a choice to make. This
particularly is where money does play a large part on the outcome.
As an example, one could use the trailing arms and rear brakes from a 924.
I didn't want to cover all aspects, this is just the tip of the iceberg.
Part of the fun is researching. Some else has already accomplished this.
The data and photos are out there.

The only reason I was going to do it was because I already had the side shift 914 (915?) trans. Dr. will be able to get it set up to run in the right direction.

The article on aircooled.net seemed to be pretty straight forward, I know there's always unknowns that you will run into when doing something like that. I thought the 914 trans was close to the type 1s dimensions, and I would be able to mix match the inner axle and outer stub so it would almost be a bolt in deal. I'm new to all this so I honestly don't know.

What's the deal with aluminum cylinders? I see that they are lighter, which isn't always a good thing, but they will dissipate heat better. I'm guessing they still have a iron liner?

I got all the cylinders off, there all in ok shape except for one. It might be able to be cleaned up, but I don't think I can go to 96mm with 1.8 cans can I?

The aluminum cylinder and called Nickies from LN engineering. There are solid aluminum not cast and with a nikasil plating for the bore. They are the best but expensive. As far as using 96 cylinders they slip right in without any machining. If your cylinders are original then you can have them bored to 96, the original cylinders have the best material and buy some KB (Keith Black) pistons. Or you can purchase some 96 Chinese cylinders and run KB pistons. If you buy a cylinder with pistons set the pistons supplied are know by some not to be very good.

Nope, you have a 901. A 915 is from a 1974 or newer 911. I will assume you have resigned to using this trans, then? If so, I can spend the money for it elsewhere

Depending on which aluminum cylinders you are referring to, they can be lined with iron (biral), or they can be nickasil which have a special coating on the inside and are similar to ones used on 911 engine particularly. As far as I know, they do not have alusil for the TIV. Alusil is a hypereutectic material meaning, basically, that there is no coating because the material is the same all the way through.

Nickasil, such as LNEngineering's Nickies promise the ability of higher HP from each cylinder with stable performance due to heat loss abilities. You can go bigger with these as well, but the pistons still retain more heat the larger they get so that becomes a factor. However, unless you plan to re-engineer a bunch of parameters, this will not be a factor to you. Nickies are also expensive. It cost money to make HP, no matter how you slice it.

I hate when I am writing a long post only to have the question answered right before I post

Wrong, when using a conversion fan shroud, DTM, OPP, cali, sharpbuilt, etc this point is incorrect. A fan converted type 4 is actually narrower than a type one.
Yes. you would have to cut out this area for a stock type 4 fan shroud, but doing this way is considered a total hack.

The reason for a 901 is to get top end or road track type gearing, a VW 4-speed is better for drag racing, but it totally runs out of legs once you hit 60-70mph.
Take a 50hp vw type one vs a 160hp T1 both with a VW 4-gear, get them running even at 70 mph on the highway and then floor it.
The result will be disappointing ...especially if you're the guy with the 160hp engine.
but the guy with the stock motor will be laughing

Every time I've seen aluminum cyls they always are very expensive, I plan to turbocharge this engine so I was figuring on running forged pistons. I was just going to go with a set of JEs that come with cyls. For $50 more you can get them with aluminum cyls, which doesn't seem right?

http://vwparts.aircooled.net/Piston-Cylind...w9600t4b-je.htm

BUT if I can bore the stock 1.8 cyls out to 96mm, then I may just go with Kb pistons. The engine will be intercooled, water injected, and have megasquirt controlling it so getting the tune right will prevent detonation. I'll snap a pic of the cyl with rust on it to see what you guys think.

Yeah Dr. I'm keeping the trans now, so spend your money on whatever you want. That could buy a decent amount of beer Haha. I got the trans pretty clean in the parts washer yesterday, but there's still some spots that bother me. How do you normally clean them? Wire wheel, or some type of media blasting like walnut shells or something less aggressive?

The key word in that ad is "biral". That means that the cylinder liner is cast-iron (like the stock ones are), but that an aluminum sleeve and fins have been pressed on (or other methods used). The theory is that the iron wears better and doesn't need fancy coatings, while the aluminum transfers the heat away.

In practice, this can work quite well. It can also have problems; the joint between the aluminum sleeve and the iron liner can be less than perfect and can lead to troubles.

--DD

I'm assuming those biral cylinders are pressed together?

