Going to have to overhaul the A/C on my '71 to get it back in operation. May have to replace the compressor. So was wondering if there is any advantage to changing over to something like a Sanden compressor. Seems that it would be smaller and lighter than the original, not to mention more efficent. Anyone make a conversion kit (brackets, etc)?

tom...

I think the Sanden SD 508 is the most used replacement compressor for our applications. I'm not absolutely sure, but it looks like this adapter plate would do the trick:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAP...&category=33543

I assume that you plan on replacing the hoses, accumulator, and filters. The original (dealer installed) evap and condensing coils were designed for R-12, and since the only refrigerant you can purchase without a license is R-134A (less efficient than R-12) there may be some issues with the temp differential (how cold your outlet temp gets, especially at idle).

I'm going to be using a Sanden SD 508 in my '73 that was built for use with R-12, and use "Hot Shot" (R-414B) as the refrigerant (drop-in replacement for R-12). I've serviced several cars originally equipped for R-12 (and a couple of beer coolers at a local bar) with R-414B, and was totally impressed with the results. It's actually more efficient than R-12 (lower pressure), and I've got a 25lb. can sitting in my garage .


Kevin

I used a rotary compressor conversion kit for a Type-IV engine from IceAC Ice AC. The compressor and parts were an absolute bolt on. I had the lines converted to barrier hose by the local AC shop, and put new R-134A compatible o-rings and a dryer on the car. The system is a DPD system, and on a 100+ day it will freeze you out of the car.


Call IceAC and ask about the kit. It's not listed on the website.

QUOTE (ClayPerrine @ Jan 2 2005, 03:56 PM)

I used a rotary compressor conversion kit for a Type-IV engine from IceAC Ice AC. The compressor and parts were an absolute bolt on. I had the lines converted to barrier hose by the local AC shop, and put new R-134A compatible o-rings and a dryer on the car. The system is a DPD system, and on a 100+ day it will freeze you out of the car. Call IceAC and ask about the kit. It's not listed on the website.

Well there you go, coil efficiency is apparently not a problem on a R-12/R-134A conversion...good to know!


Kevin

QUOTE (Special_K @ Jan 2 2005, 06:29 PM)

Well there you go, coil efficiency is apparently not a problem on a R-12/R-134A conversion...good to know! Kevin

I would not say that.. but I think that the location of the condenser, and the over engineering that was done in the early 70s when the AC was designed with to work correctly with the ineffecient York two-lung compressor makes it work well. Modern cars probably would not work as well. They had less margins desinged into the system.

I am switching my compressor while I have the engine out. The Sanden I bought is for R-12 so I plan on using a R-12 replacement. I bought the mount kit on Ebay, it is for a 80's BMW 320. Looks like I will have to redrill some holes but it was cheap. You could make your own adapter out of angle iron. Here is a photo of my parts:

Prices???

The compressor was $100.00 & the mount kit was $15.00.

The re-hose is probably going to be the most expensive part. You can buy the hose & fittings, then mock it up. Remove it and take it to an A/C shop to have the ends crimped.

Thanks guys, appreciate the input. Here in Texas it is more important to have A/C than heat

Anyother thoughts out there?

tom...

During my design and installation I found the condenser is the problem with R134 systems not getting low evap temps. I am running a 508 with R134, original condenser, evap, and blower.

I upgraded the condenser fan after discovering the condenser was the issue.It helped some but not the 100% solution to cold temps. You can get a new parallel flow condenser for around $120 that should give you low 30's for vent temps with R134.

As mentioned above, make sure you replace the drier, hoses, and the expansion valve ($30).

If you convert to R134 and just replace the condenser fan (and items above) you should have vent temps in the 40's (Okay but not like a new car). This is the set up I have now and it worked well into the 90's in August. It was just too the edge off on the way home.

My next upgrade will be the parallel flow condenser that will get the temps into the low 30's.


If needed I can make A/C hoses for you. I installed one fitting on the hose (in my shop) and the routed the hose through the car. After all the hoses where routed I installed the last few fitting while the hoses were in the car.

Best of luck

Kerry,
I am not familure with a parallel flow condenser. Can you provide some info or a link? Any idea of the cost?

tom...

Price is not that bad depending on the size $100-$120 (Shipped) should get you one. Just dig around on the net for the best prices. Measure your current condenser and see if you have room to go alittle bigger. I couldn't find a condenser the same size as the original one but their are some close (go larger not smaller on the total SF of face area).

If needed I can help track down a condenser if you get stuck. The image is small but look at the flow arrows. That will give you an idea on the flow changes.

How many of us have A/C? I would love to see what the set-up looks like, anyone have some pics.