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buck toenges
So I have had problems in the past with my 3.2 going through speed and reference sensors. I don't drive the car very often. I put less then 1k miles a year on the car. Today I was rearranging my garage for winter and needed to move the 914 and it wouldn't start. I just put in new sensors this spring. Is there any info out there that maybe my wiring is not right and some how the sensors get fried?
I am not worried about the dme relay, just wanted to know if the sensors can be fried by some electrical gremlin.
Thanks,
Buck
Cap'n Krusty
QUOTE(buck toenges @ Nov 24 2013, 11:19 AM) *

So I have had problems in the past with my 3.2 going through speed and reference sensors. I don't drive the car very often. I put less then 1k miles a year on the car. Today I was rearranging my garage for winter and needed to move the 914 and it wouldn't start. I just put in new sensors this spring. Is there any info out there that maybe my wiring is not right and some how the sensors get fried?
I am not worried about the dme relay, just wanted to know if the sensors can be fried by some electrical gremlin.
Thanks,
Buck


In all the years I've worked on Moronic cars, I think I've replaced one 911 CHT and maybe 8-10 (2 per car) 944/BMW crankshaft position/reference sensors. That number excludes Late VWs, where those things fail with astonishing regularity. MOST, if not all of the Porsche and BMW crank sensors failed because of mechanical (operator/tech error) rather than electrical failures. BMWs eat camchaft position sensors, but they don't fall into the category that you're concerned with.

The Cap'n
r_towle
You can ohm test the speed sensors.

CHT is a possibly culprit, but that can also be tested.
The plug is flaky for the Cht, so that might be faulty.

DME relay is the killer...
brp986s
QUOTE(Cap'n Krusty @ Nov 24 2013, 12:27 PM) *


In all the years I've worked on Moronic cars,
The Cap'n


Moronic or motronic laugh.gif . I think those sensors are pretty rugged. I had a couple that looked like got dragged on the road behind the car and still worked. But to confirm should be easy with a voltmeter. I don't have my manuals handy, but for sure there has to be continuity across the terminals. And I would think a decent meter would be able to detect a pulse when cranking the engine.

Fair chance the injectors are stuck. You may end up having to endure driving your 914-6 more frequently
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