Not bad, took about 90 mins. I took my time.
Had a barley pop

Here's the input shaft seal.

KT

here's the speedo drive with it's o-ring.

No problem here.

The drive flange's were a bit trickier.
You have to wedge a bar between two temporary bolts to keep it from turning on you.

Here's the seal.

I pryed it out with a big screwdriver. ( carefully )

When I set the new seals in, I gently tapped them into place using a large socket and a hammer working in a circlular motion.

No problem. Torque the bolts to 25-29 ft pounds. ( I went 28 )

KT

Here's where I had a little trouble.

The shifter console o- ring was simple, it's the roll pin removal on the control shaft.

I'll have it pressed out in the morning.

I'm glad I did this.

KT

If by press it out you mean bring it to my house, then yes. I have what you need to remove that nasty pin.

What time do you get up?

I use a large pin punch. Home depot sells a set which work well for varius jobs.

Again, use a vise to hold the shift console on the sides, not around the cast shaft area. A Vise will deform the shaft area.

James

That trans looked really clean. All the seals looked ok so where was it leaking?? Was this preventive maintiance??

Did this yesterday myself. The shift selector seal was a bitch to get out. Have fun!

I hope you removed the pin on the BOTTOM of the shift console and not the top.

The roll pin in the top of the shaft seems to be a one use item. When you remove it and put it back, it is notorious for shearing off inside the transmission. BTDT. In the hills of Austin. Since then, I always pull the bottom pin... it's much easier to replace.

Coming out of the shed???????

Is that anything like coming out of the closet- except it involves animals?

Ken

QUOTE

That trans looked really clean.

Thanks, I spent some time getting all the garbage off it yesterday. I think every seal was leaking.

QUOTE

BOTTOM of the shift console and not the top.

Thanks for the advice. Will do.

QUOTE

Have fun!

QUOTE

A Vise will deform the shaft area.

Thanks James!


I'm on my way.

KT

QUOTE

anything like coming out of the closet

KT

Hey Trekkor

Looks like you skipped an easy one. The big o-ring that goes around the differential cover plate (yes, the big one on the passenger side with 10 or so nuts holding it on). Remove the passenger side outdrive again, then all of those nuts and pull off the cover. A big o-ring goes around the O.D. of the plate. Besides, you wouldn't want to miss out on a chance to peek at the diff - not that you need to inspect it - but just fun to see how stuff works.

Demick

...and like James said - you don't need a press to get out the roll pin. Just use a hammer and punch. Comes out quite easily.

Demick

Thanks Demick, I'll look for that o-ring today as well.

I replaced all of these seals when I changed my transmission a year ago. I am getting some minor leakage where the shifter console bolts to the transmission case. Its going to be a pain to repair now that the trans is full of Swepco. You might want to use some kind of non hardening sealer on the shifter console and on the speedo drive.

Done...Big o-ring, too.

Everything looks good.

KT

The roll pins are easily pressed out with a vise and the collection of bolts and sockets you probably have lying around your bench. One of my roll pins was actually in two pieces when it came out, I am glad I replaced it. They can wear too and will make the shift rod ends wobble on the shaft.

You're looking pale.

And your tranny fluid doesn't look blue.

I don't get out much and it's Quaker State 90wt.