right on it's nose. for starters the linkage was on the wrong end of the carbs. at least for me. the draw was equal at ldle. did the back off the pass side idle speed screw and the pass side fell about one half compared to the dr side. tried to adjust the pass side droplink with my head upside down and both hands jammed behind the pass carb. OWWW, my neck. enough for the day. shower, couch, aspirin, heating pad. apparently the previous mechanic thought the best way to ensure there were no vacuum leaks was to use cut steel lock washers everywhere and continue to tighten every nut to the point i had to lean on them a bit to loosen. filthy, filthy, filthy. gaskets were garbage. every one had to be scraped to get them off most surfaces after phase one of the exterior cleaning.

shiny. had to swap the arms for the drop links end to end so they worked with the linkage going to the front of the carbs. replaced the idle air mixture screw o-rings, hard and squished flat, and went thru the initial baseline setup. note the hi-tech bamboo measurement tool for the correct settings for the accelerator pump rods. Triad linkage is in temporarily place and will button it up tomorrow. drop links in the open out front. right where i like them.

asdf

It is amazing what you find sometimes. Now I am not saying that someone won't come back and look at some of my repairs and wonder why I did certain things. But if you check my bolts they will at least be all metric and the appropriate gaskets used. We all have made repairs that are temporary in nature and taken a lot of time to get back to them but it seems like just when you think you have seen it all, then something new pops up.

Kevin I will drop mine off to you next week for a QC check and will include the heating pad!

nothing is 'in place' just yet. have get shorter shouldered bolts that serve as the bar pivots and and lock the side to side movement of the bar helping to keep the angularity of the drop links consistent. more on that later. just for drill i'll pull the idle jets, blow them and their passageways out. easier now than when all is said and done. i'll note the current jetting too. fuel lines are not to my liking. you can see the old braided lines and the slotted clamps in the first picture. has a facet pump which i plan on replacing along with the filter and will order new Beru 2.0 plug wires from the bird to replace the shit fit bosch units.

facet pump. no regulator. .

Good job, that looks amazing. Keep going.
Craig at CAMP

Nice work Obi-Wan!

just a temp installed picture. drop links are near vertical forward and have the same slight outboard angle. you can see the compartment test clean on the driver's side. ordered the Berus and a 3 1/2# rotary pump. going to straighten out the rat's nest of coil wires too.

running a little rich? old facet, old lines, old filter. NO fp regulator. the nasty filter was after the pump. the old plugs prob had 5# of torque on them.

Don't know if you sorted it out yet or not...but mine had the same issue until I got my jetting correct. I started out with too lead on the idle and too fat on the mains..the car would run but stumble/hesitate off of idle...also wide open at lower RPM caused a flubbering coughing chocking kind of response.

What finally got my sorted was determining how far out my idle mixture screws ended up, with 55's they basically were almost unscrewed completely...with 60's they were about 2 1/2 turns out..but wiht 65s they were just right at about 3/4-1 turn out when finally adjusted. once I had idle fixed, it went on to the mains, starting at 150s then switched to 145 and notice a big improvement and when finally swithing to 140, all my problems went away. now it idles steady and reliably...pulls like a freight train off idle all the way to redline. My problem was a too lean idle condition and too rich mains, basically flooding when coming off idle...the rich mains and the squirt of the accelerator pump.

Not saying these jet settings are for your engine, but I think you'll also beneft from trying jetting.

My engine 2270 -stock distributor set at 34degrees at 3500rpm, dual 44idf final jets 65, 140, 200

thanks! first culprit was the unregulated facet fuel pump. 2nd was shoddy/poorly set linkage. by "stock", what distributor are you running?

My carbs would not come off idle smoothly at all. I finally found an idle jet size that worked. Buy a few different sizes and try them. Idle jets aren't hard to change and if you do it often enough it's pretty easy.