I read a lot about German cylinders, would the cylinders in my 1.8 be German cylinders? Assuming they are the originals. I will probably just send them out to get machined for some 96s.

My buddies dash as a stash of Corvair parts he said I can have. I know he had a fan, fan mount and the tins. I'm hoping he still has some of the pulleys and alternator mounts. I'm going to go horizontal cooling.

I am not even sure you can get Biral anymore.

LN engineering made them for a very short time, to make them to his standards it cost just short of nickies so it wasn't worth it.
Those are made in china, but John at aircooled.net wouldn't sell them if they stunk, he most likely QC a bunch and sends the bad ones back.


They should be a steel liner that is then cast in aluminium. Not pressed in.

Don't mix the T4 and corvair parts, for the cheapest route google "Joe Cali conversion".

I got joes manual. I like the look of the horizontal cooling fan and I have all the corvair parts but there's still a lot that needs done to get them to work. Why try to reinvent the wheel is what I should keep thinking lol.

Chris Foley's set up from Tangerine Racing is listed at $1599.
http://tangerineracing.com/engine.htm

Click on "more" in the description to see the setup. It is nice.

Ive came across that before. Honestly that's how I planned to do my shroud, but out of fiberglass. Ive done a lot of glassing so making the shroud wont be a problem at all. I want to retain the factory heat. I'm assuming your supposed to use all the lower tins with that setup? Would I be be able to use the factory thermostat?


I got the case split today. I made a stupid mistake, and broke a corner off. It shouldn't be a problem fixing it though.








Ive decided to build it as a 2.0. It wont cost very much more than having the current bottom end machined. Im hoping I can have my stock cylinders machined, one had some water laying in it and had some rust. Id like to go to 94mm.

Dr., know of any good machinists that youd trust with one of these engines?

Not locally. Budk may as he is a native and has had someone machine his stuff up here in the Canonsburg, PA area. PM him and ask.

Ok thanks I'll contact him.

It happens. One of our members just sold a broken case, same place ...

Click to view attachment

Yeah I saw that, I commented on it lol. I made a very amature mistake, I missed the bolt below the cylinders. After I got it out the case came apart no problem. Lesson learned. I've done a decent amount of heli arc welding and plan to buy a machine. It doesn't seem like it will be too difficult to repair.

Should I consider a dry sump for this engine? I really don't like to complicate things, especially the life blood of the engine, but running a turbo might make it needed? Any opinions?

The only way I will do it is with a cb pump, I don't feel comfortable running the oil pump off of a belt.

Mic'd the cylinders. There 96s! I wanted to punch the stock ones out to 94s but it looks like that won't happen. I guess I'll have to find some original cylinders that I can have bored.

My son's old autocross Ghia, a 2270, 4 wheel discs and "massaged" rear wheel wells:

Nice! Got any more pics of it? Id really like to see what he did to the wheel wells. What kind of suspension mods did he do?

Not going to be able to help much. There are a few more photos HERE. He posted a few build photos HERE, but unfortunately I didn't see any real detail, especially of the wheelwells. You can see in the photos that to get more tire under the car he adapted Honda wheels that are quite a bit wider but have a front wheel drive offset, so that probably won't be applicable to what you're doing. If you want more details you can PM him at The Samba site (he's OTO X58) and ask. Be sure to tell him I sent you.

Every time I see those photos I'm impressed all over again by the profound pile of crap he started out with and what he did with it. At 16! Our deal was I'd buy the parts and help him if he got stuck, but he'd do all the work. And he did. Good kid. And he ended up with a good car.

I read through his build, he sure did come a long way! He did a lot of the body mods that I like. I'm on the fence about the porsche head light conversion.

I got my case all cleaned up in the parts washer, but how do you normally clean the case? Bead blasting? Dipping it in a solution?

I got some Corvair parts for the horizontal cooling conversion. I will only use the fan, and maybe the part of the shroud to make a mold.

Dont bead blast. Elbow grease is how to clean the case unless it is apart when you do it. If you try to blast it you will get crap in the case and ruin stuff.

Ok, I got it pretty clean with just using a parts washer. Theres just a few places with some corrosion, and some where the oil has baked on to it. Im guessting alot of time with a wire wheel would clean it up. Ill have to do the same with the trans too.

You'll never get all the glass bead out of nooks and crannies. Then it will eventually shake loose into the oil stream, destroying all your internals.