Builing a 2.0l cammed port and polished with some dellortos. maybe thinking of a small turbo too but i have a tail shifter trans. I want to definitely replace it with something that will give me some smooth crisp shifts. any ideas? side shift, 930/915?

Building*....

A solid side-shift 901 will be plenty for what you're building. I'm running one behind my 3.6L and it has been holding up just fine for the last 6+ years.

Rebuild it for better performance, though. A clapped out, used box will likely deliver frustration.

For power levels of your T4 your 901 is fine.

For "Crisp Shifts", good luck. A 40 year old transmission does not shift like a modern car. If you want crisp shifts and a mid engine tranny that can mount a starter, be prepared to spend big money...
http://mendeolamotors.com/trans-proto/inde...2&Itemid=65

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901 side shift with updated linkage below (spherical firewall bushing, u-joints and multiple bronze bushings at the side shift console). Use a simple throw reduction for the shifter and call it a day.

I had a rebuilt with stock, new bushings and a short shift and it would shock people how well it operated. Cheap and easy compared to other options.

Here's a few pic's of my modifications plus a J West shifter , Bill D.
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Eric
When you say "updated linkage below", what are you referring to? Do you sell these goodies?

JWest used to sell a linkage kit for 914's. They stopped (still sell a renshifter) and Chris Folley at tangerine racing now makes a really nice one. http://www.tangerineracing.com/transmission.htm

I'm using the old j west system below. Basically what Chris is selling in the link Mark posted. Similar to what Bill posted above. Worth every penny Chris is charging.

The linkage below is where all of the slop is. The short shifters are basically reduction devices. I wanted a stock look and a hand throttle so I retained the stock shifter and used the simplest of the reduction devices. The Weltmeister.

looks freakin awesome!!!

Bill, I had one issue with my JWest install. The side shift console bushing plate is aluminum and would bind as I torqued the fasteners to spec. The unit cones with shims to accommodate this flex but it took a "lot" of trial and error and even shims cut in 1/2.

Is your bushing plate steel or aluminum? I was thinking steel wouldn't flex and i need to put another one of these together.

Sorry for the

I do not know that anyone has ever installed anything other than a 901 behind a type4 ???

KEP offers one kit for the type4 engine.

I wonder if a suby awd trans converted to 2wd could even feasibly be coupled to a type4 ??

I guess one would have to ask KEP.

http://www.kennedyenginc.com/Pages/EngineOptionList4cyl.aspx

Our aluminum bushing block doesn't flex.

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My Dr. Evil-rebuilt 901 is holding up great paired with a stock LS1 V-8. I never abuse it with drop-clutch starts, which I'm sure helps!

Racer Chris, I am VERY tempted by your shift upgrade kit. My side shifter has pretty good action already (fresh plastic stock bushings), but it could be further optimized.

Thanks for the replies guys! looks like I'm going to look for a sideshiifting trans. I'm going to have to look for a new motor mount brace too. What about the linkage at the firewall. I know its different right. what am I going to have to do there?

there are several online parts diagrams

http://www.porsche.com/usa/accessoriesands...partscatalogue/

http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/p...e_914_parts.php

but you can't use any linkage from tail shift for side shift.

you'll need a shifter, tunnel rod, engine bay rod, etc.

you can use whatever exhaust you have (1.7/1.8/2.0) on your 2.0 but if you decide you want 2.0 style exhaust, you need to change everything there too.

are you doing fuel injection or carbs? what cam you using?

Nice design, that added web will indeed make it more rigid.

Eric, I machined that from a solid block of steel ( I won't do that again ) , I think I would bend a piece of 1/4-5/16 strap metal (flat stock) with a torch ,give enough length so that you can put the cover on, I machined mine then mounted it 3 bolts , I scribed a circle through the console tab with out the bushing ,then I removed the bracket and put hole in (that way it slides through the original console ear) I then put the hole on the other side , I used two original console bushings to make it easier in the future to find and change , I hope this helps Bill D.

here's a couple more pic's
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my version of similar:

All you need is a stock side shift done right. My LE will shift with any of these others. Evil has driven it.

a rebuilt trans with new bushings isn't bad and will shift well.

of course an AJRS shifter (or rennshifter) with delrin bushings, brass bushings, apex bushings, an extended cup, and double supported shift console on the back only makes shifting better.

Bill and Chris and Andy will probably agree as well. Those linkage mods down below are flat out amazing. I didn't have many "off statute" modifications done to my car but this is by far one if the best I did.

I have 0 experience with these mods, but I am interested Some trustworthy and knowledgeable folks recommending them makes me feel confident that they are worth it. I think I will have to try it on mine.......when Scotty finishes with the body stuff.

You've got a ton of time to research!

Brant , does the extended cup aid in the motion , as in increasing the effect at the console lever ?? You have a well executed mod , just curious about the cup extention, is it a " feelable " effect ??

Jack

Har har

I do wish I did. I hope I have something similar to tweak with and obsess over when I am your age. You know, old.

When the shift rod twists at the rear console, the cup bushing extends out of the cup until a third of its surface is unsupported. We did this mod along with multiple others at the same time.
(Version 1 of our shift rod had a brass bushing'd stock knuckle joint turned 90 degrees)

The upgrades made an improvement in shifting but multiple things were changed at once and all helped. I can't say how much if that was due to the cup alone.

That's because the cast piece you're using isn't the shift rod head for a sideshift trans.
Its the tailshift rod head that goes under the shift lever in the cockpit.
The two look identical but the tailshifter part is shorter.

I will check on that and appreciate the tip
but I don't think I used the wrong one.
we had this piece from a side shift car

but good to check
do you know the stock length of an unmodified SS cup?
our modified piece is longer than any SS cup stock

The way I know about this is that I used a tailshift piece once without realizing it and had trouble at the track.
I destroyed a couple of cup bushings before I discovered that the bushing was coming partway out of the bore.
I had to find a suitable extension and weld it on at the track to successfully finish the weekend.
Here's a measurement of the stock sideshift piece.
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