I think your lack of the 90 turn is only going to make it better

it worked somewhat...
I dropped my trans oil 25degree's..
but another 15-20 when I moved my intake up the the upper back of the passenger side window. I built another scoop for the new location and need to take pictures soon.

I also ran with the engine lid off for testing purposes.
going to build a new engine lid next weekend that accomodates the feeder hose.

I should update

Click to view attachment
Remarkably similar to the P51 belly scoop.
It worked because of what followed,a low pressure area.
A RR Merlin had to dissipate a lot of heat,and the solution was low drag.

I was under the impression that the tumbling air under the cylinder heads, caused by the plastic flaps, was important for head cooling. By adding this ducting here under the 3/4 bank are you not exacerbating the cooling challenges to cylinder 3?

I may not be getting a clear understanding of the layout from the pictures.

Miguel

I removed those flaps a while ago. They were falling off with the rust I had there. I've run the car for a while now and my head temp is fine. I will monitoring head temps with the tubing there. I guess it could run up a bit.
See you next Sunday.
Shane

Yeah man I am stoked!! Watching everyone race this weekend was frustrating!

you have a great bunch of teeners out there...
time to think about going wheel to wheel in a vintage club

New bumper exit. I think I've been building up air behind the cooler in the past. Sebring next weekend with Seabird. I see if this works out. Cant hurt, right?

Shane that screening reduces airflow about 30 percent...severs no real purpose either.

My dad said the same thing. Its holding the bumper together. I'll try something else!
Thanks for the advise.

Took the screen off and added brackets to hold the bumper in place.

Shane,

in the olden days when 914's ruled the local club race scene here in colorado...

most guys cut about the bottom 2/3rds of the rear bumper off.... they even trimmed the sheet metal about 6 inches behind the bumper...

worth considering.
it allows engine air to better escape
think of it as dropping the rear valance to let more air out... only the next step.

definitely helps with engine cooling, and also helps reduce aero drag... plus it would also help with your cooler exit

brant

I was at it with my cooler today too. Added a ducting from the fan in the front valance back to the cooler and added to Chris's shroud to scoop more air from the under car stream.

I ended up removing the flap on the passenger side like you did.

Can't wait till next weekend! I am going to pit with the Condor crew by turn 17, do you mind moving down that way? Going to try to get there early.

Miguel

Brant,
Would you change anything on your oil cooler set up you have now?
Crossflow cooler?
Hood exit?
After this weekend at Sebring I'm going to start engineering front cooling.
Shane

Hey Miguel,
If my cooler doesn't work to my liking this weekend then front cooler it is. Did you figure out your pressure drop? I wonder if you had enough oil in your car. When I first installed my accusump I had problems with "knowing" my oil level.

Looking forward to seeing your new duct work.

I'll be pitting with my corvette buddy. I'm bringing my bike, I'll be down there all day!

Shane

Cool, I am going to try and bring mine too.

Oil, maybe. Hopefully.

It looks like I had the perfect storm. We were not able to find any single issue big enough to say definitively this was it. The pre-charge on the accusump was low, 2psi. I had reconnected the breather hose from the stove pipe to the catch can and I think this was causing an over pressure situation in the crank. Which in turn pushed oil to the heads and in to the catch can over filling it and spilling out. And the smaller secondary relief valve was as rusty as the main one.

I know I lost some oil, maybe the +1 quart that I was over filled, but at the end of the day the dip stick still read full so I was not critically low.

I drained the oil check the accusump pre-charge. Checked for leaks on the air side, held 60 psi for 8 hours. Bleed down the 60 psi to 10 psi and refilled the oil system.

There was a question about the tuna can pick up and the pick up tube to case o-rings but those checked out.

Chris sent me a new catch can in a giffy and got it installed yesterday. I love his customer support!

Replaced the pressure relief piston. But I am going to bring a rig to jamb it closed if the problem persists.

I am not happy about not finding a specific failure point and going back to the track with out getting a chance to test it but I don't have much of a choice. Need to find a big empty parking lot at some point.

Shrug.

Miguel

I do think that frontal air with an unrestricted and even assisted exit is the best. So. Hood exit is the best
I have one 914 with a hood exit and it cooled well even with a modified 4

AN-12 by the way.

I won't change my orange car as a hood exit is not allowed in vintage

here is my EX race car...
the cooling is great
I have repeated this story to death...
but I ran the same cooler with 3 different air exits

same spec motors over a 10 year period of w2w
each time I improved the air exit I dropped another 10-20F from the oil temp
through the hood was definitely the most effective and that was with the same tiny earls cooler on all versions

Update on this problem.
I added a thicker cork gasket from 914rubber on the stock oil baffle. It worked out great. No pooling now.

Oil cooler update. (so far)
Working on the plumbing next.
Wondering if anyone has used the heater channels with any success? Think I can get two -12 lines in there?
Here's what I got done so far....

I did the Heater Channels - worked out pretty good, a lot of Track Action. I'll have to dig out some pictures

Click to view attachment

I used a hole saw to create an opening at the inside front of the long where the heater tube has a metal elbow going up through the top of the long.
Instead of going up through the elbow, both -12 lines come into the passenger footwell from the side of the long, then enter a hole at the front of the footwell into the reinforcing channel below the gas tank, out through another hole into the front trunk and forward to the cooler.
I'll see if I have any pictures.

I got both lines to work. Thanks guys.

Is there any downside to running them as Shane has pictured? Specifically, is it okay to have the lines turn straight up, only to run back down to the cooler in the front?

I think it works ok that way but there is a better path.

Holesaw through the side of the inner long (black circle) and through the metal elbow.
Cut through the firewall at the base (black square), into the little channel below the tank, and through the other side into the front trunk. There's room for both -12 lines.
Click to view attachment

Enough for water lines too?

Two dash 12 oil lines will barely fit, maybe with enough room for a dash 6 hose or two but that's it.

2 -12 are tight. It would be hard to get the next size up in there.
I studied my potential paths and like this one the most, I didn't want the lines to go under my fuel cell.
One benefit to my routing is the oil cooler doesn't drain back into the case.

George, you won't be happy till that car is Suby powered!!